Advice on these conrods please.

[anthonyonions]

Hi all, I'm after a bit of advice...

I've been offered these conrods for a good price, and I'm wondering if they might have been compromised by the damage.

[img]http://www.car13.net/temp/eagle1.gif[/img]
[img]http://www.car13.net/temp/eagle2.gif[/img]

Can someone tell me if the damage on the conrod would have any effect on the rods, performance, vibration perhaps?

I'm looking for the 500bhp mark, and need to know if they will be up to the job.

Thanks,
Ant
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[url=http://www.car13.net/][img]http://www.red-raw.net/car13/Sigs/new_sig.jpg[/img][/url]

[boosted ls1]

You could use those again from what I can see but you will need an expert to mill them flat on the side and he must only remove a few thousands of an inch. They mustn't be thinned to much as that will give them to much side clearance. Ideally an engine builder should do this maching after he has measured the rods and your crank journal width. As for the champhered section of rod that also needs tidying up. Again, minimum metal removal. It won't matter that the machining is removing the shot peening in this area.

New rods are always preferable but needs must sometimes.

Boosted.

[pdV6]

Lose the sig, though, 'tis frowned upon 'round these parts...

[anthonyonions]

boosted ls1 said:

You could use those again from what I can see but you will need an expert to mill them flat on the side and he must only remove a few thousands of an inch. They mustn't be thinned to much as that will give them to much side clearance. Ideally an engine builder should do this maching after he has measured the rods and your crank journal width. As for the champhered section of rod that also needs tidying up. Again, minimum metal removal. It won't matter that the machining is removing the shot peening in this area. New rods are always preferable but needs must sometimes. Boosted.

Thanks for the reply.

They're new rods, and I'm not over the moon about getting them machined. Any ideas what sort of cost would be involved?

[boosted ls1]

anthonyonions said:

boosted ls1 said: You could use those again from what I can see but you will need an expert to mill them flat on the side and he must only remove a few thousands of an inch. They mustn't be thinned to much as that will give them to much side clearance. Ideally an engine builder should do this maching after he has measured the rods and your crank journal width. As for the champhered section of rod that also needs tidying up. Again, minimum metal removal. It won't matter that the machining is removing the shot peening in this area. New rods are always preferable but needs must sometimes. Boosted. Thanks for the reply. They're new rods, and I'm not over the moon about getting them machined. Any ideas what sort of cost would be involved?

You can't use it without machining. I'd fit them into my rod clamp and have them set up on a milling bed. They have to be dead flat. The machining wouldn't take long but the setting up would be finicky. I may have to make a dummy big end journal to hold them in the jig. I'd guess at £50 ish to £100 tops.

Boosted.

[anthonyonions]

Thanks for that info. I may well give you a shout if you can do it.

I'm trying to see if I can buy a single rod, but still waiting for a response.

Ant

[v8 racing]

like boosted said dont remove hardly any metal from the side, personaly i would clamp them to a flet bed and just gently wet and dry the high spots out of them, even brand new good sets you occasionaly need to take off a a though just to get the side clearence, to much and you will just end up spraying oil straight up the cylinder wall

[dilbert]

I don't know how they got damaged like that, but is the hole round?

[boosted ls1]

dilbert said:

I don't know how they got damaged like that, but is the hole round?

I'm curious to. How did they get that damage?

Boosted.

[dilbert]

I'm obviously guessing, but if you dropped them, the damage would be around the outside. Those look to me like something has become jammed between the crank web, and the big end.

Did the crank snap? Did someone go mad with a dremmel.

If the hole is round (you'll need an internal mic), you need to check that the axis of the big and little ends are parallel (in two planes).

>> Edited by dilbert on Thursday 1st September 21:30

[M3 Mitch]

Maybe I'm just a natural pessimist, maybe I have been exposed to the "defense in depth" environment of nuclear things, but I would not install a conrod that I had any questions about.

The consequences of failure are just too severe.

When I bent the crank on my LAWNMOWER, (hit a stump) I pre-emptively replaced the conrod even though it showed no signs of distress.....

How about a nice new set of Carillos for your 500 bhp beast? (I know they are spendy but....worth it for HP applications IMHO)

If I put these in a motor the worrying about one letting go would rather spoil the pleasure of driving it.

[anthonyonions]

I've spoken to Eagle (the manufacturer) and they can sell me a replacement rod so I wont need to worry about getting this one machined.

The rods are brand new and came damaged to the guy I'm buying them from. He didn't have time to source a replacement so bought a new set from someone local to him.

I'm Not entirely sure how the damage occured, but I have made the decision to not use that rod, which I think is the only way to go, especially with the power levels I will be reaching for.

Thanks for your help guys.
Ant