My Monaro Audio Write Up
Discussion
i have received several requests lately for details on the audio install i have have done in my Monaro.
this thread will detail all the install and the challenges i had to over come to fit the system, plus it will also out line the standard audio specs.
first off. the standard setup.
The Head Unit..
it is a Six disc in dash CD changer it is a very good unit for a standard item but sadly lacks the functionality to play MP3's or have Ipod connectivity / aux with out some hard work, plus the radio does not handle RDS.
The Speakers.
believe it or not but the standard Monaro audio set-up is a 8 speaker set-up in the following config.
a pair of 2inch tweeters in the dash, in the top corners. these are "filtered" via a in-line capacitor and are driven off the front door speakers.
in the front doors are a pair of 6inch woofers, these are paper cones.
in the rear door cards at the bottom are a pair of two way 6inch woofers, also paper cones.
in the rear deck are two 6inch Sub Woofers, also paper cones, these are driven by a small 40watt amp that sits in the boot, it can be found behind the carpet on the left hand side. (pull the carpet away and stuck your hand down the side and you will be-able to feel it.) the amp does have a small volume control it so you can adjust the bass level. these subs are run off the rear speaker channels.
not all the standard speakers are rated at 2 ohms, for all those that don't understand speaker ratings the higher the ohm number the higher the quality of the speaker and the sound it produces, although the higher the ohms the quieter the sound is so bigger amps are required.
now for my setup...
i completely gutted the audio system and fitting the following
6inch crunch GTS components
6inch Crunch Ground Pounder 2 way speakers
6inch dual voice coil elemental audio subs
900watt JVC stereo amplifier.
revo-sys x200 car pc.
some sound proofing
starting with the speakers and there fitting.
i stripped the panels of the car and removed the rear seats to gain access to all the speakers. guides for doing this can be found here in the FAQ's
once all the panels where off i removed all the speakers from there housings and let the fun began.
fitting the tweeters for the components in the dash was really easy, i just had to remove the old tweeter from the mounting bracket it sits on in the dash and then screw the new ones in please using the correct machine screw, i then fed the wires down though the dash to the driver and passenger foot-wells where i had the cross overs waiting.
i then removed the panels in the side of the foot-wells so i could gain access to the rubber grommet where the wires pass though to the doors and proceeded to carefully using a old coat hanger pass the wires though so i could connect the components up to the crossover. (please note the input from the crossovers is taken from the standard wiring loom in the car.
with the wires in place i though great and started to try and fit the speakers into the door pods only to find out there was a very small difference in the recess size on the pods compared to the speakers. i sat there for a moment and scratched my head and thought all they need is a 5mm spacer so i went out and got a sheet of MDF and made a template up out of a bit of cardboard and proceeded to make the spacers. (they can be seen in the pics)
once the spacers where made the speakers fitted perfectly into the pods. i carefully made new mounting holes in the the pods for the spacers and the speakers (standard speakers have a 3 screw fitment)
due to the sizing issue with the front speakers i decided to check the fitting of the rear speakers and the subs needless to say the sizing was also off for these ones so before i went any further i made the templates and made the spacers up from the 5mm MDF
with the spacers made the rear coaxial's fitted in perfectly. but yet again due to the 3 screw mounting holes i had to drill some new mounting holes into the body work. these where connected straight to the standard speaker wiring loom.
now for the subs...
the subs where a straight forward fit with the adaptor / spacer plates made up. as standard the subs fit in a plastic pod. sadly the subs i brought where 5MM to big for the pods. i could have made the, fit i cut off the recess but i didn't want to damage the original pods.
as you can see from the pic i also fitted some sound proofing to the rear deck and rear panel at the same time to help reduce some road noise i even put a strip in the front doors.
now for the amp..
i decided to fit my monster amp to the side of my boot ( plus side of a big boot) plus you can hide all the cables very well.
due to the power out put of the amp 200wats RMS per channel matching the input power of my subs i decided to wire the subs in stereo not the stand mono config. both subs have the dual voice coils wired up as well.
the wiring for the speaker was fed though the box section in the top of the boot to make it look nice and tidy. and then bed behind the amp and connected up.
fitting the battery amp wire was a straight forward task i fed the wire though a gromet in the engine bay and then done the drivers side of the car. and into the boot where i discovered a standard amp wire was not long enough
so i cheated and put the in-line fuse in the boot and joined on an extra 2 foot of cable.
the negative connection is connect to a bolt found in the boot.
now for the head unit.
