Rebuilding the beast (Monaro VXR 6.0)
Discussion
I'm the proud owner of a black Monaro VXR 6.0. It's an earlier one, and was in fact registered in 05, not long after the 5.7 VXR was current.
It's quite high mileage now having done 125k, and it's starting to show especially under the car. I live in a wet/muddy rural area which is pretty harsh on vehicles, but I still use it and drive it most days as I enjoy it so much.
Having recently had it up on a ramp for inspection it needs a fair bit doing, many of the bushes are shot, one of rear bearings has play, the rear discs are toast, the diff is leaking oil from the input shaft somewhere and probably needs rebuilding, one of the front callipers is sticking, the exhaust is hanging off, list goes on!
Despite the problems I'm quite fond of it, it's my first "real" car and I'd like to get it back to a decent condition. I got the car at about 119K and was hanging together but everything seems to be suddenly deteriorating at once, as tends to be the case with cars in general.
My pie in the sky plan, which I'm not entirely sure how viable or worthwhile, would be this:
Is this worthwhile / feasible? I'm willing to do as much of the work myself as I can manage, and I know a friendly mechanic who may be able to assist in some parts. I'm no mechanic myself but I'm technically minded and meticulous. The engine and gearbox are currently fine, I'd love to do some power upgrades eventually but it would be idiotic at this point given the other work that needs doing.
If anyone could give some general advice or pointers in undertaking this that would be great, obviously being a fairly big undertaking I don't expect any hand holding!
It's quite high mileage now having done 125k, and it's starting to show especially under the car. I live in a wet/muddy rural area which is pretty harsh on vehicles, but I still use it and drive it most days as I enjoy it so much.
Having recently had it up on a ramp for inspection it needs a fair bit doing, many of the bushes are shot, one of rear bearings has play, the rear discs are toast, the diff is leaking oil from the input shaft somewhere and probably needs rebuilding, one of the front callipers is sticking, the exhaust is hanging off, list goes on!
Despite the problems I'm quite fond of it, it's my first "real" car and I'd like to get it back to a decent condition. I got the car at about 119K and was hanging together but everything seems to be suddenly deteriorating at once, as tends to be the case with cars in general.
My pie in the sky plan, which I'm not entirely sure how viable or worthwhile, would be this:
- Remove the front and rear subframes and associated suspension bits
- Remove the engine and gearbox
- Remove the bumpers and side skirts
- Thoroughly clean all exposed surfaces
- Inspect everything for rust, wire wool or otherwise remove rust from all found spots
- Paint everything with X layers of SOMETHING, being some kind of paint or coating ideal for the underside of cars? Perhaps a layer of some kind of rust protection then paint over that, I genuinely don't know the best solution here. The idea would be a fairly tough new finish and halt / remove as much existing rust as possible
- Remove all bushes from all suspension components, clean/strip/repaint or otherwise treat all control arms and subframe, rods, etc, renew all bushes with decent after-market types
- Reassemble the whole lot with Pedders shockers/springs and rebuilt diff
- Eventually add AP brakes but likely just use new discs/pads on stock brakes to go on with
Is this worthwhile / feasible? I'm willing to do as much of the work myself as I can manage, and I know a friendly mechanic who may be able to assist in some parts. I'm no mechanic myself but I'm technically minded and meticulous. The engine and gearbox are currently fine, I'd love to do some power upgrades eventually but it would be idiotic at this point given the other work that needs doing.
If anyone could give some general advice or pointers in undertaking this that would be great, obviously being a fairly big undertaking I don't expect any hand holding!
Edited by MonaroMad on Sunday 10th January 18:44
Before you get started, check that the sills and chassis sections that run down the front bulkhead and then under the car aren't seriously rotted. You may want to rethink what you're doing with the car if they are. The plastic sill guards are held on at the back with a mastic, so it's not easy to get a proper look without doing a bit of dismantling.
These cars rot from the inside, so while painting visible surfaces is a great idea, you need to get waxoyl professionally injected into you box sections and hard to reach places. Don't be tempted to try this yourself, as it's unlikely you'll do a good job. Ensure you use a modern product on the visible surfaces, avoiding the old school bitumen style underseal.
The rear sub-frame needs professionally refitting with an alignment tool that is hard to come by. You'll be after a four wheel alignment too, I'd guess. If you do take it off, use the opportunity to replace the brake pipes (using copper-nickel) and fuel line. All in, I'd say the Monkfish service would save you a load of hassle. Get the poly bushes done at the same time.
You can still get brand new OEM 2005 prop-shafts off ebay.com (search for Pontiac GTO 2005 driveshaft) for around $700 and the donuts are available for a decent price if you search for "Dorman driveshaft coupler 935-105" (the 2004 VXR part is 935-106).
