Should I attempt Clutch on Saab 93 Aero V6 2006
Discussion
Hi
Looking for any advice or pointers really, I have a Saab 93 Aero V6 Manual 2006. Recently have done the work on it myself. New rear calipers, discs and pads. Also replaced heating fan and sorted the leak that coming through from engine bay which is a common issue. Hence have some ability to work on car. The car has been tuned to 320 BHP hence would need an uprated clutch I understand. Could get this done at local garage if the clutch they can supply and fit from LUK is up to the job, they are checking wether they can fit and then warranty an uprated clutch if needed.
Essentially for me the challenge of doing it myself appeals and will save me a fair bit of cash as moneys tight. Another mechanic would be happy to come and supervise / sort the actual installation of the clutch to ensure its correctly aligned. This would also then give me time to source a new DMF if the current one is damaged. (stupidly nursed the car home when it was obvious the clutch was knackered...) I do have the option of my garage , would need to check theres actually room and comprehensively sort it to fit the car in or have the option of another undercover area. Would also need to consider how to comprehensively jack up and support the car. Did look at portable lifts etc but this wipes out the cost saving of doing it myself (do have a lift at the end of it.. )
Aware theres a workshop manual online, may get a Haynes as well as numerous youtube vids for reference
What are peoples thoughts about a amateur taking this on and any thoughts around clutch / DMF options.
cheers
Charlie
Looking for any advice or pointers really, I have a Saab 93 Aero V6 Manual 2006. Recently have done the work on it myself. New rear calipers, discs and pads. Also replaced heating fan and sorted the leak that coming through from engine bay which is a common issue. Hence have some ability to work on car. The car has been tuned to 320 BHP hence would need an uprated clutch I understand. Could get this done at local garage if the clutch they can supply and fit from LUK is up to the job, they are checking wether they can fit and then warranty an uprated clutch if needed.
Essentially for me the challenge of doing it myself appeals and will save me a fair bit of cash as moneys tight. Another mechanic would be happy to come and supervise / sort the actual installation of the clutch to ensure its correctly aligned. This would also then give me time to source a new DMF if the current one is damaged. (stupidly nursed the car home when it was obvious the clutch was knackered...) I do have the option of my garage , would need to check theres actually room and comprehensively sort it to fit the car in or have the option of another undercover area. Would also need to consider how to comprehensively jack up and support the car. Did look at portable lifts etc but this wipes out the cost saving of doing it myself (do have a lift at the end of it.. )
Aware theres a workshop manual online, may get a Haynes as well as numerous youtube vids for reference
What are peoples thoughts about a amateur taking this on and any thoughts around clutch / DMF options.
cheers
Charlie
Nobody can answer, because nobody knows your abilities.
And rarely will anyone ever warranty an "uprated" or competition style part, other than for manufacturer defects. Which is very rare. So not sure where the warranty side of the query comes from
Can someone change a flywheel and clutch at home ? Of course they can. Can you ? I've no idea.
Is it nice doing it without a ramp ? Hell no. But it can be done.
Whether the DMF appears ok or not, it's just one of those things you will replace while its apart. Because if it did give trouble further down the line, you'd kick yourself for not doing it.
Of course the opposite could happen too.
And rarely will anyone ever warranty an "uprated" or competition style part, other than for manufacturer defects. Which is very rare. So not sure where the warranty side of the query comes from
Can someone change a flywheel and clutch at home ? Of course they can. Can you ? I've no idea.
Is it nice doing it without a ramp ? Hell no. But it can be done.
Whether the DMF appears ok or not, it's just one of those things you will replace while its apart. Because if it did give trouble further down the line, you'd kick yourself for not doing it.
Of course the opposite could happen too.
If you do this yourself , just jack up the front ,it will be a lot more stable with rear wheels on the ground .
You will need an engine stay to hold engine up when mounting removed to drop out gearbox .
I looked it up , £100 from Machine Mart . I actually have one I don't need and I am not that far from you in Surrey and will sell for considerably less than 100 .
A decent DIY mechanic should be able to do a clutch replacement on a FWD car .
You will need an engine stay to hold engine up when mounting removed to drop out gearbox .
I looked it up , £100 from Machine Mart . I actually have one I don't need and I am not that far from you in Surrey and will sell for considerably less than 100 .
A decent DIY mechanic should be able to do a clutch replacement on a FWD car .
Hi
Thanks for reply's appreciate its a difficult one to gauge regarding ability etc hence why I tried to add some context.
Regarding just jacking up the front for stability thats great to hear as will make it easier to make it safe to work underneath as it sounds like ill be there for a fair while..
Just gone through all the out the documents as it was tuned when I brought it, there isnt a clear documentation from the tuning company just a receipt for removal of a Hirsch tune in 2010 (likely 275BHP from their website.) Theres also a flash drive for the current tune which I've connected but can't access the Data on. It comes up as JWR flash drive, some research hasn't clarified which company this would be from.
