Tappet adjustment, a DIY job?

[RichB]

Chaps, I've got solid lifters/adjustable tappets in my Griff 500 engine. Common wisdom seems to suggest adjustment is about a 1-2 hour job for someone who knows what they are doing, so my question is:- is it a 5-6 hour job for someone who's doesn't but is quite happy adjusting the tappets on a BMC "B Series" 4 cyl engine? i.e. I'm not a complete mechanical half-wit, I've still got my feeler gauges and lapping paste in the tool box to prove it! Rich...

>>> Edited by RichB on Tuesday 10th June 17:27

[danny hoffman]

Sounds like you should be fine

[RichB]

Thanks Danny but I was looking for a little bit more than that before I render the car immobile by half stripping the top end only to discover I am stumped! Rich...

[GreenV8S]

Do you have adjustable pushrods, or adjustable rockers?

[james]

It's a very simple job. I've done it many times on the Rover V8s I've had in the race cars.

Think 2 B Series engines glued together, and you'll have an idea of how long it should take

You'll need:

1 set of feeler gauges.
1 screw driver.
1 spanner.
1 glamorous assistant to say "Gosh, you're so clever. I wouldn't know where to start!" in a gushy voice.



James

[apache]

Rich, if you have adjustable rods it shouldn't be a prob, I used to do em on my old Harley (but there were only 4 of them and you didn't have to remove half the engine to get to em).
They should need adjusting every 6k miles which ties in with servicing so I asked Offord and they said they would charge me an extra £48 per service to do em.
Missed ya at Power Eng btw (my car is poorly and needs a head refettle)

[RichB]

1) Adjustable pushrods, Pete. Does it make a difference?
2) OK like 2 x B Series eh? sounds alright any difficulties getting the rocker covers off or anything else I should be aware of that makes it more difficult?
3) Yes, sorry Pete but i had a job interview which went on a bit, and being out of work at the mo' thought that was kinda' inportant!

See you soon though, cheers Rich...


>> Edited by RichB on Wednesday 11th June 15:19

[apache]

good luck on jobhunting Rich, the only prob I recall was fitting the r/h cam cover, fit this before the inlet manifold as it fouls the fuel rail if fitted after. The l/h side is no prob, you'll need loadsa black goo, dunno bout the gasket

[james]

Just make sure you don't drop one of the rocker cover fastenings down one of the pushrod holes. A guy that I was teaching how to do the job (well, he watched me up to the last minute, then asked if he could put one of the rocker covers back on) managed to do it, and I ended up having to drop the sump to fish the damned thing out

[ultimaandy]

Same question from me except I have a small block chevy with a solid roller cam and rocker rollers.

Obviously I have some mechanical knowledge as I built the car myself but I am new to chevy's.

[RichB]

james said: Just make sure you don't drop one of the rocker cover fastenings down one of the pushrod holes. A guy that I was teaching how to do the job (well, he watched me up to the last minute, then asked if he could put one of the rocker covers back on) managed to do it, and I ended up having to drop the sump to fish the damned thing out

ho hum... been there, got the T-shirt! Changed the cam on an MGB and dropped the distributor drive straight into the sump! A couple of screw-heads on the sump rounded and try as I may I couldn't get it off! So it was an engine out job to finish an easy task! Brother (his car/my effort) then said let's spray the engine bay, then lets spray the whole car, then lets replace those rusty wings! Oh bugger if I hadn't dropped that dizzy drive I wouldn't have got roped into re-building his entire bloody car! Rich...