Cosworth YB Question.
Discussion
Am I right in thinking that the block in my Sierra Cosworth is made of iron and based on the original pinto engine?
I seem to remember having read somewhere that it is possible to convert the block (I put the Cosworth heads onto) a later ally block (Zetec I think). Or am I talking complete tosh? (please be nice, I am getting old and my memory is rubbish..)
I seem to remember having read somewhere that it is possible to convert the block (I put the Cosworth heads onto) a later ally block (Zetec I think). Or am I talking complete tosh? (please be nice, I am getting old and my memory is rubbish..)
Not sure exactly what you mean. It's quite common to use the zetec iron bottom end with a cvh top end thus keeping management issues nice and simple. Is that what you've heard about? Cossies have iron blocks and so do the zetecs I've come across. Maybe newer zetecs are alloy, could you try a ford bb or a ford dealer
nothing of the yb or pinto fits the zetec engine.
now if you have cash to spare you can buy all alloy pinto blocks (millington)=mega money.the answer with the yb is to find a 4x4 block and make more power to pull it allong.
but if its in a sierra then money would be better spent making the chassis understeer a bit less
now if you have cash to spare you can buy all alloy pinto blocks (millington)=mega money.the answer with the yb is to find a 4x4 block and make more power to pull it allong.
but if its in a sierra then money would be better spent making the chassis understeer a bit less
accident said:
nothing of the yb or pinto fits the zetec engine.
now if you have cash to spare you can buy all alloy pinto blocks (millington)=mega money.the answer with the yb is to find a 4x4 block and make more power to pull it allong.
but if its in a sierra then money would be better spent making the chassis understeer a bit less
Planning on puting into a DAX Rush, putting in a iron don'r seem right. Any Idea where i can get more on these blocks? (just so I scare myself at the price...)
Millington race engines-01746 789268
Think its a millington diamond block.
Roy millington is the fella there, they make the blocks about 20mm taller as well so you can run bigger capacity engine without loosing the higher rpm or you can have it machined to the same spec as the cosworth 200 block etc.
>> Edited by gtec on Sunday 2nd November 22:23
Think its a millington diamond block.
Roy millington is the fella there, they make the blocks about 20mm taller as well so you can run bigger capacity engine without loosing the higher rpm or you can have it machined to the same spec as the cosworth 200 block etc.
>> Edited by gtec on Sunday 2nd November 22:23
Why don't you use a Rover v8 and upgrade it at a later date. It has way more potential then a cosworth lump and is all aluminium? The cosworth stuff is ok as far as a 2.0 goes but very expensive to tweek and then they just become fickle. RV8's just go on for a very long time and if you want a turbo or 2 that's simple to sort out. 5.0 turbo, easy and simple power to be had. Are you smitten with the cosworth for a particular reason or open to other options? Have you space restraints?
and if you want a turbo or 2 that's simple to sort out. 5.0 turbo, easy and simple power to be had. Are you smitten with the cosworth for a particular reason or open to other options? Have you space restraints?Well, the real constraint is that I have the car already on blocks ready to be stripped... I had a test ride in a Rush with a RV8 in it and it was dead impressive. However, I fancy 4WD. The cross country ability of my Sierra Cossy is bloody impressive, by far the fastest A to B car I ever had.
I am looking forward to getting the engine into something that is 1/2 the weight!!
Thanks for all the replies..
I am looking forward to getting the engine into something that is 1/2 the weight!!
Thanks for all the replies..
Hello All Terrain,
Well a turbocharged rover revs the same as a n/a rover. You just get a big wedge of torque across the whole range. It can be a very simple and cheap set-up based on a stock bottom end. You could have 500lbs/ft or more which is 100lb/ft more then a Testerossa and from very low down the rev range. Stick with a simple stock cam and you get more grunt lower down or else use a 218 or similar. All you need is a holley carb, turbo's, regulator and efi pump plus manifold/s and some mechanical ability. If you use stock revs then nothing gets stressed so long as you take care of the cooling and don't hold boost forever. You won't need to! For the 5.0 I stuck to 5500. Never needed any more. This was the whole point of using capacity plus forced induction. A 4.6 would make a shedfull of torque as well, even on stock c/r.
Gtec, you can mount the turbo's in front of the 'V' or use a single turbo.
Bogbeast, I've been in a few cossies and they can be impressive but the engines are heavy as hell and there is only so far you can go with them before reliability is an issue. The 4wd thing is useful though but again it's adding weight. I have seen a rv8 with 4wd and the box was a t5 with a take off on the driver's side. Maybe the rear casing of the t5 was changed. It looked pretty good though.
Well a turbocharged rover revs the same as a n/a rover. You just get a big wedge of torque across the whole range. It can be a very simple and cheap set-up based on a stock bottom end. You could have 500lbs/ft or more which is 100lb/ft more then a Testerossa and from very low down the rev range. Stick with a simple stock cam and you get more grunt lower down or else use a 218 or similar. All you need is a holley carb, turbo's, regulator and efi pump plus manifold/s and some mechanical ability. If you use stock revs then nothing gets stressed so long as you take care of the cooling and don't hold boost forever. You won't need to! For the 5.0 I stuck to 5500. Never needed any more. This was the whole point of using capacity plus forced induction. A 4.6 would make a shedfull of torque as well, even on stock c/r.
