Power steering line removal from the steering rack
Discussion
I think there 16mm , they are a pain having to unscrew a little turn at a time. I cut a slot out of an old twelve point ring spanner so I could slip it over the pipe and it gave a bit more travel in each turn.
Also you can get a bit more access if you remove the column pinch bolt and the rack mounting bolts and drop the rack so it hangs off the track rods. But make sure you lock the steering wheel or you'll need to recentre the clock spring for the airbag.
Also you can get a bit more access if you remove the column pinch bolt and the rack mounting bolts and drop the rack so it hangs off the track rods. But make sure you lock the steering wheel or you'll need to recentre the clock spring for the airbag.
Edited by L2VXR on Saturday 12th November 15:56
Big problem with a lot of crows feet....is they are very very bulky which can make them almost impossible to get in where you think they should...and then actually get a turn on them !
I bought a set years ago thinking they would be handy. I think I've used them once...and even that wasnt handy lol
If there was a thin 12pt set, that would be a lot more useful.
I bought a set years ago thinking they would be handy. I think I've used them once...and even that wasnt handy lol
If there was a thin 12pt set, that would be a lot more useful.
stevieturbo said:
Big problem with a lot of crows feet....is they are very very bulky which can make them almost impossible to get in where you think they should...and then actually get a turn on them !
I bought a set years ago thinking they would be handy. I think I've used them once...and even that wasnt handy lol
If there was a thin 12pt set, that would be a lot more useful.
That's the conclusion I came to also when I was looking for a suitable tool to make things easier. I did find a 16mm brake pipe type spanner but it's bulk wouldn't have helped, that when I took a cutting disc to a combination spannerI bought a set years ago thinking they would be handy. I think I've used them once...and even that wasnt handy lol
If there was a thin 12pt set, that would be a lot more useful.
I put the headers back in today, steering all aligned as before, I didn't move the steering wheel while rack was disconnected, anyway I let it warm up and burn off any residue on the headers and went for a drive, all was well then all of sudden the head lights started switching off and on until they switched off completely, traction control and dealer warning came on and instruments switched off, engine continued to run no problem, I got home and switched engine off and took the key out. Various relays continued to click on and of, hazards attempting to flash, boot open mechanism also until I disconnected the battery.
It's done something similar before, the CD player would continue to click along with other relays, I thought it was because the battery was flat, after charging and reconnecting all was good. Ive got the battery on charge, but it went to conditioning pretty quickly, I'm leaving it on chargea over night and will put it back in tomorrow.
Any ideas, I'm thinking it could be immobiliser or key fob flat battery related?
It's done something similar before, the CD player would continue to click along with other relays, I thought it was because the battery was flat, after charging and reconnecting all was good. Ive got the battery on charge, but it went to conditioning pretty quickly, I'm leaving it on chargea over night and will put it back in tomorrow.
Any ideas, I'm thinking it could be immobiliser or key fob flat battery related?
No joy this morning, reconnect the battery and all sorts of electrical activity, instrument display is active reporting revs at redline, remote door locking is week. The engine will start thou
it has an additional hsv meta system immobilizer fitted, i wondering if this is the problem. How to disable it?
It may have also killed my efilive flash scan which was connected and logging my O2's at the time, screen is now blue, but readable at a tilted angle.
it has an additional hsv meta system immobilizer fitted, i wondering if this is the problem. How to disable it?
It may have also killed my efilive flash scan which was connected and logging my O2's at the time, screen is now blue, but readable at a tilted angle.
Edited by Gelf VXR on Sunday 4th December 09:48
Battery checked at 12.7v, i persevered with it turning on and off the alarm with the remote key and it sorted itself out, i checked for codes and saw U0001 - high speed Can communication bus and U0121 - lost communication with the anti locking brake system.
Strange enough when i plugged in efilive FSV2 the screen came back to normal again,
This is third occasion its acted strangely after having the battery disconnected for some time, this time was really bizarre thou.
Strange enough when i plugged in efilive FSV2 the screen came back to normal again,
This is third occasion its acted strangely after having the battery disconnected for some time, this time was really bizarre thou.
All seemed well yesterday, as day light faded headlights, tail lights and fog lights no longer working it seems, done a bit of searching and it seems like the body control module relays are a common intermittent problem with lights staying on, not seen anyone with similar issues as I'm having thou I've got all the wiring schematics, will start to check and clean the common chassis earth point next to the battery
If it's the BCM itself I need new keys as well
If it's the BCM itself I need new keys as well
Edited by Gelf VXR on Monday 5th December 07:13
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