Gearbox and diff oil change done!
Discussion
So changed both oils last weekend and the gear oil was really black so I suspect never been changed before, done 46k.
Diff oil was as expected, dirty and stinky plus had to decant my gear oil into another smaller neck container so I could fit my pump, which I must say worked really well, didn't need it for the diff as access is better so can be squeezed straight in from the bottle.
Had a short drive after but couldn't detect much difference in gear changing so will monitor.
Diff oil was as expected, dirty and stinky plus had to decant my gear oil into another smaller neck container so I could fit my pump, which I must say worked really well, didn't need it for the diff as access is better so can be squeezed straight in from the bottle.
Had a short drive after but couldn't detect much difference in gear changing so will monitor.
The method to change clutch fluid is:-
1 ) renew fluid in reserviour. If like mine you find there is a layer of soot/carbon/crud in the bottom of it, empty it, clean crud with kitchen paper/shop cloth, then refill.
2) pump clutch 10 times.
3 ) if fluid is not beautiful and clean empty with syringe, refill, go to step 2
Before I had a bleeding kit installed when I had my clutch and slave cylinder changed, this was the only way to do it.
After a number of cycles you'll be seeing all clean. This works because the action of pumping the clutch moves fluid from the master to the slave, then back again with the excess going back to the reservior. The contamination is also put in to suspension by the movement of the fluid so after the initial cleaning, the syringe method out and new in is all that's needed.
It is slightly tedious but important as the slave cylinder can fail ( as mine did ) resulting in baulking during gear changes at first ( embarrasing ), then the clutch engaging all by itself when your foot is still on the pedal ( scary ).
1 ) renew fluid in reserviour. If like mine you find there is a layer of soot/carbon/crud in the bottom of it, empty it, clean crud with kitchen paper/shop cloth, then refill.
2) pump clutch 10 times.
3 ) if fluid is not beautiful and clean empty with syringe, refill, go to step 2
Before I had a bleeding kit installed when I had my clutch and slave cylinder changed, this was the only way to do it.
After a number of cycles you'll be seeing all clean. This works because the action of pumping the clutch moves fluid from the master to the slave, then back again with the excess going back to the reservior. The contamination is also put in to suspension by the movement of the fluid so after the initial cleaning, the syringe method out and new in is all that's needed.
It is slightly tedious but important as the slave cylinder can fail ( as mine did ) resulting in baulking during gear changes at first ( embarrasing ), then the clutch engaging all by itself when your foot is still on the pedal ( scary ).
dan mugglestone said:
Got the same job lined up in a couple of weeks , hoping it'll improve gearchange . Have been syringing the clutch fluid out the reservoir and topping up with fresh dot 4 and its helped
Did you add any modifier in the diff with the syntrax castrol ??
Hi no I just refilled with Syntrax will see how it goes, when I changed my clutch fluid last year it helped a lot with gear selection.Did you add any modifier in the diff with the syntrax castrol ??
I don't have a remote bleeder so it's not as easy but the bleed nipple is accessible via the hole in the bell housing on n/s use a 1/4 drive ratchet and socket loosen nipple, attach a pipe feed into empty container and pump the pedal, clean out reservoir refill clean fluid pump through and keep topped up hold down pedal tighten nipple job done.
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