Diesel starting problem
Discussion
1.8TD Mondeo (98). It starts and then dies immediately, sometimes if I floor it as soon as it catches it will stay running.
If it does stall then it won't start. I have found if I open the bonnet and give the fuel filter primer a few pumps until the pump tightens up then that seems to get it going (even if I do it at night to ensure a hassle free get away the next morning).
There is a little shock absorber thingy on the throttle, that looks like it may have had it, otherwise all look Ok. The glow plugs were changed a few months back
Hoping I'm not into getting the fuel pump looked at......
>>> Edited by stigproducts on Monday 4th April 21:04
Right o
The throttle damper isn't a problem, infact it can make the engine perform a little better if you rip it off and throw it over next door's fence
It slows down the throttle shafts return to idle and has no bearing on starting.
What you describe would lead me to suspect your suffering with air ingress into the fuel system causing the poor starting and stalling. pumping the hand primer is just pushing a little more fuel into the FIP
The hand primer it's self is a very common point of failure. The diaphram is prone to perishing with age.
Next to the filter assembly there should be a little black plastic unit with 2 pipes on and a 2pin plug, this is a fuel heater to help cold starting and grey smoke on start up, it's also prone to allowing air into the system through the seams....not as common as the primer though.
Last quick thing to check would be the fuel supply pipe to the FIP, half way along (sort of between injectors 2 and 3) there is a small bleed point, the middle of it pushes out and you'll find 4 o rings, if the little plunger isn't fully pushed home it can allow air passed the rings.
These checks are on top of the basic checks to eliminate chaffed pipe work and poor connections.
Hope some of this helps,
The throttle damper isn't a problem, infact it can make the engine perform a little better if you rip it off and throw it over next door's fence
It slows down the throttle shafts return to idle and has no bearing on starting.
What you describe would lead me to suspect your suffering with air ingress into the fuel system causing the poor starting and stalling. pumping the hand primer is just pushing a little more fuel into the FIP
The hand primer it's self is a very common point of failure. The diaphram is prone to perishing with age.
Next to the filter assembly there should be a little black plastic unit with 2 pipes on and a 2pin plug, this is a fuel heater to help cold starting and grey smoke on start up, it's also prone to allowing air into the system through the seams....not as common as the primer though.
Last quick thing to check would be the fuel supply pipe to the FIP, half way along (sort of between injectors 2 and 3) there is a small bleed point, the middle of it pushes out and you'll find 4 o rings, if the little plunger isn't fully pushed home it can allow air passed the rings.
These checks are on top of the basic checks to eliminate chaffed pipe work and poor connections.
Hope some of this helps,
Nighthawk, hope you check back. A big up to you for your advice.
Have checked the fuel filter, diaphram seems ok, sucks my fingers and stays sucked!
Main culprit looks like an incorrectly fitted fuel filter. There are 2 seals at one end, instead of one. Looks like some
has not removed an old one when replacing the the filter. That was 18 months ago though 
......
Still it wasn't right so is a likely culprit. Checked the other things you said, with the exception of pre heater, which I will replace if sorting the filter doesn't solve it.
Thanks again
Have checked the fuel filter, diaphram seems ok, sucks my fingers and stays sucked!
Main culprit looks like an incorrectly fitted fuel filter. There are 2 seals at one end, instead of one. Looks like some
has not removed an old one when replacing the the filter. That was 18 months ago though ...... Still it wasn't right so is a likely culprit. Checked the other things you said, with the exception of pre heater, which I will replace if sorting the filter doesn't solve it.
Thanks again
I'm around most days 
(makes note to get a social life sorted)
On those delphi filters there are a number of seals.
1x square section O ring on the bowel
1x square section O ring on in the top of the filter head
1X round section O ring on the locating dowel
1X round section O ring on the through bolt.
It's Not unknown for the bolts to get overtightened and cause a crack in the alloy bowel on the bottom of the filter, but you'll normally get a diesel leak with that.
The extra seal might well be the culprit, with time it may have compressed a little and allowed small amounts of air to enter. I've also found that while the primer button will stay "sucked" down when pressed and the pipe blocked off, they can still allow tiny amounts of air.....over a long period of non running (i.e night time) it can be enough to cause the stall.
Here's hoping it'll be fine with the filter fitted correctly now.
(makes note to get a social life sorted) On those delphi filters there are a number of seals.
1x square section O ring on the bowel
1x square section O ring on in the top of the filter head
1X round section O ring on the locating dowel
1X round section O ring on the through bolt.
It's Not unknown for the bolts to get overtightened and cause a crack in the alloy bowel on the bottom of the filter, but you'll normally get a diesel leak with that.
The extra seal might well be the culprit, with time it may have compressed a little and allowed small amounts of air to enter. I've also found that while the primer button will stay "sucked" down when pressed and the pipe blocked off, they can still allow tiny amounts of air.....over a long period of non running (i.e night time) it can be enough to cause the stall.
Here's hoping it'll be fine with the filter fitted correctly now.
blimeh
I've not heard of that for a long while.
you'll b talking about the rear mount bolted to the gearbox i suppose, replace it with the zetec part and the noise goes. both escort TD and mondeo TD suffered with that.
From memory, both parts are 50odd quid each.
the pipework for the fuel heater can be bridged and i've also has success with a diaphram replacement using an old inner tube....but that was a temp fix
I've not heard of that for a long while.
you'll b talking about the rear mount bolted to the gearbox i suppose, replace it with the zetec part and the noise goes.
both escort TD and mondeo TD suffered with that. From memory, both parts are 50odd quid each.
the pipework for the fuel heater can be bridged and i've also has success with a diaphram replacement using an old inner tube....but that was a temp fix
nighthawk said:
you'll b talking about the rear mount bolted to the gearbox i suppose, replace it with the zetec part and the noise goes.
Do I just replace the TD rear engine mount with a Zetec unit ? Is this to cure the problem that sounds like a CV joint being compressed on cornering ?
Cheers, Steve
ooooh look how threads grow on here
If you can wait till tomorrow i'll get you some part numbers and a few other details.
But in a nut shell, certain turbo diesel vehicles can experience a noise which has been incorrectly diagnosed as a faulty drive shaft, and replacing the rear mount with a unit from a zetec engined vehicle can cure it.
If you can wait till tomorrow i'll get you some part numbers and a few other details.
But in a nut shell, certain turbo diesel vehicles can experience a noise which has been incorrectly diagnosed as a faulty drive shaft, and replacing the rear mount with a unit from a zetec engined vehicle can cure it.
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