Discussion
trickywoo said:
The real world is not as simplistic as that, and none of them were cheap China plugs.There are more factors at play in modern cars, with modern service intervals, and modern forced induction engines.
It seems that there are a lot of NGK fakes about -
https://www.blingstrom.com/modmondays-fxt-1/2020/1...
Try & buy from a reliable supplier.
https://www.blingstrom.com/modmondays-fxt-1/2020/1...
Try & buy from a reliable supplier.
Skyedriver said:
Two things I've been told about iridium plugs - if you "flood" the engine they're knackered and you'll struggle to get them working again and don't try and clean them with a wire brush.
I dumped 6 and replaced with non-iridium.
If you're referring to your Gilbern, Tony, that engine was not designed to run on them anyway, stick to the manufacturer's recommended plugs. I dumped 6 and replaced with non-iridium.
They are really nothing more than a construct to allow manufacturers to site plugs in unreachable locations, with the (false) assurance that they will last 50/60/100,000 miles. Truth is, if you leave them in that long, you'll never get them out. We always take them out to inspect, clean, copaslip and refit anually, just like any other plug... but considerably less accessible in most cases
Skyedriver said:
Two things I've been told about iridium plugs - if you "flood" the engine they're knackered and you'll struggle to get them working again and don't try and clean them with a wire brush.
I dumped 6 and replaced with non-iridium.
Same applies to any plug really.I dumped 6 and replaced with non-iridium.
Albeit you can try and clean a regular cheapy plug without fear of damaging it. But petrol flooding can wreck them all. It's just cheaper to replace with regular copper plugs if it happens.
For about 90% of cars, especially low mileage, low power etc etc....regular copper are perfectly fine. And even for the other 10%, they're usually fine too.
trickywoo said:
TwinKam said:
copaslip and refit anually, just like any other plug:
NGK specifically say not to do that.(It's because grease affects the torque required to tighten, and an idiot with numb hands and six thumbs might then overtighten them...)
TwinKam said:
They don't have to get them out, do they! I've been doing exactly that professionally for 43 years..
Well NGK have over 80 years of automotive experience and I think they wouldn't have the reputation they have if they haven't done some long term analysis around the effects of corrosion etc.They have gone out of their way to tell people not to apply anti seize to plugs. They could just as easily say nothing, its not their problem after all.
trickywoo said:
Well NGK have over 80 years of automotive experience and I think they wouldn't have the reputation they have if they haven't done some long term analysis around the effects of corrosion etc.
They have gone out of their way to tell people not to apply anti seize to plugs. They could just as easily say nothing, its not their problem after all.
I've been putting it on for 30+ years.....I think I'll stick to what is working perfectly.They have gone out of their way to tell people not to apply anti seize to plugs. They could just as easily say nothing, its not their problem after all.
stevieturbo said:
trickywoo said:
Well NGK have over 80 years of automotive experience and I think they wouldn't have the reputation they have if they haven't done some long term analysis around the effects of corrosion etc.
They have gone out of their way to tell people not to apply anti seize to plugs. They could just as easily say nothing, its not their problem after all.
I've been putting it on for 30+ years.....I think I'll stick to what is working perfectly.They have gone out of their way to tell people not to apply anti seize to plugs. They could just as easily say nothing, its not their problem after all.
TwinKam said:
If you're referring to your Gilbern, Tony, that engine was not designed to run on them anyway, stick to the manufacturer's recommended plugs.
They are really nothing more than a construct to allow manufacturers to site plugs in unreachable locations, with the (false) assurance that they will last 50/60/100,000 miles. Truth is, if you leave them in that long, you'll never get them out. We always take them out to inspect, clean, copaslip and refit anually, just like any other plug... but considerably less accessible in most cases
They were in when I bought it, replaced with standard NGK.They are really nothing more than a construct to allow manufacturers to site plugs in unreachable locations, with the (false) assurance that they will last 50/60/100,000 miles. Truth is, if you leave them in that long, you'll never get them out. We always take them out to inspect, clean, copaslip and refit anually, just like any other plug... but considerably less accessible in most cases
quote=stevieturbo]
And 43 years a user myself ... I think I'll stick to what is working perfectly for me too. trickywoo said:
Well NGK have over 80 years of automotive experience and I think they wouldn't have the reputation they have if they haven't done some long term analysis around the effects of corrosion etc.
They have gone out of their way to tell people not to apply anti seize to plugs. They could just as easily say nothing, its not their problem after all.
I've been putting it on for 30+ years.....I think I'll stick to what is working perfectly.They have gone out of their way to tell people not to apply anti seize to plugs. They could just as easily say nothing, its not their problem after all.
And I'll wager that all the other conscientious mechs out there (the ones that habitually clean and grease any thead they're refitting) do too.
NGK probably don't get to see cars in the mal-maintained abused real-world states that stevie & I & others in the trade do... they live in a sterile lab and are merely covering their arses against a slather-it-on and doesn't-know-his-own-strength neanderthal.
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