LS1 Cam from USA
Discussion
My better half is visiting relatives over the pond in a few weeks time. Thinking of asking her to bring me a cam kit back. Does anyone know which is the best cam for max power without any other mods bar fuelling to my 2004 LS1 engine. Engine is fitted in a MK2 Escort so emissions are not really an issue.
Our best daily drive stuff in Oz with low 11's performance came from a Comp Cams 232/234 with a decent tune.
I used to have a Comp 244/248 as a daily driver and it was OK as well as the tune was good and so it was docile enough for the street but 11.02 on the blacktop.
Mine's now 25x/25x in the engine on the ute.
As Ringram says, valve springs are very important to gain stability at high RPM, and try to reduce the valve-train weight where possible. Be careful of lift to avoid any PTV clearance issues.
Have fun!
I used to have a Comp 244/248 as a daily driver and it was OK as well as the tune was good and so it was docile enough for the street but 11.02 on the blacktop.
Mine's now 25x/25x in the engine on the ute.
As Ringram says, valve springs are very important to gain stability at high RPM, and try to reduce the valve-train weight where possible. Be careful of lift to avoid any PTV clearance issues.
Have fun!
sheepdip said:
My better half is visiting relatives over the pond in a few weeks time. Thinking of asking her to bring me a cam kit back. Does anyone know which is the best cam for max power without any other mods bar fuelling to my 2004 LS1 engine. Engine is fitted in a MK2 Escort so emissions are not really an issue.
Really you're looking at a spring/retainer/cam/pushrod package really.Dont go daft with the lift and the standard valves etc will be fine
Take a look at various dyno results over on Tech, there will be some cam only swaps etc you can maybe get an idea of what works and what doesnt, but really you'd be best to speak to some of the cam guys.
Whether Kip at Cam Motion, Martin at Tick Performance, Brian at Brian Tooley Racing, etc etc
T-Rex would seem to be the popular choice and sounds amazing.
And I'd 2nd Texas Speed & Performance as a vendor. Although they don't sell that cam. TSP do their own "Magicstick" cams, which have always been well respected too and arguably the same ballpark as the T-Rex.
https://www.texas-speed.com/c-3091-ls1ls2ls6-natur...
And I'd 2nd Texas Speed & Performance as a vendor. Although they don't sell that cam. TSP do their own "Magicstick" cams, which have always been well respected too and arguably the same ballpark as the T-Rex.
https://www.texas-speed.com/c-3091-ls1ls2ls6-natur...
I had my brother in law bring me back the street industries SI5 cam kit.
I havent fitted it yet but it was a bargain
Mine came with the Cam (which is a comp cam 231/237) Pac valve springs, hardend pushrods, SLP ported oil pump, new double chain timing gear and all the associated parts you need for fitting
My car isnt a daily drive, for the noise and power i really dont mind a lumpy idle, stock monaro isnt exactly refined to drive round in a town anyway!
Most people in the states with this cam on a stock 5.7 (which normally means better headers the stock 5.7 monaro, exhaust cai) are around 400-410whp
Ringham has also quoted me for mapping, he is very helpful with this kind of thing
I havent fitted it yet but it was a bargain
Mine came with the Cam (which is a comp cam 231/237) Pac valve springs, hardend pushrods, SLP ported oil pump, new double chain timing gear and all the associated parts you need for fitting
My car isnt a daily drive, for the noise and power i really dont mind a lumpy idle, stock monaro isnt exactly refined to drive round in a town anyway!
Most people in the states with this cam on a stock 5.7 (which normally means better headers the stock 5.7 monaro, exhaust cai) are around 400-410whp
Ringham has also quoted me for mapping, he is very helpful with this kind of thing
Edited by Phillphill on Wednesday 13th April 10:43
Edited by Phillphill on Wednesday 13th April 10:44
ringram said:
Best quarter mile results on otherwise stock LS1 were from the Texas Speed TREX
242/249-110 or so.
Dont expect it to be good for bumper to bumper traffic jams etc
But something like a 230/238-112 would be better IMO.
Get valve springs at the same time.
And some high ratio rockers and uprated lifters too242/249-110 or so.
Dont expect it to be good for bumper to bumper traffic jams etc
But something like a 230/238-112 would be better IMO.
Get valve springs at the same time.
Aitch 'H' said:
ringram said:
Best quarter mile results on otherwise stock LS1 were from the Texas Speed TREX
242/249-110 or so.
Dont expect it to be good for bumper to bumper traffic jams etc
But something like a 230/238-112 would be better IMO.
Get valve springs at the same time.
And some high ratio rockers and uprated lifters too242/249-110 or so.
Dont expect it to be good for bumper to bumper traffic jams etc
But something like a 230/238-112 would be better IMO.
Get valve springs at the same time.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-tech-perfor...
Ages back I tried to speak to them several times, but they always seemed very uninterested. By contrast Texas Speed pretty much seemed to fall over themselves to be helpful, which is why I'd recommend them. Although that too was a few years back.
TSP also used to have a very active presence on Ls1tech.com, don't know if this is still true.
Yeah, my bad, it was thunder.
Also its duration not lift that affects valve clearance.
Where is the piston at max lift!?
Its IVO and EVC events that determine clearance...
Also forget high ratio rockers. Pointless. Just get the right lift ground into the cam in the first place.
Also higher ratio rockers can affect geometry. Stock heads like a max of just over 0.600 lift valve stems are too short and rockers are not designed for more lift.
Kip is great at cammotion and will grind you whatever you want. I get custom spec stuff done as a matter of course now.
You can usually find something close off the shelf from somewhere. So just figure out spec and shop accordingly.
As an FYI engine master winners run cams in the 24x range with a tight lsa.
Something like 242/248-110 etc which so happens to be similar to trex spec. Alibet with displacement of just over 400 cubes being the norm. More for better unshrouding of the valves to increase flow and also allow larger valves due to wider bore etc..
Here is something close from Kip http://store.cammotion.com/hot-street-stroker---ca...
He will sell you everything you need to go with it.
If you really want to kick arse you should be looking at some mast/afr/tfs heads to go with the cam
I would think you should be looking at over 400rwhp with heads, maybe ~440rwhp or just on 400rwhp with stock heads.
Fast/MSD intakes also just about essential at this level.
But start with cam only for best bhp/£ if that works.
Also its duration not lift that affects valve clearance.
Where is the piston at max lift!?
Its IVO and EVC events that determine clearance...
Also forget high ratio rockers. Pointless. Just get the right lift ground into the cam in the first place.
Also higher ratio rockers can affect geometry. Stock heads like a max of just over 0.600 lift valve stems are too short and rockers are not designed for more lift.
Kip is great at cammotion and will grind you whatever you want. I get custom spec stuff done as a matter of course now.
You can usually find something close off the shelf from somewhere. So just figure out spec and shop accordingly.
As an FYI engine master winners run cams in the 24x range with a tight lsa.
Something like 242/248-110 etc which so happens to be similar to trex spec. Alibet with displacement of just over 400 cubes being the norm. More for better unshrouding of the valves to increase flow and also allow larger valves due to wider bore etc..
Here is something close from Kip http://store.cammotion.com/hot-street-stroker---ca...
He will sell you everything you need to go with it.
If you really want to kick arse you should be looking at some mast/afr/tfs heads to go with the cam
I would think you should be looking at over 400rwhp with heads, maybe ~440rwhp or just on 400rwhp with stock heads.
Fast/MSD intakes also just about essential at this level.
But start with cam only for best bhp/£ if that works.
TheLeatherman said:
Our best daily drive stuff in Oz with low 11's performance came from a Comp Cams 232/234 with a decent tune.
I used to have a Comp 244/248 as a daily driver and it was OK as well as the tune was good and so it was docile enough for the street but 11.02 on the blacktop.
Mine's now 25x/25x in the engine on the ute.
As Ringram says, valve springs are very important to gain stability at high RPM, and try to reduce the valve-train weight where possible. Be careful of lift to avoid any PTV clearance issues.
Have fun!
Hi leatherman are you bringing the ute too Thunder Road this yearI used to have a Comp 244/248 as a daily driver and it was OK as well as the tune was good and so it was docile enough for the street but 11.02 on the blacktop.
Mine's now 25x/25x in the engine on the ute.
As Ringram says, valve springs are very important to gain stability at high RPM, and try to reduce the valve-train weight where possible. Be careful of lift to avoid any PTV clearance issues.
Have fun!
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