Rear Brake Lines - MOT failure
Discussion
My 2005 VXR has just failed the MOT on corroded rear brake lines - these are the lines that run over the diff and rear subframe. Is this a subframe out job or is there another way? How do the clips that the lines go through unclip? The ones that the lines go through with rubber blocks in?
Many thanks!
Many thanks!
They've done well to last this long ! It was a few years ago I did mine but was able to do it with the subframe on, the drivers side I was able to do in 1 piece whereas the passenger side I did in 2 pieces . joining where it loops up over the subframe. You will need to drill out the metal clips that wrap around the rubber mount .. they are riveted to the body from memory.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
I have literally just bought my Monaro today - a 5.7 VXR.
I insisted it have a fresh MOT before completion, which it failed. On the brake lines!
The seller had his local regular mechanic change the whole lot for copper. Sub-frame was not dropped and he managed to do without joins. The only join he did do was in the engine bay, for the NS wheel. He said couldn't change the mild steel pipe behind the engine so joined fresh a copper line in the bay before passing through the body to the wheel well.
That said this remaining section and the other mild steel brake lines from master to ABS unit are spotless due to there environment so I'm happy with this. He also mention having to drill out and re-rivet the clips.
Total price £240inc VAT. I think that's pretty good.
The removed original lines were thrown in the boot for my inspection and I have to say they really weren't that bad. The said mechanic thought the MOT tester was being a bit harsh. Glad its done though as it was on the list of jobs I have planned.
I insisted it have a fresh MOT before completion, which it failed. On the brake lines!
The seller had his local regular mechanic change the whole lot for copper. Sub-frame was not dropped and he managed to do without joins. The only join he did do was in the engine bay, for the NS wheel. He said couldn't change the mild steel pipe behind the engine so joined fresh a copper line in the bay before passing through the body to the wheel well.
That said this remaining section and the other mild steel brake lines from master to ABS unit are spotless due to there environment so I'm happy with this. He also mention having to drill out and re-rivet the clips.
Total price £240inc VAT. I think that's pretty good.
The removed original lines were thrown in the boot for my inspection and I have to say they really weren't that bad. The said mechanic thought the MOT tester was being a bit harsh. Glad its done though as it was on the list of jobs I have planned.
Edited by lincsls2 on Tuesday 5th June 21:39
JoyCV8 said:
They've done well to last this long !
Hhhmmm I assume that mine are original (2005 VXR) but I had the whole underside professionally undersealed in 2008 when I bought it so hopefully its saving them (and the fact its not doing massive miles or out in the salt). We shall see. Its a job I need to get onto at some point.Did mine last year with car on axle stands, wasn't too difficult and managed to do it without any joins. Hardest part was bending the new lines between the subframe and the chassis rail on drivers side. Cut the old lines into two pieces makes it easier to remove.
Mine had actually rotted all the way through and was dumping brake fluid, so your lucky the mot caught it.
Get some new flexible lines as the will be rotting too. Look on amazon.com for the russell ones for the gto.
While I was under there, decided to do a few upgrades, changed the front caliper for the cts-v ones and also put some bc racing coilovers on. Overall ended up spending nearly £1600 on what should have cost no more than £200.
Mine had actually rotted all the way through and was dumping brake fluid, so your lucky the mot caught it.
Get some new flexible lines as the will be rotting too. Look on amazon.com for the russell ones for the gto.
While I was under there, decided to do a few upgrades, changed the front caliper for the cts-v ones and also put some bc racing coilovers on. Overall ended up spending nearly £1600 on what should have cost no more than £200.
Amazon.com for the calipers, they were only $300 delivered. Used bmw x5 discs due to the hat height being almost bang on. Any smaller and I was running the risk of the caliper hitting the wheels any larger and I would need to cut huge chunks out of the caliper.
Used a piece of 10mm thick aluminium for the caliper bracket. Luckily i have a 3d printer so it was easy mocking up. I did have to dremel the mounts on the hub a little and the caliper needed a little shaving off but nothing too excessive.
Brake pads are the same as the Mitsubishi evo.
On holiday the moment but I can get some pics when I'm back
Used a piece of 10mm thick aluminium for the caliper bracket. Luckily i have a 3d printer so it was easy mocking up. I did have to dremel the mounts on the hub a little and the caliper needed a little shaving off but nothing too excessive.
Brake pads are the same as the Mitsubishi evo.
On holiday the moment but I can get some pics when I'm back
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