Suspension Knock
Discussion
Suspension question Monaro 6.0 car is fine when driving but when manouvering/parking into tight space and going from lock to lock I'm getting some metallic clonks from front suspension, recently changed the front radius arm bushes to Pedders.
Just wondering if now its been driven a while everything now needs a retorque? Or anybody had similar issues?
Saw some info on LS1 forum about front springs rubbing on struts but don't think it's that will have a look over at weekend.
Just wondering if now its been driven a while everything now needs a retorque? Or anybody had similar issues?
Saw some info on LS1 forum about front springs rubbing on struts but don't think it's that will have a look over at weekend.
It really depends on how original the suspension is. Even if your car was a low mileage example we now have to consider age related issues.
I remember Monkfish saying that anything over 30.000 miles on a Monaro and it will be past its best.
Lift up the bonnet and check the gap between the top of the inner wing and the disc on top of the suspension strut. The gap needs to be no more than a few millimetres. If you have a large gap then new top mouths are needed, these do fail regularly
I think Whiteline make an uprated version which hopefully will last for quite sometime.
If you go that far you might as well replace the lot, Struts, springs, top bearings and drop links, don't forget the bottom ball joints and lower control arm bushings.
If these need to be replaced you can buy a complete lower control arm already fitted with a new ball joint and bushings, again these are from whiteline, note these are marked for left and right fitting.
Check the steering rack and track rod ends for play together with the anti roll bar rubbers just in case.
That should keep you busy for a while.....then start on the rear suspension
I remember Monkfish saying that anything over 30.000 miles on a Monaro and it will be past its best.
Lift up the bonnet and check the gap between the top of the inner wing and the disc on top of the suspension strut. The gap needs to be no more than a few millimetres. If you have a large gap then new top mouths are needed, these do fail regularly
I think Whiteline make an uprated version which hopefully will last for quite sometime.If you go that far you might as well replace the lot, Struts, springs, top bearings and drop links, don't forget the bottom ball joints and lower control arm bushings.
If these need to be replaced you can buy a complete lower control arm already fitted with a new ball joint and bushings, again these are from whiteline, note these are marked for left and right fitting.
Check the steering rack and track rod ends for play together with the anti roll bar rubbers just in case.
That should keep you busy for a while.....then start on the rear suspension
Edited by mfp4073 on Friday 30th July 08:39
Many thanks, yes I replaced the top mounts couple of years ago about 8000 miles car has done 49k lower arms have Pedders poly bushes where the radius arm fits and poly bushes on front of radius arms, ball joints are fine and drop links are also pedders bushed, will see what I find at the weekend.
The suspension on these cars is nice and simple so any decent garage will be able to help you.
The top mount bearings are prone to failure and noise as are the mounts.
Otherwise as suggested already, look at ball joints including track rod ends, ARB bushes etc..
And keep us posted on your findings!
The top mount bearings are prone to failure and noise as are the mounts.
Otherwise as suggested already, look at ball joints including track rod ends, ARB bushes etc..
And keep us posted on your findings!
Well I checked over at the weekend, found n/s top mount top plate needed a tighten up plus retightened all other suspension bolts but main issue was the Pedders drop link bushes had dried out so cleaned up and regreased so far seems all good again.
But have noticed when stationary and going from lock to lock as I reach full lock the car lifts slightly on that side, normal???
But have noticed when stationary and going from lock to lock as I reach full lock the car lifts slightly on that side, normal???
Its good to hear you have sorted out your front suspension problem. However I'm stuck with your second issue.
If the car is stationary and you turn the steering from lock to lock you will hear the power steering pump working and maybe the engine revs will drop as the pump is using engine power.
Ive spent ages going over this and I'm struggling to think of something that would cause the car to lift slightly when you go from lock to lock.
The best I can come up with is a possibility of the steering rack moving slightly when it's under strain. Check all the mounting bolts and also the single rubber busing on the rack.
Best of luck.
John.
If the car is stationary and you turn the steering from lock to lock you will hear the power steering pump working and maybe the engine revs will drop as the pump is using engine power.
Ive spent ages going over this and I'm struggling to think of something that would cause the car to lift slightly when you go from lock to lock.
The best I can come up with is a possibility of the steering rack moving slightly when it's under strain. Check all the mounting bolts and also the single rubber busing on the rack.
Best of luck.
John.
Edited by mfp4073 on Thursday 5th August 07:34
Edited by mfp4073 on Thursday 5th August 08:36
jelevents said:
Well I checked over at the weekend, found n/s top mount top plate needed a tighten up plus retightened all other suspension bolts but main issue was the Pedders drop link bushes had dried out so cleaned up and regreased so far seems all good again.
But have noticed when stationary and going from lock to lock as I reach full lock the car lifts slightly on that side, normal???
Glad you've sorted the knock.But have noticed when stationary and going from lock to lock as I reach full lock the car lifts slightly on that side, normal???
I'd say regarding the other issue, you are over thinking things. As you move from lock to lock, the front of the car will move somewhat, the slight lift could just be due to the camber angle changing at the wheels.
Lincsls1 said:
Glad you've sorted the knock.
I'd say regarding the other issue, you are over thinking things. As you move from lock to lock, the front of the car will move somewhat, the slight lift could just be due to the camber angle changing at the wheels.
I'd say regarding the other issue, you are over thinking things. As you move from lock to lock, the front of the car will move somewhat, the slight lift could just be due to the camber angle changing at the wheels.
Good point, the change in camber angle....I never thought of that one 
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