Air con re-gas - good t warm again
Discussion
Hi there
The wife's 2007 swift had air conditioning hat wasn't cold.since we purchased it.
Took it for a re-gas at a tyre fitting place with one of those machines they just plug it into: £75 and an hour later and it was freezing cold.
Their thermometer showed about 8 degrees in the vent with ambient temps about 25. All good. They were really busy so I got no printout of what they did etc.
Next day- fine
Day after - not cold
Day after that - not cold either
Just taken it out myself and had a look.
- the air con belt is tight
- there are enough puddles or weeping of refrigerant I can see
and with air con switched on
- the radiator fan comes on
- the idle up speed increase engages correcly
But air remains at ambient temp. Simple me thinks maybe there's a leak of refrigerant? That takes 2 days to empty.
But I recall the systems used by garages should check for leaks before refiling?
The compressor does seem hot to the touch, but it's next to the catalytic converter so it could just be heat soak.
Has anyone had any experience of air con faults like this?
I tempted to go back to the garage and moan, but they are a tyre/ exhaust place and don't really do air con diagnostic work as such. I could probably get a free air con check out of them if I pushed I suppose.
Thanks
Ian
The wife's 2007 swift had air conditioning hat wasn't cold.since we purchased it.
Took it for a re-gas at a tyre fitting place with one of those machines they just plug it into: £75 and an hour later and it was freezing cold.
Their thermometer showed about 8 degrees in the vent with ambient temps about 25. All good. They were really busy so I got no printout of what they did etc.
Next day- fine
Day after - not cold
Day after that - not cold either
Just taken it out myself and had a look.
- the air con belt is tight
- there are enough puddles or weeping of refrigerant I can see
and with air con switched on
- the radiator fan comes on
- the idle up speed increase engages correcly
But air remains at ambient temp. Simple me thinks maybe there's a leak of refrigerant? That takes 2 days to empty.
But I recall the systems used by garages should check for leaks before refiling?
The compressor does seem hot to the touch, but it's next to the catalytic converter so it could just be heat soak.
Has anyone had any experience of air con faults like this?
I tempted to go back to the garage and moan, but they are a tyre/ exhaust place and don't really do air con diagnostic work as such. I could probably get a free air con check out of them if I pushed I suppose.
Thanks
Ian
id avoid tyre centers , they do a quick splash n dash and as youve found out its all leaked out over a few days
can often spot a oily patch on the condenser or around a fitting , its nearly always the condensor rotted or stone damage , wouldnt be a awful bet to grab one and fit it diy before paying out £100 a time to have it checked
i wasted alot of money having mine looked at here n there and it was the condensor all along , if id have known it would be £60 plus the regas but i spend way more with idiots
can often spot a oily patch on the condenser or around a fitting , its nearly always the condensor rotted or stone damage , wouldnt be a awful bet to grab one and fit it diy before paying out £100 a time to have it checked
i wasted alot of money having mine looked at here n there and it was the condensor all along , if id have known it would be £60 plus the regas but i spend way more with idiots
First thing to check if you can see it.
Does the clutch on the compressor "engage" the compressor when you switch on the AC?
If it does then the system thinks there is enough pressure/refrigerant in the system to operate.
Most likely cause is as stated above, you have a slight leak in the system quite possibly from the condenser.
They all have to test the system for leaks before re-gassing alas, it is only a 10/15 minute check so a slight leak may be very easily missed.
Personally, I would book it in somewhere & ask them to evacuate the system & pressurise then check for leaks with "leak detector spray" which is just a soapy solution that shows bubbles where there is a leak.
Does the clutch on the compressor "engage" the compressor when you switch on the AC?
If it does then the system thinks there is enough pressure/refrigerant in the system to operate.
Most likely cause is as stated above, you have a slight leak in the system quite possibly from the condenser.
They all have to test the system for leaks before re-gassing alas, it is only a 10/15 minute check so a slight leak may be very easily missed.
Personally, I would book it in somewhere & ask them to evacuate the system & pressurise then check for leaks with "leak detector spray" which is just a soapy solution that shows bubbles where there is a leak.
Find out if they add leak detection dye as a matter of course (I know ATS Euromaster to; and they are a similarly-non-specialist when it comes to aircon) as such a quick loss ought to be easily traceable with a UV torch.
Note that the system tightness test is normally done under vacuum, and so doesn't accurately represent the pressurised state under operation. Leaks due to things like failing o-rings might not manifest themselves under such differences in state.
Note that the system tightness test is normally done under vacuum, and so doesn't accurately represent the pressurised state under operation. Leaks due to things like failing o-rings might not manifest themselves under such differences in state.
Edited by tux850 on Thursday 4th July 10:54
Just had 2 cars done at a local tyre place.
The machine will put the system under pressure for a bit and do a leak test for a few minutes, the one I used added the dye and oil as part of the process.
I know all this as I ask lots of questions and watched the process being done. When I was talking (interrogating ) the nice man he said that often clutches go or stick, but the most common failure is the pressure switch.
As part of the process it should tell you how much gas your system had left as it sucks it out. They need about 70% of the recommended amount of gas to operate.
The machine will put the system under pressure for a bit and do a leak test for a few minutes, the one I used added the dye and oil as part of the process.
I know all this as I ask lots of questions and watched the process being done. When I was talking (interrogating ) the nice man he said that often clutches go or stick, but the most common failure is the pressure switch.
As part of the process it should tell you how much gas your system had left as it sucks it out. They need about 70% of the recommended amount of gas to operate.
I had a Suzuki Ignis Sport 2005. I finally got round to getting the air con fixed.
Leak detection with dye. Passed ok then regassed. Worked for a couple of days then leak again.
Compressor had already been replaced after previous leak detected.
This time took it back into the garage who noticed that the dye is showing the condensor is leaking. This was replaced and now all working properly.
It takes a couple of attempts to get it fixed. If it is a small leak then it won't be detected first time round but as you use the air con and it leaks again with dye in it then the garage will be able to work out where the small leak is.
Leak detection with dye. Passed ok then regassed. Worked for a couple of days then leak again.
Compressor had already been replaced after previous leak detected.
This time took it back into the garage who noticed that the dye is showing the condensor is leaking. This was replaced and now all working properly.
It takes a couple of attempts to get it fixed. If it is a small leak then it won't be detected first time round but as you use the air con and it leaks again with dye in it then the garage will be able to work out where the small leak is.
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