Alterator - clocking the tensioner lug
Discussion
Hi,
I bought a higer-output alternator (80 Amp) to put on the Rover V8 in place of the 43 Amp ACR type. In the past I've "clocked" the ACR type when, as supplied, the tensioner lug is on the wrong side. I can't figure out how to do this on the new Lucas alternator type A133/80 and A127/65 and whether it is feasible.
I removed the back cover and the longotudinal bolts securing the front cover to the rear cover but stopped when it needed more force than I was willing to apply to a new part without being certain I wouldn't break it.
Can it be done?
Do I need to use a bit more force?
I bought a higer-output alternator (80 Amp) to put on the Rover V8 in place of the 43 Amp ACR type. In the past I've "clocked" the ACR type when, as supplied, the tensioner lug is on the wrong side. I can't figure out how to do this on the new Lucas alternator type A133/80 and A127/65 and whether it is feasible.
I removed the back cover and the longotudinal bolts securing the front cover to the rear cover but stopped when it needed more force than I was willing to apply to a new part without being certain I wouldn't break it.
Can it be done?
Do I need to use a bit more force?
I haven't done what you're trying to do, but that diagram appears to show alignment lugs between the different parts of the housing. If so, you may need to retract the brushes and separate the parts of the housing axially to enable them to be rotated relative to each other. Whether they support the alternative orientation you need is another matter, but it seems a reasonable thing to hope for.
Polly Grigora said:
That's what I thought but your photo shows an ACR type, mine has a ventilated case.I've removed the pulley and the longitudinal studs and got a 3mm gap between the case halves but the stator is very secure in the front case preventing me from rotating that half.
100SRV said:
Polly Grigora said:
That's what I thought but your photo shows an ACR type, mine has a ventilated case.I've removed the pulley and the longitudinal studs and got a 3mm gap between the case halves but the stator is very secure in the front case preventing me from rotating that half.
I understand the problem you are having as have had the very same problem many times, the stator is sometimes very tight into the drive end shield but it will split from it, 2 medium sized flat bladed screwdrivers used as levers at two points at the same time will free it off as long as you are getting the ends of the screwdrivers onto the front face of the stator at an angle and levering against the drive end shield strong through-bolt points
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