Nissan Qashqai CV Drive shaft stuck
Discussion
I need to replace the clutch on my 2011 Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dci, How can i remove the right hand side cv drive shaft.
I started the strip down only to get stuck on removing the right hand side cv drive shaft, the shaft is stuck in the support bearing, i've tried heating the support and tapping it out, lots of penatrating fluid, i then removed the three bolts holding the support housing to the back of the block, expecting that the drive shaft would then pull out with the housing attached, but it only travels around 1cm forward as there is a lip on the housing that hits the block stopping it from been pulled out.
I ordered a cv axle puller slide hammer tool, but theres not enough room for it work the slide hammer is too short, i've looked online for an extension amazon have one but it will have to be sent from the USA to UK delivery is 10th june, i didn't know when i got it off ebay the threads were 5/8 18 UNF, i thought if was too short i'd make an extension out of some threaded metric studding and connector, thats not doable now.
I'm thinking of cutting the axle in two so the support housing can be removed with part of the axle still attached and the remaining axle pulled out of the case, will an angle grinder be able to cut through a drive shaft or would a reciprocating saw be better, i'm doing this with car on jack stands, two either side and the rear wheels on the floor and chocked. The drive shaft didn't need replacing but i'm willing to get a new one so i can crack on and get my clutch repalced.
Is there anything else i can try or any tricks to remove a rusted in driveshaft, anyone had the same problem, i wasn't expecting to get stuck so early on in the strip down, i need to get my car back up and running, Thanks Jack
I started the strip down only to get stuck on removing the right hand side cv drive shaft, the shaft is stuck in the support bearing, i've tried heating the support and tapping it out, lots of penatrating fluid, i then removed the three bolts holding the support housing to the back of the block, expecting that the drive shaft would then pull out with the housing attached, but it only travels around 1cm forward as there is a lip on the housing that hits the block stopping it from been pulled out.
I ordered a cv axle puller slide hammer tool, but theres not enough room for it work the slide hammer is too short, i've looked online for an extension amazon have one but it will have to be sent from the USA to UK delivery is 10th june, i didn't know when i got it off ebay the threads were 5/8 18 UNF, i thought if was too short i'd make an extension out of some threaded metric studding and connector, thats not doable now.
I'm thinking of cutting the axle in two so the support housing can be removed with part of the axle still attached and the remaining axle pulled out of the case, will an angle grinder be able to cut through a drive shaft or would a reciprocating saw be better, i'm doing this with car on jack stands, two either side and the rear wheels on the floor and chocked. The drive shaft didn't need replacing but i'm willing to get a new one so i can crack on and get my clutch repalced.
Is there anything else i can try or any tricks to remove a rusted in driveshaft, anyone had the same problem, i wasn't expecting to get stuck so early on in the strip down, i need to get my car back up and running, Thanks Jack
Edited by jackking on Friday 31st May 19:31
Edited by jackking on Friday 31st May 19:33
Does it look like there's enough corrosion for it to have rusted into the support bearing?
I haven't done it on that car, but as far as I understand it the gearbox end should pull out of the diff with a little encouragement the same as the NS driveshaft did, and all the support bearing does is keep it in line. Can you lever the back of the CV cup away from the center bearing carrier? From your description I assume the bearing should normally be free to slide along the shaft.
Do you have the replacement driveshaft assembly and center bearing assembly?
If you're going to remove it destructively then you will obviously need to replace it, and you'd want to have the replacement in your hand before you destroy the old one. Having the replacement in your hand would also enable you to understand how the center bearing fits to the shaft.
I haven't done it on that car, but as far as I understand it the gearbox end should pull out of the diff with a little encouragement the same as the NS driveshaft did, and all the support bearing does is keep it in line. Can you lever the back of the CV cup away from the center bearing carrier? From your description I assume the bearing should normally be free to slide along the shaft.
Do you have the replacement driveshaft assembly and center bearing assembly?
If you're going to remove it destructively then you will obviously need to replace it, and you'd want to have the replacement in your hand before you destroy the old one. Having the replacement in your hand would also enable you to understand how the center bearing fits to the shaft.
Yeah it''s well and truly seized in the support bracket, if nissan hadn't put a lip on the bracket the drive shaft and bracket would have come out as one.
