Airbag Disable Switch
Discussion
The MasserGremlins have bitten me again !!!
The passenger seat airbag light illuminated at the weekend and won't go away. I tried switching the (child seat) airbag switch on and off several times (requires the ignition key into the key-slot on the passenger side of the dashboard; only visible with door open). Turning off the power isolation switch and no joy.
Next up was to remove the most common problem, the switch itself. These are really easy to get out; I used a trim-kit chisel to pry it partially open and then wiggled it free to reveal the twin cable connector. Careful use of a screwdriver would be fine.
Stripping it down is simple. Two screws on the end and two small catches on the connector lug. Inside is a connection plate with two SMD Resistors. I tested these - using the Ohm setting on a multimeter - and both were fine: 0.402 k Ohms (same as 402 Ohms) and 101.1 Ohms. The resistors are marked with 4020 and 1000 respectively. I will add more pictures :-)
So now I will have to move on to other areas of the system to try and find the fault. But thought it might help to save others the expense of buying a new switch; only find it doesn't solve the problem. The pictures will help :-)
The passenger seat airbag light illuminated at the weekend and won't go away. I tried switching the (child seat) airbag switch on and off several times (requires the ignition key into the key-slot on the passenger side of the dashboard; only visible with door open). Turning off the power isolation switch and no joy.
Next up was to remove the most common problem, the switch itself. These are really easy to get out; I used a trim-kit chisel to pry it partially open and then wiggled it free to reveal the twin cable connector. Careful use of a screwdriver would be fine.
Stripping it down is simple. Two screws on the end and two small catches on the connector lug. Inside is a connection plate with two SMD Resistors. I tested these - using the Ohm setting on a multimeter - and both were fine: 0.402 k Ohms (same as 402 Ohms) and 101.1 Ohms. The resistors are marked with 4020 and 1000 respectively. I will add more pictures :-)
So now I will have to move on to other areas of the system to try and find the fault. But thought it might help to save others the expense of buying a new switch; only find it doesn't solve the problem. The pictures will help :-)
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