Nelson Race Engines
Discussion
If you are thinking of building a 1000HP TT street engine, this may be of interest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGKhiO_tLkk .Nice, neat bolt-on intake and clearly a lot of development has gone into it. Don't know how much it is or if the kit includes turbos & pipework?
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 19th February 13:34
Looks very nice.
I did a similar thing on my Rv8 20 years ago. Modded the stock plenum to accept twin copper chargecoolers and I fitted two cable throttle bodies feeding into each side of the plenum. I was able to use core thicknesses of up to 70 mm. The 'cooling' core was mounted at the back of the car under the spoiler and was almost 3 ft wide. It all worked quite well but I did prefer a simple water injection set up that I had at the time.
If I did it again I'd definately use the water injection and maybe use remote intercoolers along with a stock plenum.
I did a similar thing on my Rv8 20 years ago. Modded the stock plenum to accept twin copper chargecoolers and I fitted two cable throttle bodies feeding into each side of the plenum. I was able to use core thicknesses of up to 70 mm. The 'cooling' core was mounted at the back of the car under the spoiler and was almost 3 ft wide. It all worked quite well but I did prefer a simple water injection set up that I had at the time.
If I did it again I'd definately use the water injection and maybe use remote intercoolers along with a stock plenum.
I'll use a pair of these, Lockheed missile space company 
They aren't very large and can bolt to a rocker cover. Being military I suspect they'll have been made to a decent specification. Hose diameter is appx 2". Inside, each honeycomb has a tang within it which slows the airflow down slightly.
I also considered a 90mm i/d charge cooler directly in front of the throttle. As long as it was supplied with cool water I think it may work well enough. Big isn't always best, it's how you uses it that counts
.
They aren't very large and can bolt to a rocker cover. Being military I suspect they'll have been made to a decent specification. Hose diameter is appx 2". Inside, each honeycomb has a tang within it which slows the airflow down slightly.
I also considered a 90mm i/d charge cooler directly in front of the throttle. As long as it was supplied with cool water I think it may work well enough. Big isn't always best, it's how you uses it that counts
.We all know it's the fabrication that costs money and even then it's a bit of trial and error to make everything work. Would be great if this was a simple, quality bolt on with a known outcome. Love the fact they got those results on rubbish fuel using the OE ecu and all the ancillaries attached. Sort of implies it's designed as a bolt on and they can slick one in the post.
It's probably quite difficult to make a chargecooler that doesn't help in some way. Even a poor one should reduce temps but that depends on many things. That item looks quite heavy, assuming it's an aluminium casting with a 5 mm wall thickness.
Also they will boil if the coolant stops flowing for any reason and the popping and banging certainly gets your attention. When you're static they add heat to the inlet charge unless you have a boot mounted core with a huge fan attached. I once used a freon core in the boot in stead of having a spare wheel.
Also they will boil if the coolant stops flowing for any reason and the popping and banging certainly gets your attention. When you're static they add heat to the inlet charge unless you have a boot mounted core with a huge fan attached. I once used a freon core in the boot in stead of having a spare wheel.
wormus said:
If you are thinking of building a 1000HP TT street engine, this may be of interest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGKhiO_tLkk .Nice, neat bolt-on intake and clearly a lot of development has gone into it. Don't know how much it is or if the kit includes turbos & pipework?
I doubt NRE sell anything in kit form.Edited by wormus on Friday 19th February 13:34
It would either be full builds or turnkey engine packages.
And I'd say it's a safe bet you'd be very happy to get change from that from that full package from 100k. If 100k even covers it.
Although why they think the engine starting and idling is a big deal....that would worry me ! lol
His comments about boost before and after the intercooler are odd too...and seem to be the reverse of what he says, just a small error on his part though.
Also seems a waste to install an intake that is usually aimed at high revving engines...onto something they barely take past 6k. it is a nice intake though !
IC design does explain the high charge temps, even though he says they are cool.
Plug changes look a nightmare too !
Also strikes me as odd....and maybe it's hard to tell from the info given. But their dyno screenshots start at 3k, it sounds like they're nailing the throttle around this...yet it still takes until nearly 4k before full boost has been reached.
For a 427 and only 1000hp...and an engine they're only taking to 6100rpm...that doesnt seem overly impressive.
It has some nice features but few that would really justify their prices.
ArnieVXR said:
Or you could just buy a FAST intake and an aftermarket air-to-air inter cooler. Job done.
They seem to sell it as an easy compact package, no big intercooler or pipework up front...and to a degree yes. The direct path from turbo to intake is probably a good thingHe did fail to mention that you'd still need pipework, pump and a large water radiator up front though. So little odds really and a good A2A will cool better than the temps he was seeing on the dyno.
But it is still a very neat package....but would be a f
king nightmare to work around !stevieturbo said:
Most dyno pulls seem to start around 3k for some reason. Pluck a few graphs even from this forum....few if any start below 3k.
Ok, I've limited experience of the way dyno operators run but I've only ever seen a pull from idle to max rpm presumably at wot.I get the traces starting at 3k but I've never seen a pull where the operator seems to spin up the turbos prior to the pull.
Perhaps that's the proper way to pull a turbo install and we've been doing it wrong.
Xpuffin said:
Ok, I've limited experience of the way dyno operators run but I've only ever seen a pull from idle to max rpm presumably at wot.
I get the traces starting at 3k but I've never seen a pull where the operator seems to spin up the turbos prior to the pull.
Perhaps that's the proper way to pull a turbo install and we've been doing it wrong.
I think the noise is confusing.I get the traces starting at 3k but I've never seen a pull where the operator seems to spin up the turbos prior to the pull.
Perhaps that's the proper way to pull a turbo install and we've been doing it wrong.
Operator usually sets a run start rpm...and this rpm can be held prior to allowing it to proceed. This is maybe the dip you hear where the throttle is opened and the dyno fights to hold the rpm prior to run starting.
Although that's an engine dyno, RR should be similar. I'm sure Charlie could say better how it all works though
Xpuffin said:
Thats got more lag than a Sierra Cosworth.
Who does a dyno pull like that.
It shouldn't be laggy though. It's c/r will be reasonably high unless they used a stupidly short con-rod. It's got plenty of capacity to. I wouldn't expect the turbo's to be overly large given the HP.Who does a dyno pull like that.
Boosted LS1 said:
It shouldn't be laggy though. It's c/r will be reasonably high unless they used a stupidly short con-rod. It's got plenty of capacity to. I wouldn't expect the turbo's to be overly large given the HP.
They repeat a few times about running it on 91 octane, so I'd say CR is conservative. But it does look fairly laggy for a 7.0, but then without seeing it perform in a car in real world conditions...really hard to say.Not that it needs more boost low down anyway, it's still making loads of power/torque
stevieturbo said:
They repeat a few times about running it on 91 octane, so I'd say CR is conservative. But it does look fairly laggy for a 7.0, but then without seeing it perform in a car in real world conditions...really hard to say.
Not that it needs more boost low down anyway, it's still making loads of power/torque
My point was that on a 427 with stockish heads there isn't any room for a decent bowl in the piston due to the little end being in the way. They'll be running about 9:1 c/r hence the tame cam and longevity promotions which is fair enough. Given those specs, who needs a chargecooler intake as complex as that? A quick shot of water would would do the trick or a simpler chargecooler. Not that it needs more boost low down anyway, it's still making loads of power/torque
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