with the standard head unit removed i disassembled the centre of the dash so i could remove the radio cage for the factory unit and gain access to the ISO plugs. the only complication here is the Moanro is fitted with Two aerials, one has a black plug and the other has a white plug. whats the difference i here you cry. the black plug is a filtered FM aerial and the white plug is a am / fm aerial. i deceived to use both by purchasing a Y piece aerial adaptor from ebay.
the head unit i went for is a revo-sys x200 in car pc. the unit comes with wifi, gps, bluetooth and many other goodies.
as you can see from the pictures below i have a USB hub attached to the unit to run all the goodies at once of course this needed power so i brought a 5V 3A in car power supply from ebay and wired it into a spare fuse in the fuse box.
i can now see you wondering where i hid the USB hub well the simple answer is there is plenty of room in the dash once the panels are off.
here is the unit with most of its goodies.
here it is fitted with a fascia plate
the car was reassembled, other then the head unit everything looks standard.
i just realised i didn't say where i did the cross overs. these have been placed behind the kick panels in the foot-wells that where removed to allow the wiring. there is plenty of room for them.
any one has any questions just ask.
this thread will detail all the install and the challenges i had to over come to fit the system, plus it will also out line the standard audio specs.
first off. the standard setup.
The Head Unit..
it is a Six disc in dash CD changer it is a very good unit for a standard item but sadly lacks the functionality to play MP3's or have Ipod connectivity / aux with out some hard work, plus the radio does not handle RDS.
The Speakers.
believe it or not but the standard Monaro audio set-up is a 8 speaker set-up in the following config.
a pair of 2inch tweeters in the dash, in the top corners. these are "filtered" via a in-line capacitor and are driven off the front door speakers.
in the front doors are a pair of 6inch woofers, these are paper cones.
in the rear door cards at the bottom are a pair of two way 6inch woofers, also paper cones.
in the rear deck are two 6inch Sub Woofers, also paper cones, these are driven by a small 40watt amp that sits in the boot, it can be found behind the carpet on the left hand side. (pull the carpet away and stuck your hand down the side and you will be-able to feel it.) the amp does have a small volume control it so you can adjust the bass level. these subs are run off the rear speaker channels.
not all the standard speakers are rated at 2 ohms, for all those that don't understand speaker ratings the higher the ohm number the higher the quality of the speaker and the sound it produces, although the higher the ohms the quieter the sound is so bigger amps are required.
now for my setup...
i completely gutted the audio system and fitting the following
6inch crunch GTS components
6inch Crunch Ground Pounder 2 way speakers
6inch dual voice coil elemental audio subs
900watt JVC stereo amplifier.
revo-sys x200 car pc.
some sound proofing
starting with the speakers and there fitting.
i stripped the panels of the car and removed the rear seats to gain access to all the speakers. guides for doing this can be found here in the FAQ's
once all the panels where off i removed all the speakers from there housings and let the fun began.
fitting the tweeters for the components in the dash was really easy, i just had to remove the old tweeter from the mounting bracket it sits on in the dash and then screw the new ones in please using the correct machine screw, i then fed the wires down though the dash to the driver and passenger foot-wells where i had the cross overs waiting.
i then removed the panels in the side of the foot-wells so i could gain access to the rubber grommet where the wires pass though to the doors and proceeded to carefully using a old coat hanger pass the wires though so i could connect the components up to the crossover. (please note the input from the crossovers is taken from the standard wiring loom in the car.
with the wires in place i though great and started to try and fit the speakers into the door pods only to find out there was a very small difference in the recess size on the pods compared to the speakers. i sat there for a moment and scratched my head and thought all they need is a 5mm spacer so i went out and got a sheet of MDF and made a template up out of a bit of cardboard and proceeded to make the spacers. (they can be seen in the pics)
once the spacers where made the speakers fitted perfectly into the pods. i carefully made new mounting holes in the the pods for the spacers and the speakers (standard speakers have a 3 screw fitment)
due to the sizing issue with the front speakers i decided to check the fitting of the rear speakers and the subs needless to say the sizing was also off for these ones so before i went any further i made the templates and made the spacers up from the 5mm MDF
with the spacers made the rear coaxial's fitted in perfectly. but yet again due to the 3 screw mounting holes i had to drill some new mounting holes into the body work. these where connected straight to the standard speaker wiring loom.
now for the subs...
the subs where a straight forward fit with the adaptor / spacer plates made up. as standard the subs fit in a plastic pod. sadly the subs i brought where 5MM to big for the pods. i could have made the, fit i cut off the recess but i didn't want to damage the original pods.
as you can see from the pic i also fitted some sound proofing to the rear deck and rear panel at the same time to help reduce some road noise i even put a strip in the front doors.
