Stainless steel vs OE plastic thermal efficiency silly idea

Stainless steel vs OE plastic thermal efficiency silly idea

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Mr Whippy

Original Poster:

29,480 posts

246 months

Wednesday 17th May 2006
quotequote all
I want to remap my Hdi 306 to run more power and torque, but because the car has no intercooler intake temps are my MAIN worry with anything I do. Many places offer between 115>125bhp, but of course anything done to reduce temps means the engine is happier running at those kinds of output sans dedicated cooler.

Main question is, the turbo to manifold feed pipe is an OE plastic moulding... it is routed under the turbo exhaust turbine, and then across to the manifold feed pipe. I'm sure it's not optimum for delivering hot boosted air, being black and a bit bendy.

I'm considering taking the pipe to an exhaust fabricators and seeing if they can make me a stainless version, then I can go home and start mig-welding lots of small fins onto it, then using a rough air-feed from the undertray to blow onto the up-pipe.
I've already got a spare from a scrapper to start drilling holes in to bung in a temp sensor.

Would anyone consider my idea worthwhile or just a complete waste of time and money? Are there any good web-pages on hosing. Turbo outlet must be 40mm tops, but the manifold feed pipe is over 50mm, so I guess there is room for optimising the diameter etc there too.

Just looking for subtle effective modifications. Already got an early Tdi 306 turbo>backbox straight pipe and a foam panel filter with some cooler air feed optimisations.

Just want to keep the temps down in small simple ways really.

Thanks

Dave



Just that ikkle black pipe in stainless...

>> Edited by Mr Whippy on Wednesday 17th May 15:01

GreenV8S

30,407 posts

289 months

Wednesday 17th May 2006
quotequote all
Plastic will be a better insulator than stainless steel, and if it's routed round the turbo and manifold that's probably to your advantage. It you fit a steel replacement you'd want to ensure that it was insulated from the 'hot' stuff, and you'd need to provide plenty of cold air over the outside to get any significant cooling. Even then the effects would probably be small unless you also fit fins on the inside.

deltafox

3,839 posts

237 months

Wednesday 17th May 2006
quotequote all
Have the replacement pipe made oversize with a spiral wound capilliary tube inside (Cunifer brake/fuel pipe maybe) and attach it to the air conditioner so it freezes the hell out of the pipe and cools the air before it enters the engine.
Best part is itll be a stealth install too.

Boosted LS1

21,198 posts

265 months

Wednesday 17th May 2006
quotequote all
deltafox said:
Have the replacement pipe made oversize with a spiral wound capilliary tube inside (Cunifer brake/fuel pipe maybe) and attach it to the air conditioner so it freezes the hell out of the pipe and cools the air before it enters the engine.
Best part is itll be a stealth install too.



Oooh, I like that DF!

Boosted.

deltafox

3,839 posts

237 months

Wednesday 17th May 2006
quotequote all
Boosted LS1 said:
deltafox said:
Have the replacement pipe made oversize with a spiral wound capilliary tube inside (Cunifer brake/fuel pipe maybe) and attach it to the air conditioner so it freezes the hell out of the pipe and cools the air before it enters the engine.
Best part is itll be a stealth install too.



Oooh, I like that DF!

Boosted.


Lol Thought ya might! Lagging the pipe in thermowrap would also help to keep it cooler for longer.


>> Edited by deltafox on Wednesday 17th May 23:18

Mr Whippy

Original Poster:

29,480 posts

246 months

Friday 19th May 2006
quotequote all
Sounds like a naff idea then

Hmmmm...

I keep swinging towards a chargecooler, then back again

Dave