VW Caddy clutch replacement
Discussion
Having successfully changed the timing belt on my 2008 Caddy, I’ve now decided to tackle the clutch/flywheel. Although it’s only done 70k, it’s been almost exclusively used for deliveries one day a week in a city centre hence the change (the bearing has gone and it’s also really heavy). I picked up a Sachs DMF and clutch kit from eBay with a 20% promotion from a trusted parts supplier, so the kit came in at £210, which was a lot less than expected.
I’ve been following some excellent YT videos, and so far I’ve disconnected everything I need to around the gearbox, and this morning I managed to lift it out without too much hassle. The only socket missing from my set is a 9mm, which I need to remove the old clutch plate before I take off the flywheel, so progress has been halted for the day.
Quick question, and I appreciate the answer may well be obvious; the Sachs flywheel and clutch came bolted together (see pics). I was going to purchase a centreing tool, as all the videos I’ve watched have the DMF and clutch coming separately, but can I safely assume that this is pre-installed and centred from the factory? It certainly looks to be (the first picture was taken at an angle). I just want to make sure I get this 100% right given the amount of work involved.
Thanks in advance. I will probably have some more questions when it comes to putting it all back together….! It all looks a bit daunting with parts covering the garage floor, but I’m sure I will get there….
I’ve been following some excellent YT videos, and so far I’ve disconnected everything I need to around the gearbox, and this morning I managed to lift it out without too much hassle. The only socket missing from my set is a 9mm, which I need to remove the old clutch plate before I take off the flywheel, so progress has been halted for the day.
Quick question, and I appreciate the answer may well be obvious; the Sachs flywheel and clutch came bolted together (see pics). I was going to purchase a centreing tool, as all the videos I’ve watched have the DMF and clutch coming separately, but can I safely assume that this is pre-installed and centred from the factory? It certainly looks to be (the first picture was taken at an angle). I just want to make sure I get this 100% right given the amount of work involved.
Thanks in advance. I will probably have some more questions when it comes to putting it all back together….! It all looks a bit daunting with parts covering the garage floor, but I’m sure I will get there….
You can access the flywheel bolts through the clutch, and the bolts were already dropped into place. I’ve seen a number of Sachs units advertised as preassembled, but it didn’t mention it on this one. The picture was taken at an angle, but when you look at it straight on it appears centralised. I will give it a check with my vernier gauge today.
Belle427 said:
Probably quite awkward to get in on and bolted up.
The plot thickens. I decided to order a centering tool as on closer inspection it wasn’t centered, and I’ve just removed the clutch from the flywheel and there is oily marks on the flywheel and clutch, and I doubt it left the factory like that so more than likely a return.
I'd expect an oily substance on the flywheel - stops it rusting in storage/transit - and so would need cleaning off with brake cleaner. But, yeah, not on the friction disc. How was it packaged together? Might it have been opened at some point, perhaps just by someone to confirm the right part or whatever, and then all put back without adequate seperation to avoid cross-contamination?
I'd be sending it back I think - you obviously don't want oil on the friction plate, and I'm sure this is one of those situations where Haynes warns about there not being any reliable and effective way of decontaminating the friction surface (even though in practice there probably is).
I'd be sending it back I think - you obviously don't want oil on the friction plate, and I'm sure this is one of those situations where Haynes warns about there not being any reliable and effective way of decontaminating the friction surface (even though in practice there probably is).
tux850 said:
I'd expect an oily substance on the flywheel - stops it rusting in storage/transit - and so would need cleaning off with brake cleaner. But, yeah, not on the friction disc. How was it packaged together? Might it have been opened at some point, perhaps just by someone to confirm the right part or whatever, and then all put back without adequate seperation to avoid cross-contamination?
I'd be sending it back I think - you obviously don't want oil on the friction plate, and I'm sure this is one of those situations where Haynes warns about there not being any reliable and effective way of decontaminating the friction surface (even though in practice there probably is).
