Cannot select gear with engine off
Discussion
I can’t also select a gear with engine on. (Except reverse)
Car is Peugeot 106, 5 speed. Manually adjustable clutch and rod linkage .
I have checked the linkages to see if it is fouling on anything and adjusted the clutch. Bite point is very high.
Short of removing the box, can someone give me some things to look into?
(I may have to remove the box), but let’s see if that’s where this goes before jumping straight to that option.
Car is Peugeot 106, 5 speed. Manually adjustable clutch and rod linkage .
I have checked the linkages to see if it is fouling on anything and adjusted the clutch. Bite point is very high.
Short of removing the box, can someone give me some things to look into?
(I may have to remove the box), but let’s see if that’s where this goes before jumping straight to that option.
Reverse is always straight-cut, so the fact that the forward ( synchro) gears wont 'so in' suggests there's a bit of clutch-drag going-on.
Any more adjustment on the clutch? If not - it might just be that it is at end of life.
I very much like the suggestion above to check you are getting full range of selector movement at the gearbox - a worn bush or three in a linkage def can do similar.
Any more adjustment on the clutch? If not - it might just be that it is at end of life.
I very much like the suggestion above to check you are getting full range of selector movement at the gearbox - a worn bush or three in a linkage def can do similar.
I will check all these things at the weekend.
Clutch pedal feels weird, far too springy, and the bite point is right at the top of the travel, There is more adjustment, but.... I don't see how that impacts gear selection when the engine is off.
Linkage is likely to be ok, as it gets inspected regularly ( its a race car) , there's a possibility it might be snagging on something like the exhaust.
Gearbox was working fine just before I changed the 5th gear synchroniser hub. It's a simple pull off and push back on change but I wonder if I've knocked the whole of the gear shaft out by a mm or 2 although I can't see how I could have done that.
Clutch pedal feels weird, far too springy, and the bite point is right at the top of the travel, There is more adjustment, but.... I don't see how that impacts gear selection when the engine is off.
Linkage is likely to be ok, as it gets inspected regularly ( its a race car) , there's a possibility it might be snagging on something like the exhaust.
Gearbox was working fine just before I changed the 5th gear synchroniser hub. It's a simple pull off and push back on change but I wonder if I've knocked the whole of the gear shaft out by a mm or 2 although I can't see how I could have done that.
yes because it's such a simple change to do. Pull the pin out of the selector fork, remove the circlip on the synchro hub, remove it, then fitting is the reversal of removing.
I can't see what I could have done to upset it.
(synchroniser was baulking hence the replacement)
the oil that came out of it was not the cleanest so it maybe knackered in more than one way.
So whilst I am thinking that it is likely the box will have to come off and be rebuilt, I would like to check other options before jumping straight to that one.
I can't see what I could have done to upset it.
(synchroniser was baulking hence the replacement)
the oil that came out of it was not the cleanest so it maybe knackered in more than one way.
So whilst I am thinking that it is likely the box will have to come off and be rebuilt, I would like to check other options before jumping straight to that one.
Dynion Araf Uchaf said:
yes because it's such a simple change to do. Pull the pin out of the selector fork, remove the circlip on the synchro hub, remove it, then fitting is the reversal of removing.
I can't see what I could have done to upset it.
(synchroniser was baulking hence the replacement)
the oil that came out of it was not the cleanest so it maybe knackered in more than one way.
So whilst I am thinking that it is likely the box will have to come off and be rebuilt, I would like to check other options before jumping straight to that one.
If you had mentioned that in your op i would have said it sounds like you have moved the selector shaft somehow, as reverse and fith sometimes use the same selector shaft.I can't see what I could have done to upset it.
(synchroniser was baulking hence the replacement)
the oil that came out of it was not the cleanest so it maybe knackered in more than one way.
So whilst I am thinking that it is likely the box will have to come off and be rebuilt, I would like to check other options before jumping straight to that one.
GreenV8S said:
Did you need to split the 'box from the engine to do that? If so I'd wonder whether you may have borked the pilot bearing on reassembly.
Is the clutch problem also new?
Clutch problem not new. Clutch is fairly new however. It’s a later generation ma box with longer splines, I think it should use a self adjusting clutch cable but it’s currently running a manual adjusting clutch, as that’s what the last box needed. Is the clutch problem also new?
Dynion Araf Uchaf said:
I think it should use a self adjusting clutch cable
You certain that it's a self-adjusting cable you're talking about rather than a self-adjusting clutch? Self-adjusting clutches ie where the pivot points adjust themselves to accomodate friction plate wear can produce some unintuitive behaviour if they aren't set right.GreenV8S said:
Dynion Araf Uchaf said:
I think it should use a self adjusting clutch cable
You certain that it's a self-adjusting cable you're talking about rather than a self-adjusting clutch? Self-adjusting clutches ie where the pivot points adjust themselves to accomodate friction plate wear can produce some unintuitive behaviour if they aren't set right.Ford used to have the auto adjusting clutch mechanism on the pedal, french stuff used a similar system but part of the cable. both were a bit unreliable.
Anyway having done a bit of investigation this morning, it appears that I can now select gears when the engine is off. I think rolling the car around has aligned the synchros to allow that to happen. Next step was to try and engage a gear with the engine on, unfortunately that was still not possible. I adjusted the clutch, still no improvement,so that leads me to conclude that the clutch is knackered, and or some other issue like damaged pressure plate. So I’ll have to take the box off and investigate. I hate that job on this car. On the plus side it’ll be a free repair as I have a spears clutch and pressure plate.
Every cloud and all that…
Every cloud and all that…
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