VXR8 LS2 Engine disaster

[chris-y]

Anyone who is on the VXR8 Facebook group may already know this, on Friday my VXR8 LS2 suffered a failed valve spring and the consequences, as the pics show.









I've only had the car since September so this is quite a blow, I've had lots of advice to say that a crate engine (LS3) is the best option, however I'm considering used engine or a rebuild as lower cost alternatives. Lots off options at the minute.

Current most cost effective estimate is for a rebuild by LSX Performance, Kyle Rushall, dont know if you know him. To keep cost down this means me removing and replacing the engine, which outdoors with no lift isnt going to be easy, but it might have to be done.

Feel free to share your thoughts, and I'll share the progress as its made.

Last thing, my engine had single valve springs, it seems that a few people have had single springs fail, I'd strongly recommend anyone who has singles fitted to consider replacing them at a far lower cost than fixing the consequences of a failure.
Learn from my pain.

[stevieturbo]

Valve spring failure is rare....perhaps more so if totally standard.

If it was modified in some way, there might be more reasons for potential failure, although that would be more down to poor component choice or building than because they are actually single springs

LS3 crate may be an option, but you'd need to be sure the crank/cam triggers on an LS3 crate will work with your ecu.

A VXR8 should probably be a later 58x trigger, although I thought most LS2's used the older 24x setup.

And cost of an LS3 would also require a remap to suit the new engine even if trigger system is also usable.


However, the damage you've incurred.....you'd need to be sure your block is even re-usable, as damage like this can really destroy everything.
Bare LS2 blocks are still available from Summit, a new rod and piston would probable be fairly easy to source. And you'd probably need a cylinder head depending how badly damaged your own is.

Could be time to upgrade a pair of heads complete with valves/springs though, but there's bound to be people out there selling a standard head the same as yours that would work if keeping costs as low as possible.

All of this plus rebuild would...should still be cheaper than an LS3 crate.

Can't say I've ever heard of the person you mention though.

[chris-y]

It had Comp cams cam fitted, the springs were supplied in the kit with it. This was all before I bought it.

I've been advised that LS2 as fitted to Monaro has a different trigger system to the LS3, but the LS2 as fitted to the VXR8 is the same. I dont know from first hand experience though.

Thanks for commenting.

[Boosted LS1]

Look behind the starter and you'll see the crank sensor bolted to the side of the block. If it's grey then your engine has a 58 tooth trigger wheel like late engines. If not, then it uses the earlier 24x reluctor system.

I'm pretty sure I have a new rod and piston assembly in stock if you need it.

[JAMESHSV1]

Look at Thompson motorsports in the USA there engines are very reasonable

[stevieturbo]

chris-y said:

It had Comp cams cam fitted, the springs were supplied in the kit with it. This was all before I bought it.

I've been advised that LS2 as fitted to Monaro has a different trigger system to the LS3, but the LS2 as fitted to the VXR8 is the same. I dont know from first hand experience though.

Thanks for commenting.

Failure could well be down to improper installation of those parts, although there is a smaller chance of a faulty part itself. But more likely improper installation.

The engine needs to come out, assess the block to see if it is re-usable, if so than a rebuild does make more sense.

IF....IF yours is the 58x crank trigger than that is easier if you want to move to an LS3 crate, but it is definitely an expensive option. If your LS2 block is screwed and needs replaced, it might be a reasonably sensible option though.

[chris-y]

Thanks for the replies all.
I'll check out the teeth number.

I really dont want to spend the cost of a crate engine, I just cant afford it after stretching myself to buy the car just in September so unless something else comes along I'll be looking to have this engine saved. Fingers crossed.

To be honest I dont understand how installation can cause a valve spring to snap later, I'd have thought it was more likely the spec or manufacture of the springs. It doesnt matter now though, its too late and I'll never trust single springs in one of these engines again.

[Boosted LS1]

After january 2006 Giggle suggest most LS engines are 58 tooth trigger wheels.

OP, how old is your engine and did you check the colour of the crank sensor? Black sensor will have a cable operated TB 24x trigger wheel. Grey sensor is 58 teeth and will be fly by wire TB.

[chris-y]

I havent had a chance to check yet, but hope to at the weekend. Mine is 2007, I've been advised that when fitted to a VXR8 the LS2 is the later type of trigger wheel, I'll check anyway.

