v40 coolant loss
Discussion
OK, before anyone states the obvious I have yet to have an in-depth look but can't see anything obvious on the surface and I am asking about something I have not worked on before as I am relatively new to diseasels.
Symptoms.
Coolant level at max, after around 100/150 miles I get a coolant low warning & sure enough it will be below min "pressurised". A quick top up of a few 100cc gets it back up to max & the warning goes.
This happens constantly.
Even after a few days there is always pressure in the expansion tank, and there are no visible signs of leaking coolant, so I don't think it is an actual leak.
There is no evidence of fluid cross-contamination (yes, I know there isn't always & will be getting a sniff test done) so I am hoping not HGF.
Am I being pushed towards an EGR cooler issue & if so is there any way to diagnose without dismantling?
Anything else I may have missed?
Symptoms.
Coolant level at max, after around 100/150 miles I get a coolant low warning & sure enough it will be below min "pressurised". A quick top up of a few 100cc gets it back up to max & the warning goes.
This happens constantly.
Even after a few days there is always pressure in the expansion tank, and there are no visible signs of leaking coolant, so I don't think it is an actual leak.
There is no evidence of fluid cross-contamination (yes, I know there isn't always & will be getting a sniff test done) so I am hoping not HGF.
Am I being pushed towards an EGR cooler issue & if so is there any way to diagnose without dismantling?
Anything else I may have missed?
What engine? There seems to be a problem with the D2 engines doing this , with all sorts of answers on the various fora from head gaskets to cracks in the block.
Since it's basically the same engine as a Ford 1.6 tdci and a Peugeot Citroen Hdi, which don't have the same issues, I think it's exhaust gases leaking into the water jacket of the egr cooler and the resultant extra pressure forcing water out of the reservoir overflow
Since it's basically the same engine as a Ford 1.6 tdci and a Peugeot Citroen Hdi, which don't have the same issues, I think it's exhaust gases leaking into the water jacket of the egr cooler and the resultant extra pressure forcing water out of the reservoir overflow
Edited by Desiderata on Friday 4th August 23:22
Desiderata said:
What engine? There seems to be a problem with the D2 engines doing this , with all sorts of answers on the various fora from head gaskets to cracks in the block.
Since it's basically the same engine as a first 1.6 tdci and a Peugeot Citroen Hdmi, which don't have the same issues, I think it's exhaust gases leaking into the water jacket of the egr cooker and the resultant extra pressure forcing water out of the reservoir overflow
Could be a good call, I will do some digging as it is the D2 engine.Since it's basically the same engine as a first 1.6 tdci and a Peugeot Citroen Hdmi, which don't have the same issues, I think it's exhaust gases leaking into the water jacket of the egr cooker and the resultant extra pressure forcing water out of the reservoir overflow
A quick look says unlikely, but I may be wrong.
As I was always being steered down that way anyway, after a positive sniff test (assumption) I may just remove the full EGR & give it a coat of looking at to see what I think or to see if it can be tested off the car, if that is what you meant,
.
As I was always being steered down that way anyway, after a positive sniff test (assumption) I may just remove the full EGR & give it a coat of looking at to see what I think or to see if it can be tested off the car, if that is what you meant,
.
stevieturbo said:
Yes. If there is a heater hose running to and from it, just link it out to bypass the cooler.
If it's bolted to stuff and coolant passing through that way, obviously more difficult.
Or try chucking in some Radweld, Bars leaks etc etc
Nothing as extreme as K Seal etc
As usual, good points, I will have a closer look at it in the next few days.If it's bolted to stuff and coolant passing through that way, obviously more difficult.
Or try chucking in some Radweld, Bars leaks etc etc
Nothing as extreme as K Seal etc
E-bmw said:
stevieturbo said:
Yes. If there is a heater hose running to and from it, just link it out to bypass the cooler.
If it's bolted to stuff and coolant passing through that way, obviously more difficult.
Or try chucking in some Radweld, Bars leaks etc etc
Nothing as extreme as K Seal etc
As usual, good points, I will have a closer look at it in the next few days.If it's bolted to stuff and coolant passing through that way, obviously more difficult.
Or try chucking in some Radweld, Bars leaks etc etc
Nothing as extreme as K Seal etc
OK, by way of update, unfortunately time has been my enemy recently.
The day before yesterday I used one of those dooberries that you put in the expansion tank neck with fluid to detect "products of combustion" and literally nothing bubbled through it, which obviously (to me) means there is none getting in.
I even sucked air from the expansion tank to bubble through as nothing naturally bubbled through.
There was obviously no change in colour, I left it running for many minutes & had it sat for minutes at "high idle" for a few period also.
Thus I am convinced it isn't anything major in the engine.
There are no signs of leaks, so I will get some radweld & see if that does anything.
