Bit of help needed electrics.
Discussion
I have a VZ Maloo with LS2. Its been on the lift for a while and I found the battery had packed up and i need to get it ready for logging.
The battery was as flat as a pancake even though I had an Optimate 4 plugged in.
I attached the works charger to the battery but someone had changed the output to 24 Volts and I hadn't noticed. All of a sudden the ABS unit starts to pump like hell. I disconnected the battery pronto and went out and bought a replacement.
When I got the new battery installed the ABS pump swung into action again and I noticed a burning smell in the cab. No dashbord lights and no starting. I have checked all the fuses but not the relays have a dead Ute on my hands. Did I kill it feeding in 24 volts? Whats the possible damage?
Any form of trouble shooting guide would help. I hope I haven;t blown the ECU or BCM???
Thanks in anticipation.
The battery was as flat as a pancake even though I had an Optimate 4 plugged in.
I attached the works charger to the battery but someone had changed the output to 24 Volts and I hadn't noticed. All of a sudden the ABS unit starts to pump like hell. I disconnected the battery pronto and went out and bought a replacement.
When I got the new battery installed the ABS pump swung into action again and I noticed a burning smell in the cab. No dashbord lights and no starting. I have checked all the fuses but not the relays have a dead Ute on my hands. Did I kill it feeding in 24 volts? Whats the possible damage?
Any form of trouble shooting guide would help. I hope I haven;t blown the ECU or BCM???
Thanks in anticipation.
Good question...and I'd say there is a good chance of lots of things being damaged.
Most stuff can usually tolerate 16, 17 and maybe 18volts.
24v is a huge increase though
If you key on, does anything at all work ? fuel pump prime ? any comms with the ecu either via OBD, HPT, EFILive etc ?
Most stuff can usually tolerate 16, 17 and maybe 18volts.
24v is a huge increase though
If you key on, does anything at all work ? fuel pump prime ? any comms with the ecu either via OBD, HPT, EFILive etc ?
stevieturbo said:
Good question...and I'd say there is a good chance of lots of things being damaged.
Most stuff can usually tolerate 16, 17 and maybe 18 volts.
24v is a huge increase though
If you key on, does anything at all work ? fuel pump prime ? any comms with the ecu either via OBD, HPT, EFILive etc ?
Nothing on the dash cant hear a fuel pump.Most stuff can usually tolerate 16, 17 and maybe 18 volts.
24v is a huge increase though
If you key on, does anything at all work ? fuel pump prime ? any comms with the ecu either via OBD, HPT, EFILive etc ?
I have to say that with the ABS pump taking off on its own I suspect the BCM at least if toast.
Must say I wasn't totally responsible. I had a too willing assistant connecting battery and switching on before I had checked stuff. I normally work alone on my cars.
Edited by MyM8V8 on Monday 15th February 21:07
MyM8V8 said:
Nothing on the dash cant hear a fuel pump.
I have to say that with the ABS pump taking off on its own I suspect the BCM at least if toast.
Must say I wasn't totally responsible. I had a too willing assistant connecting battery and switching on before I had checked stuff. I normally work alone on my cars.
Hopefully some sort of fuse or fuses somewhere has blown, but I wouldnt like to be in your shoes.I have to say that with the ABS pump taking off on its own I suspect the BCM at least if toast.
Must say I wasn't totally responsible. I had a too willing assistant connecting battery and switching on before I had checked stuff. I normally work alone on my cars.
Edited by MyM8V8 on Monday 15th February 21:07
Sometimes st just happens, unfortunately something like this really has the potential for lots of nasty damage.
I'd try for some sort of ecu comms first of all or check for power at the ecu too.
I designed a body controller (climate control ECU) for Volvo S40 upgrade in ~1999, through Motorola. The spec that I had to comply with was that the unit had to withstand 24V (probably more, but I can't recall the detail) without any damage.
Maybe Volvo are more stringent than other automotive manufacturers. The rational was that cars left in transit for months on a ferry and had a flat battery would be jumped from a truck with 24V.
The ECU was required to be very robust electrically; reverse polarity connections, outputs shorted and so on.
I presumed this was fairly standard for automotive electronic design.
Maybe Volvo are more stringent than other automotive manufacturers. The rational was that cars left in transit for months on a ferry and had a flat battery would be jumped from a truck with 24V.
The ECU was required to be very robust electrically; reverse polarity connections, outputs shorted and so on.
I presumed this was fairly standard for automotive electronic design.
SteveMJ said:
I designed a body controller (climate control ECU) for Volvo S40 upgrade in ~1999, through Motorola. The spec that I had to comply with was that the unit had to withstand 24V (probably more, but I can't recall the detail) without any damage.
Maybe Volvo are more stringent than other automotive manufacturers. The rational was that cars left in transit for months on a ferry and had a flat battery would be jumped from a truck with 24V.
The ECU was required to be very robust electrically; reverse polarity connections, outputs shorted and so on.
I presumed this was fairly standard for automotive electronic design.
Thanks Steve. I really hope so!Maybe Volvo are more stringent than other automotive manufacturers. The rational was that cars left in transit for months on a ferry and had a flat battery would be jumped from a truck with 24V.
The ECU was required to be very robust electrically; reverse polarity connections, outputs shorted and so on.
I presumed this was fairly standard for automotive electronic design.
ARAF said:
MyM8V8 said:
Thanks Steve. I really hope so!
You may even find that the the components are internally fused for these reasons. Fingers crossed for you.M11 MFP said:
liam1986 said:
delete this thread, get the car recovered to vx and play dumb
It's a VZ (ls2) Maloo, not the VF, Liam. Not too sure VX will play ball with the anon arrival of a 10 year old ute. ARAF said:
M11 MFP said:
liam1986 said:
delete this thread, get the car recovered to vx and play dumb
It's a VZ (ls2) Maloo, not the VF, Liam. Not too sure VX will play ball with the anon arrival of a 10 year old ute. I have been getting some troubleshooting tips from a nearby Australian though. Sadly it will have to be elft on the lift again as really busy with work again.
SturdyHSV said:
I'll start the bidding at £20.
Seriously though I really hope it's nothing too serious, desperately want to see that monster on the road!
I spoke with an autosparks today. He thinks the brains are all fried, but I need to get my meter on to it. I got a aweful feeling this is going to be bloody tricky to sort out.Seriously though I really hope it's nothing too serious, desperately want to see that monster on the road!
MyM8V8 said:
I spoke with an autosparks today. He thinks the brains are all fried, but I need to get my meter on to it. I got a aweful feeling this is going to be bloody tricky to sort out.
Do you have Tech2 or similar ?That would allow you to communicate with all the different modules and maybe get an idea which ones are fried.
How much integration is there of systems ? ie do they do all that silly st where all modules must be hooked up and working before anything in the car will work properly ?
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