I got a slide hammer cv axle remover expecting it to do the job but not enough room for it work it's too short, it needs an extension bar, the only one i can find is in the states as its got unf threads.
I will order a new axle tomorrow so i have one in hand, i'm hoping i'll be able to remove and reuse the bracket once the axle is out, i don't really want to cut the axle out but if it's the only way i have no choice.
I got a slide hammer cv axle remover expecting it to do the job but not enough room for it work it's too short, it needs an extension bar, the only one i can find is in the states as its got unf threads.
I will order a new axle tomorrow so i have one in hand, i'm hoping i'll be able to remove and reuse the bracket once the axle is out, i don't really want to cut the axle out but if it's the only way i have no choice.
STOP! DON'T DESTROY ANYTHING!
I done clutches on them and Renaults with the same mechanicals, can't recall anything like the trouble you're having, and certainly would not resort to chopping the shaft ...you'll not get the exchange surcharge back on it!
If the bracket will not move sufficiently to allow LINEAR extraction of the shaft (which will likely be just a sliding fit with no circlip), then the bearing is intended to slide out of the housing. Indeed, I've seen some that are dowelled to the block so there is no option other than to remove this way. Often there is enough room to get a small drift on the back (gearbox side) of the bearing to get it moving. Double check that there are no hidden fasteners retaining the bearing...
Rather than wait for an expensive adapter from the States for your slide hammer, all you need is a nut and a bolt/stud of the correct thread, with a rod welded between them, get a few of the nuts and you'll be able to make up many different threaded adapters in the future.
I done clutches on them and Renaults with the same mechanicals, can't recall anything like the trouble you're having, and certainly would not resort to chopping the shaft ...you'll not get the exchange surcharge back on it!
If the bracket will not move sufficiently to allow LINEAR extraction of the shaft (which will likely be just a sliding fit with no circlip), then the bearing is intended to slide out of the housing. Indeed, I've seen some that are dowelled to the block so there is no option other than to remove this way. Often there is enough room to get a small drift on the back (gearbox side) of the bearing to get it moving. Double check that there are no hidden fasteners retaining the bearing...
Rather than wait for an expensive adapter from the States for your slide hammer, all you need is a nut and a bolt/stud of the correct thread, with a rod welded between them, get a few of the nuts and you'll be able to make up many different threaded adapters in the future.
stevieturbo said:
Post a picture of exactly what you're trying to take apart.
It should not usually be difficult to remove the complete shaft from the transmission
^^^^ Wot 'e said.It should not usually be difficult to remove the complete shaft from the transmission
We need to see a pic as it sounds like you may be trying to do something either wrong, or that doesn't need doing.
This is the bracket
I've watched a few videos on youtube of nissans with same problem, they used oxy/acetylene torch to heat up the housing and hammer the drive shaft out.
I used a mapp gas torch so i might not have got the bracket hot enough, i'll give the heat another go and leave it longer to heat up.
As advised I'll will also make an homemade extention bar with a bolt and nut welded on.
I don't have an air hammer but i have a bosch drill with hammer function thats used for chisseling, would using this instead of me trying to hammer it out be better than me trying to knock it out with hammer and chissel.
I've watched a few videos on youtube of nissans with same problem, they used oxy/acetylene torch to heat up the housing and hammer the drive shaft out.
I used a mapp gas torch so i might not have got the bracket hot enough, i'll give the heat another go and leave it longer to heat up.
As advised I'll will also make an homemade extention bar with a bolt and nut welded on.
I don't have an air hammer but i have a bosch drill with hammer function thats used for chisseling, would using this instead of me trying to hammer it out be better than me trying to knock it out with hammer and chissel.
Check the basics… have you removed the locking plate that holds the driveshaft bearing into the housing? The photo above looks like it’s still there.
Assuming you have… I had this recently when removing the driveshaft from a Clio 200. It all looks very similar, as you’d expect. I used a drift against the gearbox side of the bearing, and it came out after some mild beating, although I did manage to damage the bearing’s seal in the process.
Good luck!
Assuming you have… I had this recently when removing the driveshaft from a Clio 200. It all looks very similar, as you’d expect. I used a drift against the gearbox side of the bearing, and it came out after some mild beating, although I did manage to damage the bearing’s seal in the process.
