Problems rebuilding weber 40 DCOE / where to get parts

[chrisst170]

Hi everyone,
I've just bought a pair of weber twin 40s off ebay (for the 2L pinto in my Tiger super six) and it looks like I need to buy some parts, where is the best place to get spares from in the UK?
One of the pair is in good condition and has recently been overhauled, the other one is in less good condition... In fact its has a few problems:

The choke spindle was ceased, it freed up with a bit of WD40 but it is still a bit "notchie" when you take the spring off it. There isn't much play in it and it closes fine under the spring load but could the notchieness still be a problem? I'd ideally like to take the spindle out to clean it up/ inspect but it looks to be a pain getting the thing out, any suggestions?

Secondly one of the starter valves has disintegrated and what is left of it is jammed in place. Do I really need this or can I get by without the cold start circuit?

Thirdly one of the chokes is stuck in position and I need to change it, any hints and tips for persuading it to move? I've soaked it in WD40 overnight and had it in the oven at a lowish temp but can't really get anything in there to push down on it while the spindle is still in place.

Finally part of the linkage is missing, the side with the synchronising screw on is present, the but side with the ball connector on is missing, any suggestions on where I can source one of these?

The bloke who I bought the carbs off on ebay claims he was unaware of the problems. I asked him to source / finance the parts required, he has asked how much they will cost to repair. So any idea how much the parts will cost and where is the best place to get them from?

Thanks very much,

Chris

[zzr]

There are Weber dealers around who can help, or try a local rolling road centre.

Paul

[shelsleyf2]

The spindle is on ball bearings with leather sealing washers to stop the air leaking in. To remove spindle undo the screws holding the butterflies and remove butterflies, undo the nuts on both ends of the spindle and remove any brackets. Unscrew the cover in between the chokes and release the internal throttle return spring push out the roll pin. You should now be able to push or knock the spindle through...Bits are expensive for webers the throttle balance operating bits atre different depending on throttle cable operating linkage. As a guide if you sent them off to have them proffesionally rebuilt expect to be charged £100 each parts and labour. Choke mechanism can normally be freed off with lots of wd40 and patience, accelerator pump jet chambers can seize and car will run crap. Also jets can block. Pump jets acn be checked by filling float chamber with petrol or very light oil and operating throttle on and off to max rapidly. Carb should squirt two equal jets out of each choke into the inlet manifold...if not you have a blockage..

[Justin S]

you could try Eurocarb in Reading.They import dellortos,but also stock weber parts.

[grahambell]

Northampton Motorsport are official Weber agents so can probably supply spares. (01604 766624/www.northamptonmotorsport.com)

Notchiness is shot bearings, but new ones should cure it.

In the past I've run DCOEs both with and without the starters cabled up. Found that pumping the throttle 5-6 times before turning the key seemed to get things started OK, even in cold weather, although expect much spitting back for the first few miles.