Peugeot 1.9 XUD Diesel Engine is tight and gets tighter

[Penelope Stopit]

Having nearly finished a part rebuild of this engine and fitted a new timing belt today, I know that the camshaft and diesel pump turn freely
When I first bought this engine nearly 3 months ago I noticed how it tightened and loosened off when turning it with a socket on a breaker bar and remarked "this engine has good compression"

I haven't removed the cylinderhead

I planned 2 other jobs today to be as sure as possible that all was well with the engine before fitting it, 1 job was to check for flywheel run-out and the other was to remove the heater plugs and turn the engine with a torque wrench to see what effort was needed when there was no compression

Through Google I noticed in a few topics that people quote anything from 20 to 30 NM as being ok, I don't know if these figures are correct

The nightmare begins, I poured oil down the bores through the heater plug holes because the engine did feel tight with the breaker bar without there being compression, the engine felt easier to turn after oiling

Next it was out with the torque wrench and take some readings of how many Newton Meters it took to turn the engine......Shock horror......fortunately my partner paid me a visit to break the good news about the kids in Thailand......this proved to be a great reality check

I couldn't think of an easier way of explaining my findings other than to show the measurements I took by putting them around an image of a circle with degrees already marked on it

Will someone please post their thoughts on the measurements I have taken

0 degrees is the start point from when removing all the timing pins

[E-bmw]

So, aside of a couple of anomalous readings they are pretty much all within 5Nm of 45.

I wouldn't have thought that high for a good engine, although I must stress that I have never tried the same test, others may be along that have.

Have you tried a compression check yet?

Do you have any particular concerns about the engine?

Have you dropped the oil & filter to check for metal particles?

[Penelope Stopit]

E-bmw said:

So, aside of a couple of anomalous readings they are pretty much all within 5Nm of 45.

I wouldn't have thought that high for a good engine, although I must stress that I have never tried the same test, others may be along that have.

Have you tried a compression check yet?

Do you have any particular concerns about the engine?

Have you dropped the oil & filter to check for metal particles?

I am only concerned about the effort needed to turn it

There was used oil in the engine, when I removed the sump I was very careful in checking through that oil and looking very closely for any particles of anything on the bottom of the sump as I wiped it clean
I do get too concerned at times when working on engines and that's due to having only rebuilt 2 in the past

The compression test may happen shortly, I was hoping to be able to compression test it via the heater plug holes but I can't get enough access to them to fit the pipe, I am a touch concerned about removing the injectors to carry out compression test as I have never removed injectors in the past, I think but haven't looked into it yet that the injectors will need new sealing washers if removed. I also need to get the engine and gearbox out of the car and remove the gearbox and then fit it to the engine I'm working on so that I can fit the starter motor to crank it over for a compression test
The above is a bit of a show stopper for me as I use the car often and don't have another, a quick change over is planned. Perhaps I should make a plate to take the starter motor to compression test it

Me thinking deeply as I type....If I fill the engine with oil will the oil circulate a little when turning the engine by hand?

Thank you very much for replying. It is the effort needed to turn the engine that is bothering me

I suppose I could torque test the hammered engine that's in the car as it's identical but the results mat not tell me much due to its high milage

[Mignon]

Maybe stop reading b*ll*cks on the internet and panicking over problems that don't exist.

Edited by Mignon on Tuesday 10th July 11:24

[stevieturbo]

It's a crappy old diesel...just run the thing !! lol

Did you spill any loctite on any of the bearings or something ?

[Penelope Stopit]

Mignon said:

Maybe stop reading b*ll*cks on the internet and panicking over problems that don't exist.

Edited by Mignon on Tuesday 10th July 11:24

You have put a big smile on my face. Thank you, I was hoping you would visit here today, send me the bill

[Penelope Stopit]

stevieturbo said:

It's a crappy old diesel...just run the thing !! lol

Did you spill any loctite on any of the bearings or something ?

Ok will do, thanks

No spilt Loctite

[Penelope Stopit]

Does some oil get flowing from the pump when turning the engine by hand?
What about the 15Ml of oil I poured down each bore, I know much of it was thrown out of the heater plug holes when I was turning the engine by hand, will the rest burn off or run past the rings or be a problem?

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Tuesday 10th July 21:22

[Mignon]

Pump is unlikely to prime when just turning by hand. To prime it you need to pour oil down the oilway that leads from the pump to the oil filter and turn the engine backwards.

[Penelope Stopit]

Mignon said:

Pump is unlikely to prime when just turning by hand. To prime it you need to pour oil down the oilway that leads from the pump to the oil filter and turn the engine backwards.

Thanks for the info, that's clever although I haven't thought too hard about it...I will though

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Tuesday 10th July 21:36

[Mignon]

If you remove the oil filter the oilway to the pump is the one at the side, not where the filter screws on which is the feed to the crank. All oil filters feed in from the side and back out through the centre. Slide some 8mm bore plastic tube into the side hole and pour half a cup of oil into that with a small funnel while turning the engine backwards. That will suck the oil into the pump. Do that just before you fit the engine. Oil pressure should then come straight up when you crank it.