The day before yesterday I used one of those dooberries that you put in the expansion tank neck with fluid to detect "products of combustion" and literally nothing bubbled through it, which obviously (to me) means there is none getting in.
I even sucked air from the expansion tank to bubble through as nothing naturally bubbled through.
There was obviously no change in colour, I left it running for many minutes & had it sat for minutes at "high idle" for a few period also.
Thus I am convinced it isn't anything major in the engine.
There are no signs of leaks, so I will get some radweld & see if that does anything.
E-bmw said:
OK, by way of update, unfortunately time has been my enemy recently.
The day before yesterday I used one of those dooberries that you put in the expansion tank neck with fluid to detect "products of combustion" and literally nothing bubbled through it, which obviously (to me) means there is none getting in.
I even sucked air from the expansion tank to bubble through as nothing naturally bubbled through.
There was obviously no change in colour, I left it running for many minutes & had it sat for minutes at "high idle" for a few period also.
Thus I am convinced it isn't anything major in the engine.
There are no signs of leaks, so I will get some radweld & see if that does anything.
I think those kits largely only work for cylinder to cooling system leaks.The day before yesterday I used one of those dooberries that you put in the expansion tank neck with fluid to detect "products of combustion" and literally nothing bubbled through it, which obviously (to me) means there is none getting in.
I even sucked air from the expansion tank to bubble through as nothing naturally bubbled through.
There was obviously no change in colour, I left it running for many minutes & had it sat for minutes at "high idle" for a few period also.
Thus I am convinced it isn't anything major in the engine.
There are no signs of leaks, so I will get some radweld & see if that does anything.
Not sure there would be enough exhaust gas entering the system from an EGR, to change colour, as most of the pressure is from the cooling system, going into the exhaust, rather than visa versa
Have you tried pressurising the system and leaving it for a few hours ? In theory it should hold easily with no drop.
Although it just proves you have a leak, which you seem to already know.
I've small stuff like Bars Leaks, Radweld, Wurth etc before. I've never used any of the "big" stuff like K Seal...it sounds like desperation when it's at that stage.
Although if you could clamp hoses ether side of the EGR, or remove it entirely and do the same pressure test drop, it would help prove or eliminate that.
eg, likes of this would be very easy to either bypass or clamp off.
https://www.proxyparts.com/car-parts-stock/informa...
https://www.proxyparts.com/car-parts-stock/informa...
stevieturbo said:
E-bmw said:
OK, by way of update, unfortunately time has been my enemy recently.
The day before yesterday I used one of those dooberries that you put in the expansion tank neck with fluid to detect "products of combustion" and literally nothing bubbled through it, which obviously (to me) means there is none getting in.
I even sucked air from the expansion tank to bubble through as nothing naturally bubbled through.
There was obviously no change in colour, I left it running for many minutes & had it sat for minutes at "high idle" for a few period also.
Thus I am convinced it isn't anything major in the engine.
There are no signs of leaks, so I will get some radweld & see if that does anything.
I think those kits largely only work for cylinder to cooling system leaks.The day before yesterday I used one of those dooberries that you put in the expansion tank neck with fluid to detect "products of combustion" and literally nothing bubbled through it, which obviously (to me) means there is none getting in.
I even sucked air from the expansion tank to bubble through as nothing naturally bubbled through.
There was obviously no change in colour, I left it running for many minutes & had it sat for minutes at "high idle" for a few period also.
Thus I am convinced it isn't anything major in the engine.
There are no signs of leaks, so I will get some radweld & see if that does anything.
Not sure there would be enough exhaust gas entering the system from an EGR, to change colour, as most of the pressure is from the cooling system, going into the exhaust, rather than visa versa
Have you tried pressurising the system and leaving it for a few hours ? In theory it should hold easily with no drop.
Although it just proves you have a leak, which you seem to already know.
I've small stuff like Bars Leaks, Radweld, Wurth etc before. I've never used any of the "big" stuff like K Seal...it sounds like desperation when it's at that stage.
Although if you could clamp hoses ether side of the EGR, or remove it entirely and do the same pressure test drop, it would help prove or eliminate that.
Weirdly as I said in the OP the expansion tank will hold pressure for several days with no noticeable loss.
Unfortunately my EGR isn't as easy to bypass, so I will see what happens with Radweld.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373731386795?fits=Car+M...
The inlet/outlet are the flange & the pipe stub.
Latest update.
I got hold of some radweld before my latest journey from York to Norwich (which normally results in a low level warning on the way) and aside of the warning seemingly occurring later in the journey it still happened so it looks like my next course of action could well be a new EGR cooler.
I got hold of some radweld before my latest journey from York to Norwich (which normally results in a low level warning on the way) and aside of the warning seemingly occurring later in the journey it still happened so it looks like my next course of action could well be a new EGR cooler.
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