any tips for doing a head gasket on a pinto engine
Discussion
Get yourself a good manual and familiarise yourself with the procedure before starting the job.
The biggest potential headache if youve never done one of these engines before is the auxiliary shaft that drives the distributor.
Just make sure its timed correctly or youll have a real problem with poor running and an inability to get the ignition timing correct.
Oh, and get the right spline tool for the headbolts too.
Pretty much a straightforward job if youre a little handy with the spanners.
The biggest potential headache if youve never done one of these engines before is the auxiliary shaft that drives the distributor.
Just make sure its timed correctly or youll have a real problem with poor running and an inability to get the ignition timing correct.
Oh, and get the right spline tool for the headbolts too.
Pretty much a straightforward job if youre a little handy with the spanners.
From memory, if you have the later 6-point Torx type head bolts, they are the stretch type and have to be replaced. However, as far as I know, there is no reason why you can't replace them with the earlier splined type which can be re-used (I've done it and it seems to work). On a modified engine where you are perhaps more likely to be removing the head from time to time, this can be worthwhile. Another tip concerns re-fitting the head. It's bl**dy heavy, and there are no location dowels to get it aligned correctly, so it's a swine to position accurately and lower slowly at the same time. What I have done is to cut the heads off of 2 old head bolts, and saw a slot in the top (for a flat-bladed screwdriver). I then screw the bolts into diagonally opposite holes at each end of the block and use these as guides. Then, when the head is in position, you can just remove them with a screwdriver. While you're at it, a heavy duty head gasket might be worth considering - try Burton Power. I assume you're going to check the head for flatness while it's off, in case it needs skimming. Finally, while you've got the opportunity, check that the holes in the camshaft spray bar aren't blocked.
www.burtonpower.com
Telephone 020 8518 9136
Fax 020 8554 4828
Email sales@burtonpower.com
617 - 631 Eastern Avenue, Ilford, Essex, IG2 6PN.
They sell go-faster bits for pretty much anything with a blue oval, and have a good mail order service.
Telephone 020 8518 9136
Fax 020 8554 4828
Email sales@burtonpower.com
617 - 631 Eastern Avenue, Ilford, Essex, IG2 6PN.
They sell go-faster bits for pretty much anything with a blue oval, and have a good mail order service.
Make sure that you use a decent head gasket, no sealant, surfaces must be clean & dry. try not to slide the head/gasket about on the block, make sure that you tighten the bolts down in their correct sequence, and most of all, make sure you use the correct method (& figures) for torquing the bolts, as the different types of bolts have different methods & figures.
ahhh yes....the joys of a head gasket swap on a pinto.....I have lost count of how many I did while racing but there were plenty. Gasket wise, a very reputable engine builder did a test of all the super duper gasksets against the stock Ford one and found the Ford one the best. That is the "Goetze" one. It clearly has "Goetze" stamped into the metal on the edge of the gasket. Bear in mind that this was in conjunction with the stock (original) Pinto block not the later "205" injection pinto block.
HTH
HTH
change the timing belt whilst you are at it, get a head set from your local factors, on a standard lump these are fine, torx (6point) are stretch bolts and need replacing if you are keeping the car, spline (12 point) can be used again. align the timing marks(pointer on the cam pulley backplate to hole in head) ,notch on botom pulley to pointer on crank case, remove the distributor cap and mark the dizzy either side of the rotor arm (a small screw driver to scratch the body or a blob of tipex/touchup paint/nail varnish/permanent marker( I prefer scratches)) The head set should come with a new spray bar for the cam, if not get one.
both manifolds (unless tubular exhaust) can be left on, but it aint light, so make sure you've had your weetabix
when reassembling there should be a couple of tubes at opp corners of the block to help line up the gasket, if not a couple of very thin smears of copperslip or similar grease will hold the gasket to the head when you place it back on the block, have a couple of head bolts slid through to act as guides.couple of hours easy! Adjust the valve clearances whilst the head is off (easier IMHO)and dont over tighten the cam cover bolts or it will leak like a sieve (thin smear of instant gasket or bathroom sealant works a treat here!
have fun (reminds me of the good old bad old days)
both manifolds (unless tubular exhaust) can be left on, but it aint light, so make sure you've had your weetabix
when reassembling there should be a couple of tubes at opp corners of the block to help line up the gasket, if not a couple of very thin smears of copperslip or similar grease will hold the gasket to the head when you place it back on the block, have a couple of head bolts slid through to act as guides.couple of hours easy! Adjust the valve clearances whilst the head is off (easier IMHO)and dont over tighten the cam cover bolts or it will leak like a sieve (thin smear of instant gasket or bathroom sealant works a treat here!
have fun (reminds me of the good old bad old days)
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