Gtec, you can mount the turbo's in front of the 'V' or use a single turbo.
Bogbeast, I've been in a few cossies and they can be impressive but the engines are heavy as hell and there is only so far you can go with them before reliability is an issue. The 4wd thing is useful though but again it's adding weight. I have seen a rv8 with 4wd and the box was a t5 with a take off on the driver's side. Maybe the rear casing of the t5 was changed. It looked pretty good though.
Boosted - fair points. The weight was what prompted my original query. 4WD RV8 Rush would certainly be unusual, but as Gtec says, there ain't a lot of space in there and I am not really up for a major re-engineering job.
Graham - 330 brake is about as high as people go on standard pistons (before going to lo compression forged pistons..) Although it does depend on who's building the engine. From what i understand they are pretty reliable at this level as long as they have a decent map, setup by someone who knows what they are doing and you change the good quality synthetic oil on a regular basis.. 500hp and I think you would be planning on regular rebuilds....
Graham - 330 brake is about as high as people go on standard pistons (before going to lo compression forged pistons..) Although it does depend on who's building the engine. From what i understand they are pretty reliable at this level as long as they have a decent map, setup by someone who knows what they are doing and you change the good quality synthetic oil on a regular basis.. 500hp and I think you would be planning on regular rebuilds....
so how does this spec sound
200 block
7.2:1 comp pocketed pistons
Isky Valve springs
BD14 Cams
Vernier Cam wheels
Fully shot peened and balanced
Head mildly ported and spring platforms lowered
Group A head gsket and big end bolts
sintered 6 paddle clutch
New Exhaust manifold and T34 turbo (.48 exhaust)
Matched inlet manifold with Greys
Ecu to match
how does that sound reliable? the guy is quoting 380bhp!!
would it be simple to de -tune it to say 260-280
( class rules)
200 block
7.2:1 comp pocketed pistons
Isky Valve springs
BD14 Cams
Vernier Cam wheels
Fully shot peened and balanced
Head mildly ported and spring platforms lowered
Group A head gsket and big end bolts
sintered 6 paddle clutch
New Exhaust manifold and T34 turbo (.48 exhaust)
Matched inlet manifold with Greys
Ecu to match
how does that sound reliable? the guy is quoting 380bhp!!
would it be simple to de -tune it to say 260-280
( class rules)
It sounds good. To de-tune you just use less boost. You need to ask for more info though. Will the pistons be running less then .040" squish. You don't want them down the bore at tdc. Are they forged pistons (probably are). Fully shot peened, what rods and crank or just rods. Stock rods are good anyway as is the crank. I think it's forged from memory. Get the pistons running a tight squish and do a nice balance and it will be efficient and smooth. I would suggest a proper session on a rolling road as a lot of cosworth talk is just about' bolt this on mate - loads of power, my mates done it and got 500 bhp' and then it goes 'pop'. 350 bho seems sensible for this engine and quite a common figure. IMHO of course.
If this engine is going in a rush then I think the spec is wrong..... in a heavier cossie it will rock and is a good spec with realistic power claims.B
But in a lighter rush the more radical cams and big turbo will come in extremelly strongly and I suspect over a short rev range and may make the car a nightmare to drive.
This advice I got when I asked the same question on the Kit car forum and came from people who owned caterfields with cossie engines. They basically told me to rip the turbo off and fit twin 45's!.
If you only want 300ish bhp then stick a hybrid T3 on with a good intercooler and greens.... My cossie had 330bhp on a hybrid with around 7.7:1cr and was very fast with a relativelly smooth take up.
I've since changed that to around 7.5:1cr with a T34 (no more boost though) and it does kick in slightly later but holds stronger and has up'd the power beyond 350bhp.
Another bonus will be the std clutch is good for up to 340Bhp but above that it will be a pain, I know this as I've had my car for 9yrs of which the first 7 it had around 330-340bhp and the std clutch was always fine despite quarter mile trips etc... However now it's above 350bhp the clutch can slip... I've tried an AP 4 paddle clutch (I know the 6paddle is reputed to be less harsh) and it was awfull on the road and the extra harshness broke the diff on track, so I'm back with the std clutch and put up with occasional slip.
But in a lighter rush the more radical cams and big turbo will come in extremelly strongly and I suspect over a short rev range and may make the car a nightmare to drive.
This advice I got when I asked the same question on the Kit car forum and came from people who owned caterfields with cossie engines. They basically told me to rip the turbo off and fit twin 45's!.
If you only want 300ish bhp then stick a hybrid T3 on with a good intercooler and greens.... My cossie had 330bhp on a hybrid with around 7.7:1cr and was very fast with a relativelly smooth take up.
I've since changed that to around 7.5:1cr with a T34 (no more boost though) and it does kick in slightly later but holds stronger and has up'd the power beyond 350bhp.
Another bonus will be the std clutch is good for up to 340Bhp but above that it will be a pain, I know this as I've had my car for 9yrs of which the first 7 it had around 330-340bhp and the std clutch was always fine despite quarter mile trips etc... However now it's above 350bhp the clutch can slip... I've tried an AP 4 paddle clutch (I know the 6paddle is reputed to be less harsh) and it was awfull on the road and the extra harshness broke the diff on track, so I'm back with the std clutch and put up with occasional slip.
Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff