Leaking Weber twin choke carb

[OldSkoolRS]

I have a problem with a leak from the petrol line into my carburetor on my 1979 RS2000. I don't know if this pipe can be removed/swapped or whether it is somehow 'pressed' into the carb body, so may not be replaceable?

This picture shows a similar carb to mine and I've marked it with a red arrow to highlight the bit that is leaking on mine.



While I can buy a new replacement, I have a lot of other parts to buy to get this car back on the road, so if I can replace this 'stub' and fix the leak, then I can just use a carb kit and refurbish the carb.

I have previously replaced the pipe and jubilee clip that connects to this 'stub' and it definitely leaks from the body end rather than where the pipe fits around the tip.

[E-bmw]

Unless you can see a thread it is likely to be push fitted.

The good thing is that fuel pressure to a carb. is pretty low so there isn't much pressure behind it.

Perhaps a good clean/degrease & a finger of something like "petro-patch" might work.

[OldSkoolRS]

Thanks; kind of what I thought regarding the lack of obvious thread. Not sure I'll be able to plug it with something and it's a bit risky if it then starts to leak a little while after, especially if I spend the next 3-4 months getting it back on the road only to set fire to it on the first drive.

[Zener]

Tap that and fit a barbed fitting , that part as been the cause of many a fire as the carb warms up the brass fitting falls out firing fuel all over the dizzy etc you can guess the rest this equates to around 9mm so you should have to open that port out little to tap https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232895679481?hash=item3...

[OldSkoolRS]

Zener said:

Tap that and fit a barbed fitting , that part as been the cause of many a fire as the carb warms up the brass fitting falls out firing fuel all over the dizzy etc you can guess the rest this equates to around 9mm so you should have to open that port out little to tap https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232895679481?hash=item3...

That is an excellent suggestion; I have plenty of taps, so just need to order the one from your link. Then I can just buy a carb repair kit so I can strip it and give it a good clean as it's been laid up for 20+ years and I haven't run it for at least 8 years.

[paintman]

The Weber carb in Scimitars was well known for the fuel pump into carb pipe popping out (V6 Essex engine) & was a regular 'Watch out for' in the RSSOC magazine Slice.

Petrol then pumped onto the top of the engine.

Checked mine after I bought it & it pulled out with just light finger pressure.

Cure in Slice was to drill a small hole from the top of the body of the carb into the pipe then - after cleaning up - use sealant on the outside of the pipe & on the threads of a self tapping screw. Push the pipe back in & screw the self tapper through the body & into the pipe.
Worked for me.

Edited by paintman on Monday 16th May 18:40

[OldSkoolRS]

Thanks Paintman. I gather the V6 used a similar carb; 38DGAS (or something like) and some RS2000 owners fitted them as an upgrade to the 28/36 (at least I think that's what mine has).

I'm going to take the plugs out and see if I can turn the engine over by hand, if so I might try one of the ideas above to fix the leak and see if I can get it running again. I'm going to partly strip the engine down anyway, if only to clean and paint the 'bay and the engine itself up a bit, but would be good to hear it run again.

[Zener]

OldschoolRS you should have a 32/36 DGAV fitted and apart from the V6 38 DGAS's non-sequential throttles very similar carbs

Edited by Zener on Monday 16th May 21:43

[gazza285]

Good enough an excuse to fit twin 45s.

[OldSkoolRS]

gazza285 said:

Good enough an excuse to fit twin 45s.

True, though that'll only set the anoraks off more when I do advertise it. Plus it'll lead to other upgrades and then it'll never get back on the road this autumn.

[paintman]

OldSkoolRS said:

Thanks Paintman. I gather the V6 used a similar carb; 38DGAS (or something like) and some RS2000 owners fitted them as an upgrade to the 28/36 (at least I think that's what mine has).

I'm going to take the plugs out and see if I can turn the engine over by hand, if so I might try one of the ideas above to fix the leak and see if I can get it running again. I'm going to partly strip the engine down anyway, if only to clean and paint the 'bay and the engine itself up a bit, but would be good to hear it run again.

40DFAV on mine, which was a 1970 SE5.

I think the 38DGAS was used on later ones.
Quick look in RSSOC confirms & suggests the 38DGAS was a worthwhile replacement for the 40 if you were looking to replace the carb.

Edited by paintman on Thursday 19th May 11:55

[Zener]

paintman said:

OldSkoolRS said:

Thanks Paintman. I gather the V6 used a similar carb; 38DGAS (or something like) and some RS2000 owners fitted them as an upgrade to the 28/36 (at least I think that's what mine has).

I'm going to take the plugs out and see if I can turn the engine over by hand, if so I might try one of the ideas above to fix the leak and see if I can get it running again. I'm going to partly strip the engine down anyway, if only to clean and paint the 'bay and the engine itself up a bit, but would be good to hear it run again.

40DFAV on mine, which was a 1970 SE5.

I think the 38DGAS was used on later ones.
Quick look in RSSOC confirms & suggests the 38DGAS was a worthwhile replacement for the 40 if you were looking to replace the carb.

Edited by paintman on Thursday 19th May 11:55

That 40 DFAV was not a stock fit on the Essex post 71 but used on earlier varient with oval intake port heads 71 on had 38DGAS and better D shaped intake ports

[oakdale]

Remove the pipe and slightly ovalize the bit that fits into the carb with a vice (just enough to make it a tight tap in fit), rough it a bit with some emery then coat it with Araldite and tap it in with a small hammer.

Sounds nasty I know but it's worked long term and reliably for me on a few occasions.

[Zener]

oakdale said:

Remove the pipe and slightly ovalize the bit that fits into the carb with a vice (just enough to make it a tight tap in fit), rough it a bit with some emery then coat it with Araldite and tap it in with a small hammer.

Sounds nasty I know but it's worked long term and reliably for me on a few occasions.

Back in the day this is what we use to do knurl the brass and use permanent locking (Loctite) style compound , not sure I would be happy doing things this way considering the values of the cars these motors are fitted in nowadays however