now for the amp..
i decided to fit my monster amp to the side of my boot ( plus side of a big boot) plus you can hide all the cables very well.
due to the power out put of the amp 200wats RMS per channel matching the input power of my subs i decided to wire the subs in stereo not the stand mono config. both subs have the dual voice coils wired up as well.
the wiring for the speaker was fed though the box section in the top of the boot to make it look nice and tidy. and then bed behind the amp and connected up.
fitting the battery amp wire was a straight forward task i fed the wire though a gromet in the engine bay and then done the drivers side of the car. and into the boot where i discovered a standard amp wire was not long enough
so i cheated and put the in-line fuse in the boot and joined on an extra 2 foot of cable.the negative connection is connect to a bolt found in the boot.
now for the head unit.
with the standard head unit removed i disassembled the centre of the dash so i could remove the radio cage for the factory unit and gain access to the ISO plugs. the only complication here is the Moanro is fitted with Two aerials, one has a black plug and the other has a white plug. whats the difference i here you cry. the black plug is a filtered FM aerial and the white plug is a am / fm aerial. i deceived to use both by purchasing a Y piece aerial adaptor from ebay.
the head unit i went for is a revo-sys x200 in car pc. the unit comes with wifi, gps, bluetooth and many other goodies.
as you can see from the pictures below i have a USB hub attached to the unit to run all the goodies at once of course this needed power so i brought a 5V 3A in car power supply from ebay and wired it into a spare fuse in the fuse box.
i can now see you wondering where i hid the USB hub well the simple answer is there is plenty of room in the dash once the panels are off.
here is the unit with most of its goodies.
here it is fitted with a fascia plate
the car was reassembled, other then the head unit everything looks standard.
i just realised i didn't say where i did the cross overs. these have been placed behind the kick panels in the foot-wells that where removed to allow the wiring. there is plenty of room for them.
any one has any questions just ask.
Edited by the_ferret82 on Thursday 19th May 22:41
007 VXR said:
the_ferret82 said:
a facia plate and an aerial adaptor. you have already had your speakers done correct?
it should take an afternoon
it should take an afternoon
speakers done 
but not subs .Which 6 disc changer have you got ?
Can you fit a barrel of
in your boot ??? 
i am happy to fit one for you for a few
007 VXR said:
the_ferret82 said:
i dont have a changer.. i just went MP3 with a USB HDD
i am happy to fit one for you for a few
Bit more than a few i am happy to fit one for you for a few
would like 6 disc changer in the boot
will have a look for a head unit
007 VXR said:
the_ferret82 said:
i dont have a changer.. i just went MP3 with a USB HDD
i am happy to fit one for you for a few
Bit more than a few i am happy to fit one for you for a few
would like 6 disc changer in the boot
will have a look for a head unit
Granby said:
Go for a hard drive, i've got thousands of albums and singles in MP3 format, never have to worry about changing CD's over cos your bored of them
watch out most head units that take USB have a limit to amount of songs they can read of the device. just one the reasons i went with a car pc install..the_ferret82 said:
Granby said:
Go for a hard drive, i've got thousands of albums and singles in MP3 format, never have to worry about changing CD's over cos your bored of them
watch out most head units that take USB have a limit to amount of songs they can read of the device. just one the reasons i went with a car pc install..Granby said:
the_ferret82 said:
Granby said:
Go for a hard drive, i've got thousands of albums and singles in MP3 format, never have to worry about changing CD's over cos your bored of them
watch out most head units that take USB have a limit to amount of songs they can read of the device. just one the reasons i went with a car pc install..
uke:the_ferret82 said:
Granby said:
the_ferret82 said:
Granby said:
Go for a hard drive, i've got thousands of albums and singles in MP3 format, never have to worry about changing CD's over cos your bored of them
watch out most head units that take USB have a limit to amount of songs they can read of the device. just one the reasons i went with a car pc install..uke:the_ferret82 said:
Granby said:
Up to you but plenty of space on ipods, doesn't have to be the new style ones, the classics have big drives on them
not for my 250GB of music... , but i meant for most people ipod's would have plenty of space for their music Edited by Granby on Thursday 19th May 23:50
Great write up, even half tempted to have a go myself but I will break something! got a new head unit last November and a fascia adaptor ive just not fitted it yet!
Oh and ohm ratings are how easy it is for an amp to drive the speaker nothing to do with the actual quality of the speaker, the lower the ohm the harder it is to be driven
Oh and ohm ratings are how easy it is for an amp to drive the speaker nothing to do with the actual quality of the speaker, the lower the ohm the harder it is to be driven
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