BTW I might have an 18,000 mile 2005 VXR diff sat in my garage that I'll never use...
At the mileage on your car, I'd suggest that you get the spigot bearing replaced, before you lose the gearbox.
These cars rot from the inside, so while painting visible surfaces is a great idea, you need to get waxoyl professionally injected into you box sections and hard to reach places. Don't be tempted to try this yourself, as it's unlikely you'll do a good job. Ensure you use a modern product on the visible surfaces, avoiding the old school bitumen style underseal.
The rear sub-frame needs professionally refitting with an alignment tool that is hard to come by. You'll be after a four wheel alignment too, I'd guess. If you do take it off, use the opportunity to replace the brake pipes (using copper-nickel) and fuel line. All in, I'd say the Monkfish service would save you a load of hassle. Get the poly bushes done at the same time.
You can still get brand new OEM 2005 prop-shafts off ebay.com (search for Pontiac GTO 2005 driveshaft) for around $700 and the donuts are available for a decent price if you search for "Dorman driveshaft coupler 935-105" (the 2004 VXR part is 935-106).
BTW I might have an 18,000 mile 2005 VXR diff sat in my garage that I'll never use...
At the mileage on your car, I'd suggest that you get the spigot bearing replaced, before you lose the gearbox.
ArnieVXR said:
Before you get started, check that the sills and chassis sections that run down the front bulkhead and then under the car aren't seriously rotted. You may want to rethink what you're doing with the car if they are. The plastic sill guards are held on at the back with a mastic, so it's not easy to get a proper look without doing a bit of dismantling.
These cars rot from the inside, so while painting visible surfaces is a great idea, you need to get waxoyl professionally injected into you box sections and hard to reach places. Don't be tempted to try this yourself, as it's unlikely you'll do a good job. Ensure you use a modern product on the visible surfaces, avoiding the old school bitumen style underseal.
The rear sub-frame needs professionally refitting with an alignment tool that is hard to come by. You'll be after a four wheel alignment too, I'd guess. If you do take it off, use the opportunity to replace the brake pipes (using copper-nickel) and fuel line. All in, I'd say the Monkfish service would save you a load of hassle. Get the poly bushes done at the same time.
You can still get brand new OEM 2005 prop-shafts off ebay.com (search for Pontiac GTO 2005 driveshaft) for around $700 and the donuts are available for a decent price if you search for "Dorman driveshaft coupler 935-105" (the 2004 VXR part is 935-106).
BTW I might have an 18,000 mile 2005 VXR diff sat in my garage that I'll never use...
At the mileage on your car, I'd suggest that you get the spigot bearing replaced, before you lose the gearbox.
Just be a bit careful. The doughnuts on the LS2 6.0L cars are a different size to the LS1,s and if the car has not been abused these should be OK. Just inspect them carefully for radial cracking. Its and easy job to remove and replace.These cars rot from the inside, so while painting visible surfaces is a great idea, you need to get waxoyl professionally injected into you box sections and hard to reach places. Don't be tempted to try this yourself, as it's unlikely you'll do a good job. Ensure you use a modern product on the visible surfaces, avoiding the old school bitumen style underseal.
The rear sub-frame needs professionally refitting with an alignment tool that is hard to come by. You'll be after a four wheel alignment too, I'd guess. If you do take it off, use the opportunity to replace the brake pipes (using copper-nickel) and fuel line. All in, I'd say the Monkfish service would save you a load of hassle. Get the poly bushes done at the same time.
You can still get brand new OEM 2005 prop-shafts off ebay.com (search for Pontiac GTO 2005 driveshaft) for around $700 and the donuts are available for a decent price if you search for "Dorman driveshaft coupler 935-105" (the 2004 VXR part is 935-106).
BTW I might have an 18,000 mile 2005 VXR diff sat in my garage that I'll never use...
At the mileage on your car, I'd suggest that you get the spigot bearing replaced, before you lose the gearbox.
Prop shaft centre bearings can be replaced if worn so there should not be a need to replace the prop.
One thing to watch out for is the abs hall sensors on the diff. These will be seized in and very difficult, if not impossible, to get out and the mounting lugs can be broken easily. Best to detach the leads and leave them on the diff cover plate.
Many thanks for the replies both of you.
Indeed, an inspection of the vital structural parts would be done to make sure it's actually worth doing. As far as I could tell when I was under it on the ramp, MOST of it is pretty decent still, just a few worrisome spots.
I agree Re: the professional waxoyling on the box sections, clearly this will be something out of my ability so will have to look at getting it done.
