Hyundai 1.2L petrol driveability
Discussion
Recently picked up a 120,000 mile, 2010, 1.2L petrol for our 17yr old learner (a gift horse from a family member).
Has received a fair amount of maintenance over the years, mostly all documented, so had high hopes that it would be fit for purpose.
Not proving that great to drive though…
Steering is pretty lifeless (not the end of the world). Had a new rack a few years ago but very recent MOT mentioned play at inner joints.
More importantly, the hydraulic clutch is quite imprecise with very little feedback/feeling through the pedal when it engages (I hesitate to use the word bite as it’s almost imperceptible). I believe it had a new clutch and flywheel 4 yrs ago and the fluid was changed recently.
Cable operated throttle. Pedal action seems to be ok, but have been wondering if a new cable could be worth considering?
I have tried manually revving it (using my hand to operated the throttle assembly) and what I’ve noticed is that the revs seem to take longer than I would have expected to drop back down - even though the throttle/butterfly springs back smartly enough.
Could just be the flywheel effect, but the combination of a throttle that is proving hard to modulate with a fairly imprecise clutch means that 17yr old (and wife!) are not impressed.
Is there anything age-related that would be worth checking/replacing to instill a new lease of life - or do they all do that (sir)?
Has received a fair amount of maintenance over the years, mostly all documented, so had high hopes that it would be fit for purpose.
Not proving that great to drive though…
Steering is pretty lifeless (not the end of the world). Had a new rack a few years ago but very recent MOT mentioned play at inner joints.
More importantly, the hydraulic clutch is quite imprecise with very little feedback/feeling through the pedal when it engages (I hesitate to use the word bite as it’s almost imperceptible). I believe it had a new clutch and flywheel 4 yrs ago and the fluid was changed recently.
Cable operated throttle. Pedal action seems to be ok, but have been wondering if a new cable could be worth considering?
I have tried manually revving it (using my hand to operated the throttle assembly) and what I’ve noticed is that the revs seem to take longer than I would have expected to drop back down - even though the throttle/butterfly springs back smartly enough.
Could just be the flywheel effect, but the combination of a throttle that is proving hard to modulate with a fairly imprecise clutch means that 17yr old (and wife!) are not impressed.
Is there anything age-related that would be worth checking/replacing to instill a new lease of life - or do they all do that (sir)?
Edited by Mogul on Sunday 4th September 22:41
The engine response will, I think, be pretty typical.
Leave the throttle cable alone if you thinks it’s ok.
You give the age of the clutch, but not the miles. And, of course, you don’t know 100% how the clutch has been used and abused. I suspect it needs replacing, but then I’ve never driven one of these.
Leave the throttle cable alone if you thinks it’s ok.
You give the age of the clutch, but not the miles. And, of course, you don’t know 100% how the clutch has been used and abused. I suspect it needs replacing, but then I’ve never driven one of these.
If it's the i10, then the clutch pedal and steering are very light...I think it's designed specifically for OAPs (my mum and ex-boss both have one 
).
It's great around town, and up to about 60-70mph...then everything slows down. It's fine at maintaining its speed up hills, but don't try pulling out and accelerating hard to overtake quickly on a DC or motorway, as it won't...but that's not what it's built for.
).It's great around town, and up to about 60-70mph...then everything slows down. It's fine at maintaining its speed up hills, but don't try pulling out and accelerating hard to overtake quickly on a DC or motorway, as it won't...but that's not what it's built for.
Edited by mmm-five on Monday 5th September 11:00
It’s an i20.
Clutch and/or steering weight not causing any concerns.
It does hit a bit of a wall at 60mph, but no bad thing.
It’s just the lack of ‘bite’ when the clutch engages makes modulating the revs a bit tricky as it appears quite easy to over-rev it knowing that you will need some revs, but if the clutch is slow to engage, your into full-on OAP shenanigans.
Clutch has 5yrs, 50-60k miles on it.
Do master cylinders work as expected until they fail or do they cause trouble?
The Fiat Panda Pop that we used to run was much more fun to use (and equally gutless).
Clutch and/or steering weight not causing any concerns.
It does hit a bit of a wall at 60mph, but no bad thing.
It’s just the lack of ‘bite’ when the clutch engages makes modulating the revs a bit tricky as it appears quite easy to over-rev it knowing that you will need some revs, but if the clutch is slow to engage, your into full-on OAP shenanigans.
Clutch has 5yrs, 50-60k miles on it.
Do master cylinders work as expected until they fail or do they cause trouble?
The Fiat Panda Pop that we used to run was much more fun to use (and equally gutless).
Edited by Mogul on Tuesday 6th September 07:35
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