[Penelope Stopit]

Mignon said:

If you remove the oil filter the oilway to the pump is the one at the side, not where the filter screws on which is the feed to the crank. All oil filters feed in from the side and back out through the centre. Slide some 8mm bore plastic tube into the side hole and pour half a cup of oil into that with a small funnel while turning the engine backwards. That will suck the oil into the pump. Do that just before you fit the engine. Oil pressure should then come straight up when you crank it.

This information is much appreciated, I will definitely be doing this

[Old Merc]

You are doing a part rebuild but have not removed the cylinder head ?? but you are worrying about silly little things.

Those old Peugeot XU diesels are bullet proof,will last for ever provided the oil is changed regularly and its never run short of water.

Mind if that was me,as the engine is on the floor I would have fitted a new cylinder head gasket before fitting the cambelt.While the head was off you could check the cylinder bores for cleanliness,also just make sure the valve clearances are near enough. The other job would be to remove the sump and clean it out together with the oil pump.

Then fit the engine and forget it.

[Penelope Stopit]

Old Merc said:

You are doing a part rebuild but have not removed the cylinder head ?? but you are worrying about silly little things.

Those old Peugeot XU diesels are bullet proof,will last for ever provided the oil is changed regularly and its never run short of water.

Mind if that was me,as the engine is on the floor I would have fitted a new cylinder head gasket before fitting the cambelt.While the head was off you could check the cylinder bores for cleanliness,also just make sure the valve clearances are near enough. The other job would be to remove the sump and clean it out together with the oil pump.

Then fit the engine and forget it.

I've got a 3 month warranty on this engine and have had some cash back due to the work that's been needed to be done on it, I would have lost the warranty if I removed the cylinder head, I have fitted a new camshaft and altered the valve clearances....See help from Members Mignon and Sardonicus in my other topics

The cylinder head has been skimmed in the past and the block looks like new inside where the water pump goes and all the core plugs look like new, there is a good chance that this is a reconditioned engine that hasn't been done properly, I am hoping that whoever fitted the skimmed head has tightened the bolts correctly

Time will tell. Now I know the engine I am confident that I will be able to remove the cylinder head when it's in the car if I must

I've had the sump off and cleaned it all out

Another big problem I have is that it is very difficult to source parts where I now live, the UK is very good for parts and I miss it for that

Thanks for your input

[Old Merc]

Where abouts are you? That Peugeot XU diesel is fitted to a number of strange vehicles all over the world,like a 4x4 in India. I have even seen it in a crop spraying machine in the USA !!
Dean Hunter www.peugeotparts.co.uk will mail you anything,but it could be expensive?

[Penelope Stopit]

Old Merc said:

Where abouts are you? That Peugeot XU diesel is fitted to a number of strange vehicles all over the world,like a 4x4 in India. I have even seen it in a crop spraying machine in the USA !!
Dean Hunter www.peugeotparts.co.uk will mail you anything,but it could be expensive?

Thank you for the link

[Polly Grigora]

5 Years on and 30000 miles later the baby is running as sweet as the below experts advice

Mignon said:

Maybe stop reading b*ll*cks on the internet and panicking over problems that don't exist.

When will this engine be needing a new cambelt?

[Old Merc]

Polly Grigora said:

5 Years on and 30000 miles later the baby is running as sweet as the below experts advice

Mignon said:

Maybe stop reading b*ll*cks on the internet and panicking over problems that don't exist.

When will this engine be needing a new cambelt?

Back in the old Peugeot days when that engine was fitted to 305’s, 405’s, 306’s etc, replacing a cam belt was part of the 72,000 service.
If your trusty old Peugeot is looking good and you intend to keep it for years, why not fit a new cam belt soon? If you do, change the water pump at the same time.

[gazza285]

I used to do mine at 60,000, and replaced the tensioner rather than the water pump. The bearings in the tensioner used to get a bit noisy after a while. Took mine to 270,000 miles before the van fell apart around it.

[Polly Grigora]

Old Merc said:

Back in the old Peugeot days when that engine was fitted to 305’s, 405’s, 306’s etc, replacing a cam belt was part of the 72,000 service.
If your trusty old Peugeot is looking good and you intend to keep it for years, why not fit a new cam belt soon? If you do, change the water pump at the same time.

Thank you Old Merc for posting the 72,000 Mile service cam belt change info and replacing of the pump

gazza285 said:

I used to do mine at 60,000, and replaced the tensioner rather than the water pump. The bearings in the tensioner used to get a bit noisy after a while. Took mine to 270,000 miles before the van fell apart around it.

Much appreciated gazza285, if 60,000 was good enough for you it will hopefully be good enough for me, new belt, tensioner and pump will be fitted sometime within the next 4 or 5 years if the body doesn't fall off in the near future