Both replies so far taken on board
Indeed, an inspection of the vital structural parts would be done to make sure it's actually worth doing. As far as I could tell when I was under it on the ramp, MOST of it is pretty decent still, just a few worrisome spots.
I agree Re: the professional waxoyling on the box sections, clearly this will be something out of my ability so will have to look at getting it done.
Both replies so far taken on board
Well, I've had her up on the ramp again, this time to take some pictures. In hindsight it's not as bad as I thought, in fact it's actually in pretty good nick all things considered (as far as I'm able to judge from my limited experience)
The main rust spots, which are along the front chassis rails, appear to have been caused by heat from the exhaust headers. They're in the same place on both sides.
(Click thumbnails to enlarge)
As far as I can see that's pretty much the worst part of the problem. Regardless of how I address the rust, I will likely wrap the headers (a good idea anyway) and maybe make up a little heat shield to go around those bits. Should be a neat fix.
The area around the diff is a bit crusty, mainly the bracket at the back of it. Probably easy to clean up or replace if necessary
I took many more of the (Cornish mud covered) underside in an imgur album here: https://imgur.com/a/Kn46Z/
If anyone can check for any horrendous issues in the images that would be great
The main rust spots, which are along the front chassis rails, appear to have been caused by heat from the exhaust headers. They're in the same place on both sides.
(Click thumbnails to enlarge)
As far as I can see that's pretty much the worst part of the problem. Regardless of how I address the rust, I will likely wrap the headers (a good idea anyway) and maybe make up a little heat shield to go around those bits. Should be a neat fix.
The area around the diff is a bit crusty, mainly the bracket at the back of it. Probably easy to clean up or replace if necessary
I took many more of the (Cornish mud covered) underside in an imgur album here: https://imgur.com/a/Kn46Z/
If anyone can check for any horrendous issues in the images that would be great
ArnieVXR said:
Have you checked the ends of the sills? They go quite readily there.
I can't imagine the wrap would stop the rails corroding. You need to get them (a) properly repaired and (b) covered in wax.
Absolutely, I fully intend to repair damage here. I can't imagine the wrap would stop the rails corroding. You need to get them (a) properly repaired and (b) covered in wax.
Regarding the sills, I will take off the side skirts and thoroughly check them over for sure.
ArnieVXR said:
Skirts are a bit of a pain to remove. The length between the door and the rear arch is 'glued' on, so you need to work it with a sharp knife. You'll probably break the scrivets and curse a lot 
Worth it to inspect under them!The sills are what worry me most. The mud that collects up on the corners under the wheel arches at the rear end and to a lesser extent the front makes me cringe, I make a point to blast it out every time I wash the car, but still, not good.
Just found a very inspirational thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Will definitely gleam some tips from this. This is certainly the sort of quality job I would like to do for sure.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Will definitely gleam some tips from this. This is certainly the sort of quality job I would like to do for sure.
Anyone got any tips on how to remove underseal without damaging galvanization? I'm not even sure if the car is undersealed or it's just caked with mud. I'm at a bit of a crossroads I don't want to make things potentially much worse by removing both under seal and damaging the zinc plating.
I don't plan on touching anything until I have a clear and sensible view of what's achievable without resorting to overkill.
I'm pretty stuck now, would it be that hard to remove the existing under seal without losing the will to live? Is it worth it??
I don't plan on touching anything until I have a clear and sensible view of what's achievable without resorting to overkill.
I'm pretty stuck now, would it be that hard to remove the existing under seal without losing the will to live? Is it worth it??
Edited by MonaroMad on Saturday 30th January 20:37
Edited by MonaroMad on Saturday 30th January 20:39
Here's a pic of what I mean, I regret not physically feeling it or giving it a gentle poke. Is this caked on mud or some form of underseal or sound deadening? It looks like something has been sprayed on at some point. There are similar patterns in the engine bay, too, on parts that aren't facing downwards. I've not seen this on pictures of other Monaro undersides.
I desperately need some way to get the car up myself.
I desperately need some way to get the car up myself.
neiljohnson said:
There is very little under seal on the monaro in the picture it looks like it is very dirty under there
A good steam clean will give you a good idea of what's what
Fully agreed, I need to either obtain a decent steam cleaner or take it somewhere. Can't start anything with the current mess that's for sure.A good steam clean will give you a good idea of what's what
Edited by MonaroMad on Monday 1st February 10:46
MonaroMad said:
Just found a very inspirational thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Will definitely gleam some tips from this. This is certainly the sort of quality job I would like to do for sure.
glad someone found it useful.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Will definitely gleam some tips from this. This is certainly the sort of quality job I would like to do for sure.
Some areas could do with touching up though and i really need to redo the internals of the box sections
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