monaro rear sub frame suspension

[dan mugglestone]

Im one of those guys that likes to get as many jobs done while its in pieces .
Have a full polybush set for the rear inc subframe, anti roll , and trailing arms.
I aim to drop the whole lot ie subframe with the diff , drive shafts and arms in one go ( 2 poster plus transmission jack )
Basically the whole exhaust is being replaced at the same time , Also a lot of sand blasting rust proofing etc.

What I want to know is with all this lot on the deck what else should i replace while I am there?.
Thinking rear wheel bearings ?? and some seals ( diff g/box) ?? any other recommendations???

Thanks Dan

[mfp4073]

That's a lot of If I was going that far I would replace the following,
Brake and fuel lines,
Springs and shocks,
Both half shafts,
Polybush everything other than the inner swing arms, use standard bushings,
Both toe links
Propshaft centre bearing
If the diff is in good shape I would be tempted to leave it alone, failing that a full rebuild with new seals and bearings....and maybe a Wavetrc LSD.
I would consider changing the wheel bearings.
Discs and pads if required,
Check your credit card
Follow that lot with a full alignment and you shoul be good to go
I don't want to sound too but...If you have the car up in the air on a two post lift you are obviously removing a substantial amount of weight off the rear end, I doubt the car would actually nose dive off the lift but you never know
I've bound to have missed out something but that's your basics.

John

Edited by mfp4073 on Tuesday 5th January 11:31

[Lincsls1]

Prepare for a divorce!

[mfp4073]

Lincsls1 said:

Prepare for a divorce!

Yes I did consider mentioning that....but we can only advise so much on this forum.

[fred bloggs]

The large bolts holding the subframe to body are torque to yield, (in case you did'nt know) so you'lll need them .

[mfp4073]

fred bloggs said:

The large bolts holding the subframe to body are torque to yield, (in case you did'nt know) so you'lll need them .

I told you I would forget something
nothing like having the subframe coming off at high speed

[dan mugglestone]

Cheers John /Fred
Did brake lines last year with disc and pads .
Springs and shocks look fairly easy job on there own so will leave that until ive recovered financially.
Propshaft bearing was done around 10'000 ago.
Have all bushes poly and oe for the back end ( front just been done )

I do have the misting around the diff /prop think this is a seal ?

However will add the following
Fuel line
Wheel Bearing
Sub frame main bolts

toe links and half shafts are they a big job normally with subframe still fitted??




And the thought of removing that much weight was a "keep me awake moment" last night so will take it up as close to the front as i can

[Lincsls1]

dan mugglestone said:

Cheers John /Fred

I do have the misting around the diff /prop think this is a seal ?

toe links and half shafts are they a big job normally with subframe still fitted??

Yes, it will be a diff seal.
Half shafts are really easy to change even with subframe fitted.
Not 100% sure, but think still easy job to change tow links with it fitted.

[dan mugglestone]

Lincsls1 said:

dan mugglestone said:

Cheers John /Fred

I do have the misting around the diff /prop think this is a seal ?

toe links and half shafts are they a big job normally with subframe still fitted??

Yes, it will be a diff seal.
Half shafts are really easy to change even with subframe fitted.
Not 100% sure, but think still easy job to change tow links with it fitted.

However will add the following
Fuel line
Wheel Bearing
Sub frame main bolts

and diff seal. ( main seal?? )

[Lincsls1]

Its not possible to say which diff seal it is without having a proper look.
It could be the input seal or either of the output seals.
Or could be leaking from the gasket/seal that seals the casing - much less likely.
If its too messy under there, a good steam clean followed by a run and re-inspection should find the source.
I'd guess input/output seals.

[SturdyHSV]

Be interested to hear how you get on replacing the wheel bearings. They're pressed in to the suspension arm and are a proper bd.

[dan mugglestone]

SturdyHSV said:

Be interested to hear how you get on replacing the wheel bearings. They're pressed in to the suspension arm and are a proper bd.

Thats what i heard James , Its kind of why its one of those parts that although working perfectly fine now might be easier with a lot of stuff off the back end??.

buying your exhaust was the tip of the ice berg once i get started !

[wozzza]

If doing the rear bearings. Don't pay the monaro tax, it's the same as a calibra rear bearing and be had much cheaper. Used them on my own car.

[vxr2010]

monaro rear wheel bearings are easy to do and can be done in situ , there should be a post on it in the faq section , it took me about 45 mins to do last time

[dan mugglestone]

Thanks guys will look up the calibra part numbers . Im on 71k miles at the moment so they must be nearly done?

[Lincsls1]

dan mugglestone said:

Thanks guys will look up the calibra part numbers . Im on 71k miles at the moment so they must be nearly done?

Not at all. Quite capable of far more than that. However, if dropping it all, then it will be easier to change them than when on the car.
That being said, my local garage changed in situ without any problem.

[SturdyHSV]

Yeah they're the same as the Calibra bearings so cheap as chips, the Ute bearings were an absolute PITA and the Ro is the same design so surprised it's being branded an easy job, perhaps there's a technique or mystery tool that makes it easier.

Walkinshaw want 6 hours labour to do one I think it was and you'd assume they've done a few...

[vxr2010]

rear bearings on the monaro best done in situ , just need a decent bearing pulling kit to do it , worth a good squirt of wd40 a few times or days before you do it , i had to do my rear ute bearings on my 53 plate , the cost of walkinsaw is they strip it all off to change it

[vxr2010]

it’s like a lot of car jobs first time you do it always takes the longest , second time on the other bearing did not take very long

[SturdyHSV]

vxr2010 said:

rear bearings on the monaro best done in situ , just need a decent bearing pulling kit to do it , worth a good squirt of wd40 a few times or days before you do it , i had to do my rear ute bearings on my 53 plate , the cost of walkinsaw is they strip it all off to change it

I may pick your brains for a suitable bearing puller as and when the Monaro's need doing then, as I couldn't even get the stub axle out of the bearing on the Ute, I did hammer at it in various ways for a good while before ultimately giving up as nothing I could hobble together could get enough purchase to press it out.

Even the garage having taken the arm off, trying to press the stub axle out of the centre of the bearing it bent the stub axle