Now stuck trying to verify the company as need to know the torque in order to gauge what clutch will be suitable.
cheers for all input.
Thanks for reply's appreciate its a difficult one to gauge regarding ability etc hence why I tried to add some context.
Regarding just jacking up the front for stability thats great to hear as will make it easier to make it safe to work underneath as it sounds like ill be there for a fair while..
Just gone through all the out the documents as it was tuned when I brought it, there isnt a clear documentation from the tuning company just a receipt for removal of a Hirsch tune in 2010 (likely 275BHP from their website.) Theres also a flash drive for the current tune which I've connected but can't access the Data on. It comes up as JWR flash drive, some research hasn't clarified which company this would be from.
Now stuck trying to verify the company as need to know the torque in order to gauge what clutch will be suitable.
cheers for all input.
Well obviously you need to jack the car up.
But it needs raised, and secured with safe axle stands or something similarly appropriate. You will likely need a decent height, so no pathetic little axle stands which are usually dangerous.
And you may or may not need to remove the entire suspension subframe, and may need the help of a transmission type jack, or at a minimum more pairs of hands. Gearboxes are annoying and heavy.
But it needs raised, and secured with safe axle stands or something similarly appropriate. You will likely need a decent height, so no pathetic little axle stands which are usually dangerous.
And you may or may not need to remove the entire suspension subframe, and may need the help of a transmission type jack, or at a minimum more pairs of hands. Gearboxes are annoying and heavy.
Yes aware that getting to the gearbox is going to be tricky and you need to remove the subframe to do so. Will need to work out how I can safely raise the car high enough and with additional safeguards so I can still get under the car to effectively work on it. The video I saw on youtube was using a portable lift kit which looks like the best but most expensive option.
te. Poorly built, small footprint, just crap really.charlie84rum said:
Hi
Thanks for reply's appreciate its a difficult one to gauge regarding ability etc hence why I tried to add some context.
Regarding just jacking up the front for stability thats great to hear as will make it easier to make it safe to work underneath as it sounds like ill be there for a fair while..
Just gone through all the out the documents as it was tuned when I brought it, there isnt a clear documentation from the tuning company just a receipt for removal of a Hirsch tune in 2010 (likely 275BHP from their website.) Theres also a flash drive for the current tune which I've connected but can't access the Data on. It comes up as JWR flash drive, some research hasn't clarified which company this would be from.
Now stuck trying to verify the company as need to know the torque in order to gauge what clutch will be suitable.
cheers for all input.
if it is around 320ps its probably Aura tuning as they were the go to of SAAB tuners for the V6, you also had Nordic tuning and some off the shelf stuff such as BSR.Thanks for reply's appreciate its a difficult one to gauge regarding ability etc hence why I tried to add some context.
Regarding just jacking up the front for stability thats great to hear as will make it easier to make it safe to work underneath as it sounds like ill be there for a fair while..
Just gone through all the out the documents as it was tuned when I brought it, there isnt a clear documentation from the tuning company just a receipt for removal of a Hirsch tune in 2010 (likely 275BHP from their website.) Theres also a flash drive for the current tune which I've connected but can't access the Data on. It comes up as JWR flash drive, some research hasn't clarified which company this would be from.
Now stuck trying to verify the company as need to know the torque in order to gauge what clutch will be suitable.
cheers for all input.
Hope its not had one of these man with a van type tuners take the Hirsch file off and then flash their own rubbish on it.
I dont see why you shouldn't. A clutch change is essentially a very long nut & bolt job. Most of it is getting to the gearbox, so typically airbox, drive shafts, starter, linkages, subframe, depending on the car, slave cylinder and so on. Lots & lots of undoing stuff but really within the bounds of any competent & methodical home mechanic. I would pay attention to people bringing up safe working. Spending time under a car is serious stuff & shouldn't be taken lightly. That and being prepared with equpment before you start. It's a long enough job anyway without having to scurry off & buy tools you should have at the outset.
I'm a reasonably competent DIYer and I have done clutches.
I think it's a job which I would pay someone to do nowadays. A good mechanic with all the gear including a ramp, or even one of those clutch specialist places, would be able to give you a high confidence estimate and depending on the car it'd come in well below a day's work. This is particularly the case where lowering the subframe is required. A geometry adjustment is likely to be required after putting the thing back together.
I think it's a job which I would pay someone to do nowadays. A good mechanic with all the gear including a ramp, or even one of those clutch specialist places, would be able to give you a high confidence estimate and depending on the car it'd come in well below a day's work. This is particularly the case where lowering the subframe is required. A geometry adjustment is likely to be required after putting the thing back together.
Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff