Is it possible for a cambelt to go like this?
Discussion
I'd appreciate some insight from those more knowledgeable than me, basically from the pics is it possible for a belt to go like that? it looks more like it's been cut. I've had 2 belts go in the past and both were under load and they thrayed, melted and had bits of them everywhere.
I'm just wondering if it's worthwhile putting a new belt on there and trying it or do I just split and replace the heads (check for damage to the valves). The second is probably too much for me to do.
It's just it's possible it could of been cut, I can see why it would be as the intention was always to do the belt but I can't enquire about it now sadly but I really want to get this thing running again after 10 years it's got a tonne of sentimental to it.
I'm just wondering if it's worthwhile putting a new belt on there and trying it or do I just split and replace the heads (check for damage to the valves). The second is probably too much for me to do.
It's just it's possible it could of been cut, I can see why it would be as the intention was always to do the belt but I can't enquire about it now sadly but I really want to get this thing running again after 10 years it's got a tonne of sentimental to it.
Just wondering if ex mechanics have seen such a clean cut/snap, in my experience & google images shows more damage to the belt. I could change the belt but beyond that I'd have to look at getting help with it I think.
Ain't much background to say, I'm kinda in the dark myself being that it was owned by a family member that passed.
Ain't much background to say, I'm kinda in the dark myself being that it was owned by a family member that passed.
If it snapped whilst running and its an interference design then the damage is already done.
I'd be inclined to buy just a cheapo new belt (initially), fit it and turn the engine over gently by hand, you should be able to feel each cylinder compress whilst doing this, if nothing appears to be stopping rotation try and start it.
If it runs ok, then get a proper belt kit plus new coolant oils etc.
If it doesn't run and compression testing points to lack of same, well it's your choice then of what to do.
I'd be inclined to buy just a cheapo new belt (initially), fit it and turn the engine over gently by hand, you should be able to feel each cylinder compress whilst doing this, if nothing appears to be stopping rotation try and start it.
If it runs ok, then get a proper belt kit plus new coolant oils etc.
If it doesn't run and compression testing points to lack of same, well it's your choice then of what to do.
Smint said:
If it snapped whilst running and its an interference design then the damage is already done.
I'd be inclined to buy just a cheapo new belt (initially), fit it and turn the engine over gently by hand, you should be able to feel each cylinder compress whilst doing this, if nothing appears to be stopping rotation try and start it.
If it runs ok, then get a proper belt kit plus new coolant oils etc.
If it doesn't run and compression testing points to lack of same, well it's your choice then of what to do.
Sounds like a plan, I'll do that.I'd be inclined to buy just a cheapo new belt (initially), fit it and turn the engine over gently by hand, you should be able to feel each cylinder compress whilst doing this, if nothing appears to be stopping rotation try and start it.
If it runs ok, then get a proper belt kit plus new coolant oils etc.
If it doesn't run and compression testing points to lack of same, well it's your choice then of what to do.
Don't buy a belt just yet.
Take the plugs out and inspect pistons for valve contact first. Then turn the engine until the pistons are halfway down the bore. Turn each cam carefully and check all the valve clearances when the valves are fully shut. If any of the valve clearances are massive then it's had V to P contact.
Take the plugs out and inspect pistons for valve contact first. Then turn the engine until the pistons are halfway down the bore. Turn each cam carefully and check all the valve clearances when the valves are fully shut. If any of the valve clearances are massive then it's had V to P contact.
Belle427 said:
Looks like a snap to me, I don’t think it looks clean enough for a cut.
When I zoomed in, most of the cut looked clean to me. The frayed edges I put down to a partial depth cut at the start of the cut and the belt failing under tension before the cut was complete. I suppose it's possible it's perished and failed at a crack, but the rest of the belt looked OK to me.GreenV8S said:
Belle427 said:
Looks like a snap to me, I don’t think it looks clean enough for a cut.
When I zoomed in, most of the cut looked clean to me. The frayed edges I put down to a partial depth cut at the start of the cut and the belt failing under tension before the cut was complete. I suppose it's possible it's perished and failed at a crack, but the rest of the belt looked OK to me.Looks like a snap I would say, what car is it and whats the story?
Inferring from your post its been sat for a while and you've taken it on?
As others said I'd put a kit on it now and turn it over slow by hand and see what things lie like now.... seperating the head at this point tho its a pain isn't beyond your skill if you can do a cam belt IMO
Inferring from your post its been sat for a while and you've taken it on?
As others said I'd put a kit on it now and turn it over slow by hand and see what things lie like now.... seperating the head at this point tho its a pain isn't beyond your skill if you can do a cam belt IMO
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