Clutch

[SeanR8Davis]

As above, I’m getting close to needing a new one, my peddle buying point is high, I get judder in reverse and more and more often it takes 2 attempts to get it into first gear.

I have a few questions.....

Firstly the car is slightly up on power from standard, dyno’d at 437bhp with similar torque figures. It’s never track day’d but when the opportunity permits I do like to give it some beans. Do I buy a standard clutch or should I go for an upgraded stronger one?

Secondly, I think I’m right in saying that I don’t need to change the flywheel as a matter of course? It’s just clutch plate pressure plate thrust bearing .... not sure if these have a slave cylinder?

I’ve read of a recommendation to upgrade to LS7? What benefits does this have?

I guess the overall question is what will be the best application for my car and where would be the cheapest place to get one from?

I’ve been looking on eBay, seems plenty in Oz and prob cheaper to import myself.

Or am I better buying from states? If so am I right in saying I need to be looking at Pontiac G8

Thanks

Sean

[mfp4073]

I would check the clutch fluid first. If it's low and or black in colour change that first. If you still have problems I would buy an ls7 clutch kit. This includs, flywheel ( not sure about bolts?) clutch and pressure plate.
On my Monaro I also fitted a pilot bearing, and a quick bleed line. This allows you to bleed the clutch from the engine bay and is a god send.
You need to check the slave cylinder as they are sometime past their best, mine was ok so I reused the original.
If you have a VXR8, I'm sure the advice Is the same.
Don't bother fitting a factory clutch ( unless it originally had an ls7 fitted of course )
These clutches are good for over 500+ HP, and have a nice feel to them.
These clutches are readily available, Walkinshaw performance, AAS, and MWP, to name a few.
You might get a kit cheaper from Rock Auto in the states, but I wouldn't bother trying anywhere in OZ as the price will be too expensive.

John

[Lincsls1]

I think the above has pretty much covered it all.
I'd suggest nearly no point in fitting the 'standard' clutch, yes its cheaper, but if you're keeping the car for a while then have the best. See the LS7 clutch kit as an 'OEM' upgrade, compatible with all the LS engines. Its good for 650Ib/Ft of torque, comes with a matching flywheel (your old one could be the source of your judder) and as a stock feel, I can vouch for this as I've just had one fitted to my Monaro by AAS.
Make sure it gets a new pilot bearing (think it comes with the kit) and personally I'd definitely change the slave unless it really is nearly new. The slave cylinder should come with the releasing bearing as a combined unit.

[SeanR8Davis]

Hi


Never thought about clutch fluid🙈

Worth a look. Thanks

[Lincsls1]

Hopefully it will just be a case of replacing the clutch fluid. However you'll be very lucky if that's all it is.
If you do change the clutch, I'll add replacing the rear crank seal whilst you're in there.

[bigwheel]

And replace the spigot bearing.

[fred bloggs]

Good advice on the seal.
I’d not put an LS7 flywheel they are heavier than a stock one. I’d go lighter fly and uprated clutch

[Lincsls1]

bigwheel said:

And replace the spigot bearing.

Just to avoid confusion, the spigot bearing is also known as the 'pilot' bearing I advised on.

[SeanR8Davis]

Ok thanks

Does get confusing🤣🤣

[SeanR8Davis]

Someone who commented, ( can’t recall who, sorry) suggested checking clutch fluid.

Am I correct in thinking that if the fluid was low it would not have any effect on where the biting point was on the peddle? As the biting point is high, from being fully depressed it don’t bite until about 1-2cm from the peddle being let up/ released.

Sean

[bigwheel]

Lincsls1 said:

bigwheel said:

And replace the spigot bearing.

Just to avoid confusion, the spigot bearing is also known as the 'pilot' bearing I advised on.

Yep, my bad. I'd skipped over the pilot bearing, assuming it was the release bearing even though you mentioned it with the annular slave.
At least the subject is now covered.

[mfp4073]

SeanR8Davis said:

Someone who commented, ( can’t recall who, sorry) suggested checking clutch fluid.

Am I correct in thinking that if the fluid was low it would not have any effect on where the biting point was on the peddle? As the biting point is high, from being fully depressed it don’t bite until about 1-2cm from the peddle being let up/ released.

Sean

If the fluid is a bit low in the reservoir it won't alter the clutch operation unless it's really low and sucking in air.
The clutch fluid gets dirty pretty quickly and will give you issues. You really need to keep on top of this and make sure it's always clean.
As soon as I see the fluid getting dark I change it, this is where the quick bleed kit pays for itself.
I would just change the fluid first and see what happens as it will clean the system out in any case.
When my clutch was causing problems I had trouble selecting first gear, but the bite point seemed OK, I suppose it depends on how the clutch has worn.

[bigwheel]

SeanR8Davis said:

Someone who commented, ( can’t recall who, sorry) suggested checking clutch fluid.

Am I correct in thinking that if the fluid was low it would not have any effect on where the biting point was on the peddle? As the biting point is high, from being fully depressed it don’t bite until about 1-2cm from the peddle being let up/ released.

Sean

You are pretty much right there about pedal position and low fluid. High pedal implies a build up of hydraulic pressure if the relief valve in the master cylinder isn't behaving, maybe dirty fluid.
Separately, these transmissions are sometimes prone to unusual symptoms when the fluid is dirty or been overheated. A bleed very often sorts it out.
Another common symptom is pedal stays on the floor until helped back up.

[SeanR8Davis]

I’ve just check the hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir and have found it to be fully topped up, the fluid appears to be very clean. Not seen blue hydraulic fluid before though.

Sean

[L2VXR]

SeanR8Davis said:

Not seen blue hydraulic fluid before though.

Sean

Monkfish used to use a blue fluid i had it in mine till recently. I think it had a higher resistance to boiling

[SeanR8Davis]

That’s good to know, I was beginning to think I’d looked in wrong resevoir.

It is the bigger of the 2 situated in the left hand corner of the engine bay mounted against the master cylinder, the smaller being brake fluid red??

Sean

[bigwheel]

SeanR8Davis said:

That’s good to know, I was beginning to think I’d looked in wrong resevoir.

It is the bigger of the 2 situated in the left hand corner of the engine bay mounted against the master cylinder, the smaller being brake fluid red??

Sean

I'm not sure if you are confused between brake and clutch? The largest reservoir with wires coming out of the side is the brakes.
The much smaller reservoir, nearer to the engine is the clutch.

[SeanR8Davis]

Ah, ok, confused then, I checked the smaller “clutch “ one as well. That was dark dirty looking. When I dipped a piece of kitchen roll in it, the fluid appeared to have dust like particles in it and gave a dark grey/ charcoal colour on the white kitchen paper.

Time for it to be changed then??

Sean

[SeanR8Davis]

How much clutch fluid is required for a flush/ fluid change and is there any recommended spec?

Thanks

Sean

[maccavvy]

the smaller one is clutch fluid and 1 litre is more than enough to bleed it out . dot 4 is fine .

the blue fluid has actually been outlawed according to monkfish , it was ate hydraulic fluid but they changed the law on coloured fluids

monkfish swapped mine out before they shut