Latest upgrades!

[Lincsls1]

The brakes are great and the mats add approximately 100bhp!

Edited by Lincsls1 on Thursday 27th June 22:47

[mfp4073]

Well you certainly can't beat that combination of wheels and brake package, they look ace.

[99PBATR]

I disagree...the mats add at least 120BHP Nice upgrade sir

[Lincsls1]

Thanks guys, starting to feel the progress now, she's starting to turn into a decent example.
The guys at AAS in Newcastle did a grand job, I also had them throw me a transmission mount just for good measure given the cars age. They did me a cat-back last year with X pipe, along with a full service. I'm considering their mid-length headers and sports cats next to finish the system off.

[mfp4073]

If you go for the headers, cats and X pipe, get Stuart to change the front O2 sensors as well as they do age. The rear two on my car are original but as far as I'm aware they are not as critical as the front ones anyway.
I'll try and think up some other things for you spend on....oh yes a Wavetrack that's nice.....

[Lincsls1]

mfp4073 said:

If you go for the headers, cats and X pipe, get Stuart to change the front O2 sensors as well as they do age. The rear two on my car are original but as far as I'm aware they are not as critical as the front ones anyway.
I'll try and think up some other things for you spend on....oh yes a Wavetrack that's nice.....

Yeah, I'd already thought about getting the sensors changed at the same time as that would make good sense.
Regarding further spending, trust me, I've got plenty on the wish list. Doubt it'll ever get done though. Don't think the car will ever be classed as finished.
I'd like to refresh the entire suspension and bushes. I'd like to have a 4:10 diff installed. I'd love to investigate some power upgrades such as cam, possibly even supercharging. Dreams, dreams!
With a good lottery win, I'd love to blow £25k on it!
Silly I know.

[Lincsls1]

Oh and a quick steering rack!

[99PBATR]

My diff is less than great and I'm thinking at some point next year of changing it to a TruTrac or a WaveTrac. Do most people go for a standard replacement or change the gearing slightly? There seems to be a huge cost difference between the TruTrac and Wavetrac diffs...whats's the reason?

[mfp4073]

99PBATR said:

My diff is less than great and I'm thinking at some point next year of changing it to a TruTrac or a WaveTrac. Do most people go for a standard replacement or change the gearing slightly? There seems to be a huge cost difference between the TruTrac and Wavetrac diffs...whats's the reason?

The TrueTrac and the Wavetrac do not alter the rear end ratio, you can leave your standard gearing alone. To change the ratio you need to replace the crown wheel and pinion set for that. I went for a 3.90 diff.
The difference between the Truetrac and the Wavetrac is that the Wavetrac has the ability to keep the drive to both wheels should the inner wheel go light when cornering.....I think!.... There is a carbon friction plate in the Wavetrac which acts as a friction plate to transmit the drive between the wheels, Other that that both units a pretty similar.
The Truetrac has a fair amount of slop where the drive shafts enter the diff, the Wavetrac does not, it's a much better unit, it's stronger and the quality of construction is better which is why it costs more.
Sadly I've had a Truetrac and it was hopeless, it was noisey and sounded like it was going to fall apart. After 20000 miles it went into the bin.....I was very disappointed after all the hype.
The Wavetac on the other hand has been totally different, it's quiet and doesn't have any slop in it, it really did transform the car.
Lots of people have fitted Truetracs without problems other than sloppy drive shafts, but I have to recommend the Wavetrac, it's actually made in the USA and has a lifetime warranty.
My Wavetrac was fitted by AAS in Newcastle, it was a full rebuild with new seals and bearings, they won't fit a Truetrac to your car no matter how much you pay them.

Decisions decisions!!!!!!!

Edited by mfp4073 on Friday 28th June 15:52

Edited by mfp4073 on Friday 28th June 15:53

[Lincsls1]

^^^ What is this slop you're talking about John? Is it like drive line shunt? Where the propshaft has to turn a little before anything happens in the diff which in turn creates a lot of noise if this slack isn't taken up nicely when making slow manoeuvers?
My standard diff is rather bad in this department.

[mfp4073]

Lincsls1 said:

^^^ What is this slop you're talking about John? Is it like drive line shunt? Where the propshaft has to turn a little before anything happens in the diff which in turn creates a lot of noise if this slack isn't taken up nicely when making slow manoeuvers?
My standard diff is rather bad in this department.

If you get your car on a 4 post lift handbrake on, grab the propshaft and twist it. On a good Monaro there is a large amount of rotation before it stops. Assuming the centre bearing and rubber donuts at either end of the prop are in order then that is normal.
The slop I'm talking about is the halfshafts which come out each side of the diff to each of the wheels.
There should only be a small amount of movement unles the universal joints on each end of the halfshafts are worn.
When I fitted my Truetrac, these halfshafts were really slack and you could move then all over the place and I mean quite a lot, the entire diff just felt slack.
Once the Wavetrac was fitted those half shafts were nice and tight, there needs to be a little bit of free play of course but no where near the amount the Trutrack had.
All Monaros clunk to some degree that's just how they are, it's just trying to gauge it without the benefit of comparing it to another car.
Before you change anything in the diff it's worth an oil change first just in case that fixes any issues you have.
I use Castrol at the moment as it has a good reputation and works well in my application.
I hope that helps a bit.

[THUNDER STORM]

John, what oil type is it you use and does it need any modifier adding?

Ade

[mfp4073]

THUNDER STORM said:

John, what oil type is it you use and does it need any modifier adding?

Ade

Hello Ade,
I remember speaking to you at AAS a while ago when Stuart was doing a demo on Royal Purple engine oil.
Since then Stuart has rebuilt my diff and recommend that I use Castrol Syntrax 75w/140 gear oil for my particular application, there is no need to add any friction modifier.
I used to use Royal Purple in the diff with my Truetrac but im not too sure about it to be honest. Mind you others have used Royal Purple without any problems.
If you have a standard LSD I would give Stuart a call and see if the Castrol oil suitable, he has a huge drum of the stuff if you want to give it a go.

John

[SturdyHSV]

Have had a truetrac for about 6 years or so now, I wouldn't say I noticed an increase in slop / shunt compared to the stock diff, but certainly the car is still a bit clunky (and that's with a 1 piece propshaft)

The truetrac is certainly less sophisticated than the wavetrack, but it requires naff all maintenance, no clutches or anything to wear out and you'd have to be trying extremely hard to break one.

I'd like to think I give the car a fair amount of abuse (last rears lasted 2,000 miles) and I've never found this mythical 'spin inside wheel when unloaded' to be an issue, but maybe I just haven't had it airborn over kerbs or had one wheel on sheet ice or something to demonstrate it.

I believe as said above, the output splines for the half shafts are cut a bit big so that's where the additional slop comes from.

Having said all of that... I am considering upgrading to the wavetrac, but only because I now also have a Ute that I'd happily stick the truetrac in, so man maths may work out...

[fred bloggs]

Poly engine, trans and diff mounts, Lightened fly, kaaz diff.


Yep, I got clunks.


But the right ones.