Anyone know this car?
Discussion
I've got a database of UK Monaros with about 370 registrations now and that one is new to me. Which only says the owner isn't posting photos online, and it hasn't been spotted by somebody else either.
You've probably done the same research but I can only go by public records: MOT history pretty clean, previous owner has had since for at least 7 years and it's done very few miles in that time, so clearly been an occasional use toy. None of that says much about it's condition but it's encouraging at least.
66k miles is just under the average of 73.5k for a black VZ VXR. The registration date is amongst the very first (I'm only aware of one 54 plate 6 litre model), presumably most of the original buyers arranged to take the car with the then new 05 plate.
Best to view it, take photos, post here and knowledgeable members can point out anything they can see. Worst problems are often not visible though.
You've probably done the same research but I can only go by public records: MOT history pretty clean, previous owner has had since for at least 7 years and it's done very few miles in that time, so clearly been an occasional use toy. None of that says much about it's condition but it's encouraging at least.
66k miles is just under the average of 73.5k for a black VZ VXR. The registration date is amongst the very first (I'm only aware of one 54 plate 6 litre model), presumably most of the original buyers arranged to take the car with the then new 05 plate.
Best to view it, take photos, post here and knowledgeable members can point out anything they can see. Worst problems are often not visible though.
Edited by TheWidget on Tuesday 7th June 23:18
I've got the car now, chassis rails are perfect, the carpets are bone dry and apart from the rear silencers that have been deleted it's mod free. It drives really well considering its age. The negatives are it needs some paint to the usual areas of bumper and bonnet followed by a good machine polish. Interior needs a repair to the rear seats at the top as the stitching has burst due to shrinkage, I seem to remember a similar thing happening to my Commodore. So, I'm in the market for a rear seat and two headrests.
The seats are out and stripped, unfortunately the leather has been allowed to dry out and is virtually unworkable. A local trimmer recommended replacement of several panels to guarantee the repair. I've already started feeding the flesh side of the leather in the hope it softens up enough to become workable.
LC36 said:
I've got the car now, chassis rails are perfect, the carpets are bone dry and apart from the rear silencers that have been deleted it's mod free. It drives really well considering its age. The negatives are it needs some paint to the usual areas of bumper and bonnet followed by a good machine polish. Interior needs a repair to the rear seats at the top as the stitching has burst due to shrinkage, I seem to remember a similar thing happening to my Commodore. So, I'm in the market for a rear seat and two headrests.
I used to run my own detailing business and have a Ro so know the paint on these backwards. If you are anywhere near Warks I could give you an idea on fair cost to detail it professionallyTheWidget said:
I'm about to try machine polishing my black Ro, swirl marks are awful. Will probably avoid the bonnet & bumper as they're chipped enough to warrant respraying, but if you've any tips to share for others areas, be kind and share. 
It's where to start and it all depends on the results you want. Firstly wash, snow foam, dry, clay bar, ipa wipe down...then..what machine are you using ie D/A or Rotary?
Then its down to compounds and what level of cut needed, followed by pad selection. Normally I start with a medium pad and medium compound if it's a car I haven't worked with before, do a few passes and see how the paint reacts. Certain rules of thumb apply. Honda's (super soft paint) Mercs (hard as a diamond)
GM paint I've found to be somewhere in between hard and soft.
Once you've got the correction level you are looking for from your compounding work, then its polish time. Here I normally go softer pad and a polish with a lighter cut (even polishes have varying degrees of cut) Here you are trying to burnish and polish and add depth and a richness into the shine, so a step worth getting right.
After this there is the seal/wax process. Now this one is utterly subjective. Some like high carnuba content wax, some like synthetic waxes, some like ceramic protection. Me I go for the wax I feel is best for the car. This for me has taken years of practice and can't be taught but only a combo of trial and error and personal choice.
Then there is show car prep and here you are into a level of detail and process that few will either have the time, patience, experience or courage to do as it normally involves wet flatting and that is a process that generally isn't a good idea to try on your own car unless you are happy to make some big mistakes on.
As an example, I wet flatted my Ro when I bought it and did somewhere in the region of 140 hours of work to get it to where it is, which is show ready. This is almost every single mark, blemish and bit of orange peel removed. The bonnet for instance took me 2 days and about 12 hours work. That is the stark difference between detailing a car and a show prepping one!
Hope that helps a bit
Edited by 99PBATR on Monday 20th June 08:44
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