VW Caddy timing belt replacement

[tim0409]

Hi there

I’m just looking for some advice, tips and tricks on changing a timing belt. I was gifted a 2008 Caddy (1.9), which has seen better days after rats nested in the engine bay and chewed through multiple wires. I have recently moved into a house with a double garage, and decided it would make a great project as it’s only done 70k and worth saving. I’ve fixed all the electrics/wires/abs/etc, and there are no longer any fault codes, and it passed its MOT last week. It was a delivery van at my wife’s work and has been unloved, and there is no record of the timing belt ever being changed.

I’ve been doing basic maintenance on cars for years, but never attempted anything quite as involved, although I did change a chassis on a 2CV, which for some reason was less scary than a timing belt!

I seem to be making more of this than I should, probably because a friend took his Caddy to Arnold Clark for a timing belt and they managed to destroy the valves/top end in the process. They took months to resolve it and he was in a AC hire car for the duration.

I’ve watched countless youtube videos on the process, and I have the VW workshop manual. I’ve ordered a DAYCO belt and water pump. I can buy a cheap timing tool for eBAY (£10) or a Sealey version at £40?

I could get this done by a garage, but I really fancy the challenge!

So, any tips/tricks?

Thanks

[Belle427]

There are some good videos around depending on which engine you have but you have probably seen them.
Use the correct timing tools as its much easier, nothing fancy about them but there are different types mainly for the crank locking so make sure it's right.
Take your time, it's not rocket science.
That moment you turn the key after completing the job is always a nervy one.

[tim0409]

Thanks for that. I’ve watched quite a few of the guides so I’m just going to take my time and double check everything as I go!

[richhead]

I would also say, having done hundreds of not more timing belts, they aren't that difficult, often the hard bit is access, but not on a caddy, but I would say, when finished, and before starting it, always turn it over at least twice by hand, and check timing marks/ pins.

[tim0409]

Thanks for the advice. I’ve started dismantling to get access, and I was curious to see what condition the belt was in. It looks like it’s original (so 14 years old) and well overdue…..

[fourstardan]

tim0409 said:

Thanks for the advice. I’ve started dismantling to get access, and I was curious to see what condition the belt was in. It looks like it’s original (so 14 years old) and well overdue…..

Sure the rats haven't gone through that?

[tim0409]

fourstardan said:

Sure the rats haven't gone through that?

If it wasn’t behind a cover I would have put money on it as they seem to have set home in most other parts of the engine bay!

[InitialDave]

Of all the engines you could try for a first-time cambelt job, these are pretty straightforward, tbh the only tricky bit is the transverse layout meaning access isn't amazing.

[Belle427]

Don't overlook the Auxilliary belt either, they can shred and find their way into the timing cover.

[fourstardan]

InitialDave said:

Of all the engines you could try for a first-time cambelt job, these are pretty straightforward, tbh the only tricky bit is the transverse layout meaning access isn't amazing.

If it's like a VW golf mk5 my (mechanic) mate did it on the drive.

Engine needed to be unmounted and jacked.

Make sure you replace the engine mount bolts as they went on the Golf.

[tim0409]

Hi

Looking for a bit of further advice on this….

I’ve stripped everything I need to access the timing belt, including supporting the engine and removing the mount. I’ve locked the crankshaft with the proper timing tool, and I know need to lock the camshaft. The pin won’t go all the way into the locating hole in the engine block, although I can see with my mirror that it must be very close. I also note that the tensioner is out as the marker should be in the gap (see picture). Can I slacken the bolt on the tensioner and release it to then move the camshaft slightly to locate the locking pin? I suspect the timing is out slightly due to the belt stretching?

I have to say that this is turning out to be quite a big job for me, but I’m enjoying it as I can take my time, but I will be glad when it’s all back together and running!

[Belle427]

Slacken the 3 bolts holding the cam sprocket, you can then turn the cam slightly using the large centre bolt.

[tim0409]

Thanks for that!

[tim0409]

I managed to get the cam pin in, and I have loosened the three camshaft pulley bolts as per the workshop manual, which apparently aides even tensioning when putting the new belt on. The problem I now have is I can’t get the belt on as it’s a really tight fit. I’ve fitted a new Dayco tensioner (and water pump) and wound it back but no luck. I know I must be doing something wrong as all the parts are correct and it shouldn’t be this difficult. I’m going to leave it for a bit as I’m starting to get frustrated.

I’m very much at the point where I wished I’d never started this!! Back to searching YT!

[tim0409]

Thanks for that. I’ve taken the bottom roller off and it’s still not even close to fitting. I’m seriously struggling with this. The belt checks out as being the correct part.
I’ve attached a picture of the tensioner; I’m fitting it over the stud and locating the tab in the block. I’m then winding it anti clockwise with a 6mm allen socket till it looks like it is in the most “untensioned” position (if you continue to rotate it anticlockwise it continues to turn back to being in the tensioned position). Does this sounds correct?

ETA I can only think I’m not winding the tensioner back properly - looking at the VW workshop manual I need to use a two pin wrench to wind it back and not just an allan socket, but they also mention inserting a pin, but the tensioner doesn’t have a hole as per the manual…

Edited by tim0409 on Friday 8th September 17:51

[Belle427]

you can move the tensioner and nip up the bolt in the best location that gives you most slack.
Not sure if you have seen this video, engine may not be identical but the process is much the same.
https://youtu.be/fAi667H7M2Y?si=wQCynNRUHLstWVvD

[tim0409]

Thanks, that video is really helpful. It all looks so much easier with the engine out!

I’m definitely doing something obviously wrong with the tensioner, as when I move it with my allen key the arrow isn’t moving (if that makes sense). It feels like it needs the locking pin but it doesn’t have an obvious hole to locate it. I’m going to do another half hour later to try and solve it otherwise I won’t sleep tonight!

[tim0409]

I’ve uploaded a video to Youtube showing the issue with the tensioner. The first part is the old tensioner and you can see the arrow moving as I increase the tension. The second part is the new tensioner, and it just spins round and the arrow tab doesn’t move? There is no hole to locate a pin.

https://youtu.be/PsSbe7HvuEo?si=nQjfUddadB8Edg8g

[Belle427]

Its difficult to advise without seeing it, is the little tab located in the block recess when your turning it?
Looks like the nut is too loose on the second video to locate it properly.
There are different versions available that use a pin but there are lots of different engine versions. i dont think yours is one of them.

[tim0409]

Thanks again. The tab is definitely located, and it still turns without tensioning. I’ve tried nipping up the nut thinking the pressure would engage some tensioning mechanism but all that happens is you can’t turn it. I’ve searched extensively and there is no instructions online (or with it), and I’m not having much luck with over on the Caddy forum.

I’ve given up and ordered a ContiTech timing belt kit, which comes with a tensioner that is the same as the one I’ve taken off. Unless I know exactly how the Dayco tensioner is installed, there is no way I’m guessing!