Thanks for that. The flywheel and clutch where bolted together, so I’m glad I took it apart as I first thought it was meant to be preassembled, in which case there shouldn’t be any sign of contamination on the flywheel as it was direct contact with the friction surface of the clutch.I'd be sending it back I think - you obviously don't want oil on the friction plate, and I'm sure this is one of those situations where Haynes warns about there not being any reliable and effective way of decontaminating the friction surface (even though in practice there probably is).
Where the PP bolts tight ?
I've never seen a clutch come assembled like that, but I've also never seen a clutch where you could access the flywheel bolts with it assembled.
Does the cover have some sort of self adjusting mechanism as many modern ones do ? Taking it apart may well have screwed that up and it will now need reset if it does.
I've never seen a clutch come assembled like that, but I've also never seen a clutch where you could access the flywheel bolts with it assembled.
Does the cover have some sort of self adjusting mechanism as many modern ones do ? Taking it apart may well have screwed that up and it will now need reset if it does.
This guy seems to take it apart as normal. Although his flywheel torquing perhaps is debatable. Clutch he is fitting does have self adjusting mech.
Oddly clutch on the image at the start, is not the clutch he is changing though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLw54ZZXMUI
Oddly clutch on the image at the start, is not the clutch he is changing though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLw54ZZXMUI
Edited by stevieturbo on Saturday 7th October 10:09
Thanks for the replies. I had a closer look at the clutch/flywheel assembly and I think I’m being over cautious as it cleaned up okay and the clutch itself doesn’t appear to be contaminated (it’s just a darker area of the friction material). The going rate for the Sachs flywheel/kit is around £280/300, but this was £267 less an ebay promotion of 20% - they are a big parts seller with really good feedback so I think they are reputable.
I centered it and bolted it together; you need to put it together a certain way to allow access for the flywheel bolts. It was difficult on my own as it’s heavy but I managed to get it bolted up to the engine, and then the fun began trying to get the gearbox back on myself. The diff is obstructed by the inner part of the lower control arm so it need to be lifted up at an angle. This was made more difficult because I had to leave the dog bone on as the bolt is completely seized but that’s a job for another day! I used a combination of some ratchet straps and a trolley jack to help position it and it finally slotted back into place.
I’m replacing the clutch salve cylinder, so will have to work out how to bleed it myself (I have an unused easy bleed kit) before putting much more back on so I can make sure it feels okay.
I centered it and bolted it together; you need to put it together a certain way to allow access for the flywheel bolts. It was difficult on my own as it’s heavy but I managed to get it bolted up to the engine, and then the fun began trying to get the gearbox back on myself. The diff is obstructed by the inner part of the lower control arm so it need to be lifted up at an angle. This was made more difficult because I had to leave the dog bone on as the bolt is completely seized but that’s a job for another day! I used a combination of some ratchet straps and a trolley jack to help position it and it finally slotted back into place.
I’m replacing the clutch salve cylinder, so will have to work out how to bleed it myself (I have an unused easy bleed kit) before putting much more back on so I can make sure it feels okay.
It does appear it is a self adjusting clutch.
So hopefully nothing has been disturbed that shouldn't have been during install. Instructions are a little sparse
https://aftermarket.zf.com/en/aftermarket-portal/s...
https://aftermarket.zf.com/app/controller/opc/getM...
So hopefully nothing has been disturbed that shouldn't have been during install. Instructions are a little sparse
https://aftermarket.zf.com/en/aftermarket-portal/s...
https://aftermarket.zf.com/app/controller/opc/getM...
Thanks again for all the replies. It’s all back together and from the short drive I’ve just done it all appears to be good.
I thought I had messed up the clutch as it felt like there was hardly any resistance once I had bled it, but I’m so conditioned to the van having a really heavy clutch peddle; it feels so much nicer to drive and no more noise from the release bearing.
I tried the Gunson easy bleed, but I mustn’t have filled up the reservoir enough and air must have got into the system as the clutch feed pipe is apparently quite high on the side. I then tried letting gravity do its thing (thanks Stevie) and it worked.
I contacted the clutch flywheel supplier on Friday re the issue, but as I previously mentioned I decided just to fit it. On Saturday morning a really heavy parcel arrived unexpectedly- they had sent a new flywheel/clutch, which is pretty good customer service!
