Help me understand my Hunter alignment printout (Monaro)
Discussion
Hi folks,
went to get the alignment done on my big boot Monaro CV8 as I've done a fair amount of motorway driving and started to notice uneven wear (driver's side iner edge) and steering pulling to the left.
Went to a hunter alignment place that was recommended to me, but I have a few reservations. Firstly, it took about 1.5 hours to do - is this normal? Also, at some point the guy did something on the screen and I saw him change some parameters so the display and print off said "modified specification" after - not sure if that's correct?
Secondly, car is till pulling slightly to the left, but guy says everything is correctly adjusted. Here's the read out:
He claims he cannot adjust the rear n/s wheel as it's non-adjustable, but that tyre wore evenly despite apparently being out (just replaced it and had a good look). Do the adjustments look okay? Any other cause for the car to still be pulling left?
Ps. I tried driving on the wrong side of the road to allow for road camber, but the car still pulled toward the left/ centre-line.
went to get the alignment done on my big boot Monaro CV8 as I've done a fair amount of motorway driving and started to notice uneven wear (driver's side iner edge) and steering pulling to the left.
Went to a hunter alignment place that was recommended to me, but I have a few reservations. Firstly, it took about 1.5 hours to do - is this normal? Also, at some point the guy did something on the screen and I saw him change some parameters so the display and print off said "modified specification" after - not sure if that's correct?
Secondly, car is till pulling slightly to the left, but guy says everything is correctly adjusted. Here's the read out:
He claims he cannot adjust the rear n/s wheel as it's non-adjustable, but that tyre wore evenly despite apparently being out (just replaced it and had a good look). Do the adjustments look okay? Any other cause for the car to still be pulling left?
Ps. I tried driving on the wrong side of the road to allow for road camber, but the car still pulled toward the left/ centre-line.
These are from the FAQ for 04 CV8 alignment, but not sure how to transpose the numbers into the chart above:
Camber: -12min +- 18min
Castor: +7deg 45min +- 1Deg 15min
Total Tow: +10 min +-10min
Front N/S: +5min +-5 min
Front O/S: +5min +-5 min
Rear N/S: +5min +-5 min
Rear O/S: +5min +-5 min
Rear Tow: -0.5 deg
Camber: -12min +- 18min
Castor: +7deg 45min +- 1Deg 15min
Total Tow: +10 min +-10min
Front N/S: +5min +-5 min
Front O/S: +5min +-5 min
Rear N/S: +5min +-5 min
Rear O/S: +5min +-5 min
Rear Tow: -0.5 deg
maccavvy said:
the fronts are adjustable for camber the screw is not the easiest to see. its behind the disc
should be able to get the rear better too
id be asking for my money back
I'm afraid I cant help in changing minutes to degrees
I bet the camber adjustment screw had seized, had this on my silver VXR and it took a lot of effort to free it off, although got there in the end. should be able to get the rear better too
id be asking for my money back
I'm afraid I cant help in changing minutes to degrees
The rear camber is indeed non-adjustable. The settings at the back are nothing to be worried about.
However, the front left is running positive camber, which you dont want. Its also outside the spec on the machine, which is -12mins +/- 18 mins. (for a CV8) Which would allow a max of +6. So not a world away, but id be wanting a good negative number. Unequal camber left to right wont help any tendancy towards pulling to one side, thouygh that may not be the root cause.
However, the front left is running positive camber, which you dont want. Its also outside the spec on the machine, which is -12mins +/- 18 mins. (for a CV8) Which would allow a max of +6. So not a world away, but id be wanting a good negative number. Unequal camber left to right wont help any tendancy towards pulling to one side, thouygh that may not be the root cause.
From a quick wiki, the degrees, minutes and seconds notation is an alternative to decimal degrees.
1 degree is divided into 60 minutes (of arc) and each minute divided into 60 seconds.
So a quarter of a degree is 15 minutes (quarter of an hour...)
So 1* 15' 0'' would be 1*, 15 mins, 0 seconds, so effectively 1.25*
Why the hell that's used I've no idea, decimal seems much easier?!
1 degree is divided into 60 minutes (of arc) and each minute divided into 60 seconds.
So a quarter of a degree is 15 minutes (quarter of an hour...)
So 1* 15' 0'' would be 1*, 15 mins, 0 seconds, so effectively 1.25*
Why the hell that's used I've no idea, decimal seems much easier?!
SturdyHSV said:
From a quick wiki, the degrees, minutes and seconds notation is an alternative to decimal degrees.
1 degree is divided into 60 minutes (of arc) and each minute divided into 60 seconds.
So a quarter of a degree is 15 minutes (quarter of an hour...)
So 1* 15' 0'' would be 1*, 15 mins, 0 seconds, so effectively 1.25*
Why the hell that's used I've no idea, decimal seems much easier?!
It's there because that was the system when the UK only used Imperial.1 degree is divided into 60 minutes (of arc) and each minute divided into 60 seconds.
So a quarter of a degree is 15 minutes (quarter of an hour...)
So 1* 15' 0'' would be 1*, 15 mins, 0 seconds, so effectively 1.25*
Why the hell that's used I've no idea, decimal seems much easier?!
And before anyone says we're metric now, what weight was the last new-born baby you know of?
Edited by bigwheel on Tuesday 17th January 16:42
Theres nothing overly untoward there in my book for a road set up. The rear maybee has an old bush,but the car is straight.
Me, I like a bit more neg camber and a bit of toe out at the front.
Ive not put mine on a aligner as it drives straight and I only go on track a couple times a year.
Out of interest does anyone know the max neg camber you can put with the stock adjuster ?
Me, I like a bit more neg camber and a bit of toe out at the front.
Ive not put mine on a aligner as it drives straight and I only go on track a couple times a year.
Out of interest does anyone know the max neg camber you can put with the stock adjuster ?
monkfish1 said:
The rear camber is indeed non-adjustable. The settings at the back are nothing to be worried about.
However, the front left is running positive camber, which you dont want. Its also outside the spec on the machine, which is -12mins +/- 18 mins. (for a CV8) Which would allow a max of +6. So not a world away, but id be wanting a good negative number. Unequal camber left to right wont help any tendancy towards pulling to one side, thouygh that may not be the root cause.
Thanks Roger - I'll go back and ask to have more negative camber on the front left. I'll give you a call if any new parts are needed However, the front left is running positive camber, which you dont want. Its also outside the spec on the machine, which is -12mins +/- 18 mins. (for a CV8) Which would allow a max of +6. So not a world away, but id be wanting a good negative number. Unequal camber left to right wont help any tendancy towards pulling to one side, thouygh that may not be the root cause.
Thanks for the responses everyone
Thanks fred bloggs. I should have said it pulls left more than the usual amount I'm used to with that car. That's why I tried driving on the wrong side of my private test track to check if the car would straighten out as the camber would now fall away to the right, but it still pulled left.
Think they accidentally applied the NASCAR setup
Sadly, the alignment will have to wait as the car failed it's MOT because a warning light on the cluster has blown and doesn't illuminate. Any help on the other thread greatly appreciated
Think they accidentally applied the NASCAR setup
Sadly, the alignment will have to wait as the car failed it's MOT because a warning light on the cluster has blown and doesn't illuminate. Any help on the other thread greatly appreciated
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