Great to hear of someone else having an engine built by Kyle.

Have you got it fitted yet?
When we discussed I liked what he said, and the price is way less painful than a crate.

He is interested in doing more Australian car work so I'll post progress here if I go that way, or whichever way I go.

Edited by chris-y on Friday 1st March 00:24

[selym]

Check the build date on the data plate - I presume the build date is the important one, not registration date. Mine was made in 05 and registered in 06 (56 plate).
I'm just presuming this is the case.

[BartW]

Hi,
Really sorry for you.

I have been there with LS3 in VXR8. I did not gamble and just bought a new crate engine.

I since met a very decent bloke in Sacramento, Cali who deals in LS engines and does some good. He arranged for my BTR cam to be there for me in time for my US trip last Winter (and I had never met the guy before).

He posts a lot of stuff on Insta, and surely he goes through engines like few in the UK. Perhaps speak to him, and mention that Bart from London was there to visit him. Once decided, let me know and I might be able to mention a word.

Look up Sac speed shop in Sacramento (Alex Hernandez).

Good luck!

Bart

[stevieturbo]

chris-y said:

Thanks for the replies all.
I'll check out the teeth number.

I really dont want to spend the cost of a crate engine, I just cant afford it after stretching myself to buy the car just in September so unless something else comes along I'll be looking to have this engine saved. Fingers crossed.

To be honest I dont understand how installation can cause a valve spring to snap later, I'd have thought it was more likely the spec or manufacture of the springs. It doesnt matter now though, its too late and I'll never trust single springs in one of these engines again.

Very simple, incorrect lifter pre-load or incorrect installed spring height are two basics many overlook or get wrong and could lead to premature failure.

[chris-y]

stevieturbo said:

Very simple, incorrect lifter pre-load or incorrect installed spring height are two basics many overlook or get wrong and could lead to premature failure.

How do you avoid these problems.

Genuinely interested. If I manage to find a used engine I'd have to consider putting my cam in it, and some suitable valve springs. Even if I dont put the cam in I'll still look to change the valve springs for whatever is the best available for the job as a precaution after whats happened.

Valve springs seems very easy to do, but there is no point if its not done properly and only makes matters worse.

Any pointers very much appreciated.

[Boosted LS1]

^ You use an adjustable length pushrod to determine the lifter preload. Then you buy pushrods of the correct length. As for spring height, you measure how tall it is when installed. It needs to be the height the manufacturer stipulates. If it's wrong you can either shorten the height by placing a shim under it or to increase the height, machining a recess into the head under the spring.

[chris-y]

Boosted LS1 said:

^ You use an adjustable length pushrod to determine the lifter preload. Then you buy pushrods of the correct length. As for spring height, you measure how tall it is when installed. It needs to be the height the manufacturer stipulates. If it's wrong you can either shorten the height by placing a shim under it or to increase the height, machining a recess into the head under the spring.

Great info, thanks.

I haven't done a lot of engine work, just the usual gaskets and suchlike, but a background in precision engineering means that with the right info I've got no problem with measurement etc.

Spring height seems easy to check, if a little more difficult if its too short and the heads need to come off (I was planning not to remove it them if possible).

How do you determine lifter preload once you have the adjustable pushrod?

Sorry to be a pain, maybe I should just use google but since you have been kind enough to share your knowledge I thought I'd ask first.

[Boosted LS1]

You adjust the pushrod until it takes up all the slack but only just. Then you remove it and measure it's overall length. Add onto that the recommended preload that you need ie .040". Then order pushrods of the correct length. You have to take into consideration the shape of the pushrod ends as well, before ordering.

Edited by Boosted LS1 on Sunday 3rd March 16:32

[Phillphill]

Drop me a pm

[dreamtoy]

I have a tool to set reluctor crank wheel if you need to change one....
Just done a LS2 rebuild.
If you want to sell the damaged engine I'd be interested. All depends if you need bits...
Create engine is best but depends what you want....

[chris-y]

dreamtoy said:

I have a tool to set reluctor crank wheel if you need to change one....
Just done a LS2 rebuild.
If you want to sell the damaged engine I'd be interested. All depends if you need bits...
Create engine is best but depends what you want....

Have we been in touch via Facebook today?
If yes I wont repeat myself, but thanks for the offer of help with the tool.