1999 Audi 1.9TDi - boost leak
Discussion
How do you locate a boost leak?
I can hear it around 2k window open and it's loosing power around there and a bit of smoke.
I was under it earlier but nothing obvious.all the joins I can get too from above were tight and lookclean.,all of the hoses look quite newish the way only tatty bit was the metal boost pipe that goes behind the bumper, it has lots of things attached so I didn't attempt to remove it.
So I disconnected the hose after the plastic bit, I tried to tape a large manual cycle pump inside the pipe and taped the end up, no luck as I can't pump fast enough, am I on the right track?
If I could get a compressor on the job and do the same thing would that work?
I can hear it around 2k window open and it's loosing power around there and a bit of smoke.
I was under it earlier but nothing obvious.all the joins I can get too from above were tight and lookclean.,all of the hoses look quite newish the way only tatty bit was the metal boost pipe that goes behind the bumper, it has lots of things attached so I didn't attempt to remove it.
So I disconnected the hose after the plastic bit, I tried to tape a large manual cycle pump inside the pipe and taped the end up, no luck as I can't pump fast enough, am I on the right track?
If I could get a compressor on the job and do the same thing would that work?
ssray said:
GreenV8S said:
A smoke generator might show you where the leak is - or it might not.
Thanks lolThe hoses look new, it had a turbo not long before I got it, thinking it may be the bit bolted to the chassis behind the bumper
So they had a problem, got it "sorted out", or so they say!
It sounds like you MAY have bought somebody else's problem that they couldn't get sorted out properly.
To answer your original question, take it somewhere to have a smoke test done as above unless you can find something obvious yourself, which I am guessing will be unlikely.
Basically, you will likely find the issue is a hose clamp/pipe/sensor has not been put back properly & the best way is either a smoke test or a full dismantle & fastidious rebuild of the full job that was done.
The metal boost pipe/front engine support bar is one of the common leak points. They rust and crack around the mounts. Easy to repair but you do need to remove it to check.
A more common issue on that engine is the top rubber boost pipe, the short one that connects to the inlet manifold. They often crack on the underside making spotting the split hard.
A more common issue on that engine is the top rubber boost pipe, the short one that connects to the inlet manifold. They often crack on the underside making spotting the split hard.
wildoliver said:
The metal boost pipe/front engine support bar is one of the common leak points. They rust and crack around the mounts. Easy to repair but you do need to remove it to check.
A more common issue on that engine is the top rubber boost pipe, the short one that connects to the inlet manifold. They often crack on the underside making spotting the split hard.
Thanks, I spent yesterday sorting a boost leak on the Mrs ford Kuga, may be allowed to look at mine tomorrow A more common issue on that engine is the top rubber boost pipe, the short one that connects to the inlet manifold. They often crack on the underside making spotting the split hard.
Get youself a cheap DJ smoke machine used one for years before buying a bespoke/automotive machine purely for the adaptors 
but most of the time a DJ machine and latex glove with a finger off makes a great manifold/junction point and gets the job done never failed to find a leak even cracks/fractures near welds even no matter how small and nearly invisible to a quick eye inspection 
but most of the time a DJ machine and latex glove with a finger off makes a great manifold/junction point and gets the job done never failed to find a leak even cracks/fractures near welds even no matter how small and nearly invisible to a quick eye inspection Zener said:
Get youself a cheap DJ smoke machine used one for years before buying a bespoke/automotive machine purely for the adaptors but most of the time a DJ machine and latex glove with a finger off makes a great manifold/junction point and gets the job done never failed to find a leak even cracks/fractures near welds even no matter how small and nearly invisible to a quick eye inspection
Thanks, I did make one but couldn't get enough smoke generated ,was going to use a small compressor but will look at this now but most of the time a DJ machine and latex glove with a finger off makes a great manifold/junction point and gets the job done never failed to find a leak even cracks/fractures near welds even no matter how small and nearly invisible to a quick eye inspection Thank you
In-between epic rain showers today, I thought I'd look at the top hoses and remove them to inspect them, as per the pic is the after I've been at it, the previous owner had made a double hose from the turbo, when I took them apart the inner hose was not in a good way, so I've used silicon (bathroom sealant) in-between the two hoses and replaced it
As its Sunday afternoon nowhere near me is open, I will order a new bit tomorrow, test drive in a bit
Found and fixed(bodged) I found a local place that would do a smoke test (£25) but couldn't fit me in till Friday, so I stuck it on the ramps and removed the lower intercooler hoses, the 90 degree one was ok but the longer one that's quite convoluted had a split near the top, cleaned it with break cleaner, used super glue on and in the split, added a large cycle puncture patch the gaffer tape over the top
I also made some plates to remove the egr valve
It runs properly now, the mpg should be up over 50mpg again now.
New hose ordered, the bodge only needs to last till Thursday
I also made some plates to remove the egr valve
It runs properly now, the mpg should be up over 50mpg again now.
New hose ordered, the bodge only needs to last till Thursday
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