Good luck!
jackking said:
This is the bracket
I've watched a few videos on youtube of nissans with same problem, they used oxy/acetylene torch to heat up the housing and hammer the drive shaft out.
I used a mapp gas torch so i might not have got the bracket hot enough, i'll give the heat another go and leave it longer to heat up.
As advised I'll will also make an homemade extention bar with a bolt and nut welded on.
I don't have an air hammer but i have a bosch drill with hammer function thats used for chisseling, would using this instead of me trying to hammer it out be better than me trying to knock it out with hammer and chissel.
So you're trying to say you cannot undo the bolt pictured ? and undoubtedly another one higher up to detach that from the block ?I've watched a few videos on youtube of nissans with same problem, they used oxy/acetylene torch to heat up the housing and hammer the drive shaft out.
I used a mapp gas torch so i might not have got the bracket hot enough, i'll give the heat another go and leave it longer to heat up.
As advised I'll will also make an homemade extention bar with a bolt and nut welded on.
I don't have an air hammer but i have a bosch drill with hammer function thats used for chisseling, would using this instead of me trying to hammer it out be better than me trying to knock it out with hammer and chissel.
Head doesn't even look to have witness parks on it as if it has tried to be undone ?
Apologies, i should have said that photo is an image capture from a youtube video of the same car with the same problem before any work was done.
On mine i've removed the two securing bolts holding the plate on, i've also had the three bolts out that holds housing bracket to block expecting to take that and drive shaft out as one but you cant as there is a lip on it that prevents it from sliding forward, i've put the three housing bolts back in so i can carry on trying to knock or pull the drive shaft out. I've had a chissel, pry bar, crow bar knocked up between the bracket and the shaft it just won't budge.
The bearing on the drive shaft is siezed in the housing, my problem is getting it out.
On mine i've removed the two securing bolts holding the plate on, i've also had the three bolts out that holds housing bracket to block expecting to take that and drive shaft out as one but you cant as there is a lip on it that prevents it from sliding forward, i've put the three housing bolts back in so i can carry on trying to knock or pull the drive shaft out. I've had a chissel, pry bar, crow bar knocked up between the bracket and the shaft it just won't budge.
The bearing on the drive shaft is siezed in the housing, my problem is getting it out.
Edited by jackking on Sunday 2nd June 10:17
Edited by jackking on Sunday 2nd June 10:23
Surely that large alloy bracket will just unbolt easily and pull it out and shaft complete ?
Or more fiddly, just remove the trans with the shaft in place ? Although it'd be more tricky getting it back together I'd think
This setup ? from around 8m
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3ic5aANmxo
Or more fiddly, just remove the trans with the shaft in place ? Although it'd be more tricky getting it back together I'd think
This setup ? from around 8m
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3ic5aANmxo
Steve, as OP said, the bearing bracket on his car will not move to OS enough before fouling a projection on the block (another brilliant bit of Renault design 
) so the steel bearing has to be slid out of the alloy bracket... the clue to the problem he's encountering is in the dissimilar metals...
However, I've always found that a long tapered drift with a well aimed No3 Thor is sufficiently persuasive.
) so the steel bearing has to be slid out of the alloy bracket... the clue to the problem he's encountering is in the dissimilar metals... However, I've always found that a long tapered drift with a well aimed No3 Thor is sufficiently persuasive.
TwinKam said:
Steve, as OP said, the bearing bracket on his car will not move to OS enough before fouling a projection on the block (another brilliant bit of Renault design ) so the steel bearing has to be slid out of the alloy bracket... the clue to the problem he's encountering is in the dissimilar metals...
However, I've always found that a long tapered drift with a well aimed No3 Thor is sufficiently persuasive.
This ^ get some heat into that alloy bracket ) so the steel bearing has to be slid out of the alloy bracket... the clue to the problem he's encountering is in the dissimilar metals... However, I've always found that a long tapered drift with a well aimed No3 Thor is sufficiently persuasive.
blow torch etc (avoid gaiter area) and fire some maintenance freeze spray into and around the support bearing then try drifting like Twincam statesI tried heating the bracket again and using a drift to knock it out, it still didn't pop out, i also tried pulling it out with a cv axle puller with my homemade extension bar i gave it a really good bashing with no luck, i ended up cutting the shaft it came straight out, this was the last resort, it took some bashing to get the axle out of the bracket even with it removed from the car.
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