2003 XC90 D5 Starts then stalls.
Discussion
Hi All,
Our old family car, a 2003 XC90 D5 with 165k miles started to play up when I used it for the first time after it was stood for months due to ill health.
It ran ok for a few miles, then on my way back it stalled in traffic at the lights, and I managed to get it home by keeping the revs high. I just managed to get it home and then it died completely and then refused to start.
A couple of weeks ago I changed the fuel filter and it started, but then died unless I kept my foot on the throttle - it would not idle. Eventually after multiple tried using my other car to jump start it, it would not even start. I then caught Covid.
Today, I went out after leaving it charging for over a week - scanned it before attempting to start, no codes. Then IT STARTED FIRST TIME and idled perfectly for about a minute then it cut out.
Then it started ok again and idled for quite a while and I revved it occasionally.
I turned it off and then it started but cut out straight away or briefly idled very roughly. The after a few cranks it is back to not starting again.
I read some codes- Current Fault: P0102, P0112, P0192 and pending fault P0157.
Could it be a related to knackered battery? It was showing 12.7V and half empty after about 5 failed short cranks.
Or could it be injectors - it looks like there are small pools of wet around a couple of the injectors.
I am a (very) amateur mechanic, but I would greatly appreciate some advice to get it going again, as I cannot afford to spend much money on it.
Our old family car, a 2003 XC90 D5 with 165k miles started to play up when I used it for the first time after it was stood for months due to ill health.
It ran ok for a few miles, then on my way back it stalled in traffic at the lights, and I managed to get it home by keeping the revs high. I just managed to get it home and then it died completely and then refused to start.
A couple of weeks ago I changed the fuel filter and it started, but then died unless I kept my foot on the throttle - it would not idle. Eventually after multiple tried using my other car to jump start it, it would not even start. I then caught Covid.
Today, I went out after leaving it charging for over a week - scanned it before attempting to start, no codes. Then IT STARTED FIRST TIME and idled perfectly for about a minute then it cut out.
Then it started ok again and idled for quite a while and I revved it occasionally.
I turned it off and then it started but cut out straight away or briefly idled very roughly. The after a few cranks it is back to not starting again.
I read some codes- Current Fault: P0102, P0112, P0192 and pending fault P0157.
Could it be a related to knackered battery? It was showing 12.7V and half empty after about 5 failed short cranks.
Or could it be injectors - it looks like there are small pools of wet around a couple of the injectors.
I am a (very) amateur mechanic, but I would greatly appreciate some advice to get it going again, as I cannot afford to spend much money on it.
Hi mate. Hope you have recovered well
I had same and more codes when my battery was loosing charge. After charging it, these codes never came back.
I'dd suggest you jump start using another car and see if the idling continues? If it does then I'd suspect the alternator. If the alternator is supplying power, then after starting, a car could continue running with a disconnected the battery.
Like me, you'll have to check one-by one, at a time and trace the issue
I had same and more codes when my battery was loosing charge. After charging it, these codes never came back.
I'dd suggest you jump start using another car and see if the idling continues? If it does then I'd suspect the alternator. If the alternator is supplying power, then after starting, a car could continue running with a disconnected the battery.
Like me, you'll have to check one-by one, at a time and trace the issue
Finally managed to get back to having another look, and I am now back to where I was before.
On just the battery it will crank but not start.
With the battery booster attached, it starts very briefly then dies instantly - I got code - Pending fault P0192 - Powertrain, Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input, which I have seen before.
I was hoping for it to start again like last time and then I could check to see if the alternator was charging the battery.
It started chucking it down, if it stops before dark I will jump it from my Honda to see if that helps.
On just the battery it will crank but not start.
With the battery booster attached, it starts very briefly then dies instantly - I got code - Pending fault P0192 - Powertrain, Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input, which I have seen before.
I was hoping for it to start again like last time and then I could check to see if the alternator was charging the battery.
It started chucking it down, if it stops before dark I will jump it from my Honda to see if that helps.
I'm not a mechanic but from things what I know and have done in the past and also from my current issue that I'm having....why don't you undo the pipe that goes to common rail from high pressure pump, then crank to see if CR is getting any fuel? If it does then move to next step and check if injectors are getting fuel from CR.
If the fuel system is working as it should, then I'd check battery power supply by doing a jump starting using your other car
If the fuel system is working as it should, then I'd check battery power supply by doing a jump starting using your other car
Hello from the V8 thread... I had that engine in a V70 for about 10 years and know it quite well.
I'd suggest, in this order:
- Decent battery
- Read codes with VIDA software, or a reader that can show the proper Volvo codes rather than generic codes, eg something like the iCarSoft i906
- Change the fuel pressure control valve on the right end of the head, by the HP diesel pump: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402678730695
If you're anywhere near Luton, Beds, I may be able to help reading the codes.
At this point I would NOT suspect an injector.
I'd suggest, in this order:
- Decent battery
- Read codes with VIDA software, or a reader that can show the proper Volvo codes rather than generic codes, eg something like the iCarSoft i906
- Change the fuel pressure control valve on the right end of the head, by the HP diesel pump: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402678730695
If you're anywhere near Luton, Beds, I may be able to help reading the codes.
At this point I would NOT suspect an injector.
aland75 said:
Hello from the V8 thread... I had that engine in a V70 for about 10 years and know it quite well.
I'd suggest, in this order:
- Decent battery
- Read codes with VIDA software, or a reader that can show the proper Volvo codes rather than generic codes, eg something like the iCarSoft i906
- Change the fuel pressure control valve on the right end of the head, by the HP diesel pump: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402678730695
If you're anywhere near Luton, Beds, I may be able to help reading the codes.
At this point I would NOT suspect an injector.
Thanks - I'm near Manchester so I bit far away. I have been considering a code scanner for a while, but as I have so many old sheddy cars I need to get one that does more than just Volvo. I have sent an email to the official UK icarsoft supplier to check that their CR PRO model does the same detail for Volvo as the dedicated Volvo scanner.I'd suggest, in this order:
- Decent battery
- Read codes with VIDA software, or a reader that can show the proper Volvo codes rather than generic codes, eg something like the iCarSoft i906
- Change the fuel pressure control valve on the right end of the head, by the HP diesel pump: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402678730695
If you're anywhere near Luton, Beds, I may be able to help reading the codes.
At this point I would NOT suspect an injector.
The fuel pressure control doesn't look too expensive a try. I would love to get it running rather than scrapping it, but I really don't want to throw much more money at it.
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