Starting an old shed?
Discussion
I've offered to help a mate this weekend with a car that’s been sat in his barn for god knows how long. Not been started or moved for I'd guess at least a year. Basically just looking for a few helpful pointers to free up brakes get and get the damn thing ticking over again. Any help greatly appreciated.
My usual procedure is...
Take the plugs out and squirt liberal amounts of WD40 down the bores, and then turn the engine over gently by hand, no banging to get the thing moving, just constant pressure for several revolutions of the crank, you don't want to snap a piston ring.
Check all the coolant and fuel hoses for any cracks/damage etc, drain the radiator and backflush both the block and the radiator
Change the oil and filter for fresh, if you can get to the cam easily, eg its OHC and the cam is right under the rocker cover, then liberal amounts of gear oil is useful on the cam but not essential, crank the engine over on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out
Thread plugs back in, a quick squirt of WD40 in the dizzy cap for good luck and with any luck the engine will fire and Bob's your father's brother.
Keep the engine running at a fast idle not revving just say 500rpm above what it should settle at, until the engine is up to temperature
Switch off and check for leaks etc.
Regards
Iain
Take the plugs out and squirt liberal amounts of WD40 down the bores, and then turn the engine over gently by hand, no banging to get the thing moving, just constant pressure for several revolutions of the crank, you don't want to snap a piston ring.
Check all the coolant and fuel hoses for any cracks/damage etc, drain the radiator and backflush both the block and the radiator
Change the oil and filter for fresh, if you can get to the cam easily, eg its OHC and the cam is right under the rocker cover, then liberal amounts of gear oil is useful on the cam but not essential, crank the engine over on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out
Thread plugs back in, a quick squirt of WD40 in the dizzy cap for good luck and with any luck the engine will fire and Bob's your father's brother.
Keep the engine running at a fast idle not revving just say 500rpm above what it should settle at, until the engine is up to temperature
Switch off and check for leaks etc.
Regards
Iain
thats the propper way of doing things
but for an easy life
get something big to jump it with big leads
and poor neat petrol down the carb to help it fire up
for the brakes
take one rubber mallet and one jack
jack the wheel up
and beat with the mallet until free
Sean
PS don't stick your head over the carb as it will backfire
but for an easy life
get something big to jump it with big leads
and poor neat petrol down the carb to help it fire up
for the brakes
take one rubber mallet and one jack
jack the wheel up
and beat with the mallet until free
Sean
PS don't stick your head over the carb as it will backfire
Sometimes the clutch plate and flywheel can seize together (if it's a manual).
In which case I start it in 4th or 5th gear with the handbrake on, this should free up the system.
Some people try to free them up with a big flat bladed screw driver. If it's been WITHIN the barn generally away from the rain this may not have happened anyway. If it has, you'll know about it!
In which case I start it in 4th or 5th gear with the handbrake on, this should free up the system.
Some people try to free them up with a big flat bladed screw driver. If it's been WITHIN the barn generally away from the rain this may not have happened anyway. If it has, you'll know about it!
Did just this with a mate's Harald - standing for 3 years in leaky shed.
Battery dead - new one fitted.
Turned over fine but no fuel to carb (fuel in tank - could hear it sloshing). Tight-wad had only put a fiver's worth in there. Added more fuel and manually pumped fuel pump with pipe off of carb, started spitting fuel out OK.
Tested for spark - points had corroded shut. New points only just adjust enough - may have to 'alter' slightly to get more gap.
Mate had added fuel filter between pump and carb - no fuel to carb again
will replce fuel pipe and leave out filter for now.
Squirting 'easy start' directly into carb, engine fired and ran 'OK' but no fuel to carb meant it would not run by itself.
Stuck clutch still to deal with! My old car years ago needed gearbox out to fix...NOTHING else could free it off. Mate has new clutch kit for this.
Hope this helps.
Battery dead - new one fitted.
Turned over fine but no fuel to carb (fuel in tank - could hear it sloshing). Tight-wad had only put a fiver's worth in there. Added more fuel and manually pumped fuel pump with pipe off of carb, started spitting fuel out OK.
Tested for spark - points had corroded shut. New points only just adjust enough - may have to 'alter' slightly to get more gap.
Mate had added fuel filter between pump and carb - no fuel to carb again
will replce fuel pipe and leave out filter for now. Squirting 'easy start' directly into carb, engine fired and ran 'OK' but no fuel to carb meant it would not run by itself.
Stuck clutch still to deal with! My old car years ago needed gearbox out to fix...NOTHING else could free it off. Mate has new clutch kit for this.
Hope this helps.
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