My Supercharged Monaro build
Discussion
This is nothing crazy but i thought that id post a mini build thread
Engine spec
Standard LS1 short block
241 casting heads tidied up
ARP head studs
LS9 head gaskets
Lightly Ported FAST92 intake
92mm throttle body
222/230 114LSA cam
Katech belt tensioner
LS6 timing chain guide
C5R timing chain
Edelbrock split timing cover
All 4 steam ports run to the radiator
Brian Tooley Dual springs with Ti retainers
Brian Tooley SLR lifters
Brian Tooley trunion upgrade
Exhaust
Capa ceramic coated 1 5/8 long tube headers - may upgrade to 1 7/8 longtubes at a later stage
Wortec 2.5" catback exhaust
Forced Induction
Vortech V2 supercharger – Crank Cog driven - around 9 PSI but need to check blower speeds - Crank pinned
Big front mount intercooler with 3" pipework
4 Inch intake pipe to the supercharger with large airfilter mounted in the front wheel arch
Tial 50 BOV
Oiling
Improved Racing oil cooler adapter
Melling Oil pump
Improved racing baffled sump
13 Row Oil cooler
13 Row Power Steering Cooler
Water/Meth
Devils Own water/methanol injection.
Twin nozzle setup with one small nozzle pre supercharger and pre throttle body
Fuel
ID1000 injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump – still to order
FAST fuel rails with braided fittings
Clutch/Drivetrain
ACT twin plate clutch
Bigger bore Adjustable master cylinder
Bigger clutch reservoir
Modified aluminium bell housing
All clutch line lagged with DEI reflective heat wrap
Kaaz 2 way diff with 3.46 gears
Gforce1320 level 2 anti wheel hop driveshafts
Gforce1320 300m inner stubs
GMM ripshifter
Remote clutch bleed line
Suspension
Fully polybushed with Pedders bushes
Pedders 3 way coilovers
Pedders anti roll bars
Pedders Quick rack
Pedders strut brace
Wheels
Team Dyanamics Pro Race 1.2S 18x8J ET45
Brakes
AP racing brakes
Front - 6 piston calipers with 363mm discs and CL RC5+ pads
Rear - 4 piston calipers with 342mm discs and DS2500 pads
Tuning
EFI Live tuned by myself
Final Power
Hoping to make approx 600-650hp at the crank and rev the engine to approx 6600rpm
I will update the spec as i go along, along with photos
I am currently in the process of removing the engine and gearbox from the car
This is the best photo i have of the engine before
This was after a few hours last night
Engine spec
Standard LS1 short block
241 casting heads tidied up
ARP head studs
LS9 head gaskets
Lightly Ported FAST92 intake
92mm throttle body
222/230 114LSA cam
Katech belt tensioner
LS6 timing chain guide
C5R timing chain
Edelbrock split timing cover
All 4 steam ports run to the radiator
Brian Tooley Dual springs with Ti retainers
Brian Tooley SLR lifters
Brian Tooley trunion upgrade
Exhaust
Capa ceramic coated 1 5/8 long tube headers - may upgrade to 1 7/8 longtubes at a later stage
Wortec 2.5" catback exhaust
Forced Induction
Vortech V2 supercharger – Crank Cog driven - around 9 PSI but need to check blower speeds - Crank pinned
Big front mount intercooler with 3" pipework
4 Inch intake pipe to the supercharger with large airfilter mounted in the front wheel arch
Tial 50 BOV
Oiling
Improved Racing oil cooler adapter
Melling Oil pump
Improved racing baffled sump
13 Row Oil cooler
13 Row Power Steering Cooler
Water/Meth
Devils Own water/methanol injection.
Twin nozzle setup with one small nozzle pre supercharger and pre throttle body
Fuel
ID1000 injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump – still to order
FAST fuel rails with braided fittings
Clutch/Drivetrain
ACT twin plate clutch
Bigger bore Adjustable master cylinder
Bigger clutch reservoir
Modified aluminium bell housing
All clutch line lagged with DEI reflective heat wrap
Kaaz 2 way diff with 3.46 gears
Gforce1320 level 2 anti wheel hop driveshafts
Gforce1320 300m inner stubs
GMM ripshifter
Remote clutch bleed line
Suspension
Fully polybushed with Pedders bushes
Pedders 3 way coilovers
Pedders anti roll bars
Pedders Quick rack
Pedders strut brace
Wheels
Team Dyanamics Pro Race 1.2S 18x8J ET45
Brakes
AP racing brakes
Front - 6 piston calipers with 363mm discs and CL RC5+ pads
Rear - 4 piston calipers with 342mm discs and DS2500 pads
Tuning
EFI Live tuned by myself
Final Power
Hoping to make approx 600-650hp at the crank and rev the engine to approx 6600rpm
I will update the spec as i go along, along with photos
I am currently in the process of removing the engine and gearbox from the car
This is the best photo i have of the engine before
This was after a few hours last night
Edited by gsd2000 on Thursday 26th December 12:46
Edited by gsd2000 on Thursday 13th February 16:48
Standard pistons for now
I want to get this running good, first. Long term I will add some good heads, bigger cam, bigger exhaust, forged pistons and rods along with a much bigger fuel system.
