Help with idle misfire on Nissan SR20DE (Primera P10)
Discussion
This is starting to drive me up the wall a little bit, can anyone suggest anythine else I should check? The car starts normally from hot or cold, and doesn't stall. Fast idle is fine untill the car warms up and the idle drops. It cruises fine, and gets book economy over several tanks. Power 'feels' a little bit down over the mid range but really takes off over 5K. I haven't got the cash to just throw random new bits at the thing at the moment. Here's what I've done/checked so far -
TPS adjustment - was a little bit out, now spot on. Much smoother on/off throttle now.
Dizzy cap/rotor - no esessive wear, rotor resistance within spec, no sign of tracking.
Plugs + HT leads replaced, no effect.
Coil + ignitor check within spec. Cleaned externally + all contacts, no effect.
Cleaned all the various grounds around the engine bay.
Ran with TPS disconnected - misfire still there.
Base idle + ignition timing checked OK
Checked for vacumn leaks by poking an unlit blowtorch around the engine bay
O2 sensor - It's a 3 wire type, I can see 12v getting to the heater, but between signal and ground I can only see a steady 120mV - it should cycle between <200 and >700 right? But then again, the display updates quite slowly on my meter so I don't know if that's a true reading. You can put the ECU in a mode where it flashes the dash light according to the O2 sensor rich/lean and that seems OK
I'm getting an intermittant code 34 for the knock sensor, which I guess might be why it feels down in the midrange, but that wouldn't cause this problem would it?
I'm going to borrow a 'scope this week to check the CAS output from the dizzy.
Is there anything I've missed? Can the collective brains of the PH massive help me out here?
Neil
TPS adjustment - was a little bit out, now spot on. Much smoother on/off throttle now.
Dizzy cap/rotor - no esessive wear, rotor resistance within spec, no sign of tracking.
Plugs + HT leads replaced, no effect.
Coil + ignitor check within spec. Cleaned externally + all contacts, no effect.
Cleaned all the various grounds around the engine bay.
Ran with TPS disconnected - misfire still there.
Base idle + ignition timing checked OK
Checked for vacumn leaks by poking an unlit blowtorch around the engine bay
O2 sensor - It's a 3 wire type, I can see 12v getting to the heater, but between signal and ground I can only see a steady 120mV - it should cycle between <200 and >700 right? But then again, the display updates quite slowly on my meter so I don't know if that's a true reading. You can put the ECU in a mode where it flashes the dash light according to the O2 sensor rich/lean and that seems OK
I'm getting an intermittant code 34 for the knock sensor, which I guess might be why it feels down in the midrange, but that wouldn't cause this problem would it?
I'm going to borrow a 'scope this week to check the CAS output from the dizzy.
Is there anything I've missed? Can the collective brains of the PH massive help me out here?
Neil
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