So having repaired/replaced quite a bit of the wiring loom in the engine bay due to rats, the timing belt, sump, clutch/flywheel/slave cylinder/new wheel/servicing, I now need to just enjoy using it before doing anything else on it! It’s been quite a steep learning curve!
I thought I had messed up the clutch as it felt like there was hardly any resistance once I had bled it, but I’m so conditioned to the van having a really heavy clutch peddle; it feels so much nicer to drive and no more noise from the release bearing.
I tried the Gunson easy bleed, but I mustn’t have filled up the reservoir enough and air must have got into the system as the clutch feed pipe is apparently quite high on the side. I then tried letting gravity do its thing (thanks Stevie) and it worked.
I contacted the clutch flywheel supplier on Friday re the issue, but as I previously mentioned I decided just to fit it. On Saturday morning a really heavy parcel arrived unexpectedly- they had sent a new flywheel/clutch, which is pretty good customer service!
So having repaired/replaced quite a bit of the wiring loom in the engine bay due to rats, the timing belt, sump, clutch/flywheel/slave cylinder/new wheel/servicing, I now need to just enjoy using it before doing anything else on it! It’s been quite a steep learning curve!
Looks like I spoke too soon. Now I know how Escy feels with his Jaguar F Pace thread (well maybe not quite as bad)!
I took it for 6 mile drive. Up until 4 miles everything was fine (no unusual noises), then I could hear a rattling noise, so headed home. If sounds like it’s coming from the bell housing; I initially thought it wasn’t impacted by depressing the clutch but have just confirmed it does -
https://youtu.be/v4PEnHZfwGU?si=UCKhd_7GJCDv6LgT
I’ve obviously done something wrong, but I was really careful tightening up bolts to their correct torque etc. It’s pretty demoralising!
I took it for 6 mile drive. Up until 4 miles everything was fine (no unusual noises), then I could hear a rattling noise, so headed home. If sounds like it’s coming from the bell housing; I initially thought it wasn’t impacted by depressing the clutch but have just confirmed it does -
https://youtu.be/v4PEnHZfwGU?si=UCKhd_7GJCDv6LgT
I’ve obviously done something wrong, but I was really careful tightening up bolts to their correct torque etc. It’s pretty demoralising!
Edited by tim0409 on Tuesday 10th October 13:47
Belle427 said:
Id be interested to know why the access holes though, normally means it comes already assembled, set up and ready to go.
The LUK clutches on VAG vehicles I have fitted are ready to bolt up via those relieved release fingers like you suggest I always check cover to fly bolts but have yet to find any that are not tightened , the disc is pre aligned the lot 
if an assy look tampered with I would back it instantly however the motor trade can be the worse for this 
I had to pull it all apart again, which I was dreading but having done it once before I was a lot quicker this time. I spoke to a couple of people with experience of clutch changes on the 1.9 TDi and they both immediately suggested the dust shield having been bent when I was reinstalling the gearbox. It expands when the engine heats up and rubs against the back of the flywheel. I decided to order a new shield from TPS for £15, which was half the price of a second hand one on eBay. Instead of using ratchet straps to hoist the engine into position, which is difficult as the diff needs to clear the rear subframe at an angle, I decided to use all my strength and carefully lift it into position. I took it for a drive this morning and it’s now perfect.
Firstly well done.
Secondly, its been a few years since i've changed a clutch and i hope never to have to do another but regarding the centreing tool, i've had better success centreing by eye and by feeling around the outside of the driven plate, assuming the pressure plate is of a design you can get your fingers in and feel where its sitting.
The only exception is where it's been a regular clutch job (ie mates with same cars) and we've had the correct spare input shaft from an otherwise scrap gearbox, that's the ideal.
Secondly, its been a few years since i've changed a clutch and i hope never to have to do another but regarding the centreing tool, i've had better success centreing by eye and by feeling around the outside of the driven plate, assuming the pressure plate is of a design you can get your fingers in and feel where its sitting.
The only exception is where it's been a regular clutch job (ie mates with same cars) and we've had the correct spare input shaft from an otherwise scrap gearbox, that's the ideal.
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