Plus ive never built a car engine before. Ive done plenty of aero engines but nothing automotive. So should be interesting.
I want to get this running good, first. Long term I will add some good heads, bigger cam, bigger exhaust, forged pistons and rods along with a much bigger fuel system.
Plus ive never built a car engine before. Ive done plenty of aero engines but nothing automotive. So should be interesting.
Your heads and then exhaust are the next bottlenecks then.
Pity you couldn't fix the dart's.
I think the cam is the last thing you should do. What you have there should be good for around town and general driving. Any bigger on the LS1 and you will start to get trade off's IMO
Better to go for 70cc heads to drop compression and wind boost up..!?
Pity you couldn't fix the dart's.
I think the cam is the last thing you should do. What you have there should be good for around town and general driving. Any bigger on the LS1 and you will start to get trade off's IMO
Better to go for 70cc heads to drop compression and wind boost up..!?
One reason i havent done pistons now is cost.
When i forge i want to work out my ideal static compression ratio and then choose a set of pistons and rods to suit the heads.
Once ive done that i can pick a cam that will help the engine to pull to 7k rpm
For now i want to get it working, but swapping the sump in situ is a pain due to the cross member and i dont fancy drilling a sump in situ.
Im also planning on making some braided power steering lines, to make it easier if i ever need to fit stock headers and cats, along with rust proofing the engine bay
When i forge i want to work out my ideal static compression ratio and then choose a set of pistons and rods to suit the heads.
Once ive done that i can pick a cam that will help the engine to pull to 7k rpm
For now i want to get it working, but swapping the sump in situ is a pain due to the cross member and i dont fancy drilling a sump in situ.
Im also planning on making some braided power steering lines, to make it easier if i ever need to fit stock headers and cats, along with rust proofing the engine bay
ringram said:
Your heads and then exhaust are the next bottlenecks then.
Pity you couldn't fix the dart's.
I think the cam is the last thing you should do. What you have there should be good for around town and general driving. Any bigger on the LS1 and you will start to get trade off's IMO
Better to go for 70cc heads to drop compression and wind boost up..!?
Every single valve guide boss on the Dart heads are cracked. I took a risk and it went wrong.Pity you couldn't fix the dart's.
I think the cam is the last thing you should do. What you have there should be good for around town and general driving. Any bigger on the LS1 and you will start to get trade off's IMO
Better to go for 70cc heads to drop compression and wind boost up..!?
Oh well maybe there is some scrap value in them
gsd2000 said:
One reason i havent done pistons now is cost.
When i forge i want to work out my ideal static compression ratio and then choose a set of pistons and rods to suit the heads.
Once ive done that i can pick a cam that will help the engine to pull to 7k rpm
For now i want to get it working, but swapping the sump in situ is a pain due to the cross member and i dont fancy drilling a sump in situ.
Im also planning on making some braided power steering lines, to make it easier if i ever need to fit stock headers and cats, along with rust proofing the engine bay
If your going to pull the engine out I would wait till you've got the rest When i forge i want to work out my ideal static compression ratio and then choose a set of pistons and rods to suit the heads.
Once ive done that i can pick a cam that will help the engine to pull to 7k rpm
For now i want to get it working, but swapping the sump in situ is a pain due to the cross member and i dont fancy drilling a sump in situ.
Im also planning on making some braided power steering lines, to make it easier if i ever need to fit stock headers and cats, along with rust proofing the engine bay
But as your doing the work your self I surpose it doesn't really mater
Looks like it's going to be stout! Props for doing this outside on your own as well. I normally work on a lift and even then I'm pulling my hairs out.
I'll keep an eye out for a forged rotating assembly and if I see a good deal, I'll let you know. I know you don't plan on going that route for the moment but some deals are just too good to pass up.
I'll keep an eye out for a forged rotating assembly and if I see a good deal, I'll let you know. I know you don't plan on going that route for the moment but some deals are just too good to pass up.
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