Mondeo autobox holds 1st too long when warm

[xxlukexx]

Hi there,

Hope this is the right forum to be posting this on, please let me know if not.

I've recently bought a 94 Mondeo GLX auto with 93K on it and no service history (it was very cheap!) When it's cold everything is fine, but once the engine has warmed up (5-15 minutes depending on driving) it tends to hold first gear for far too long, then change into second with a lurch.

At first I thought it was me not being used to an auto but whether I try to accelerate slowly, hard, hold the gas when I'm waiting for it to change or let off a little it won't ever change below 2500rpm and sometimes holds it til above 4000rpm.

As I say, when cold it changes smoothly and at the right time.

My knowledge on engines is pretty basic and on auto gearboxes is practically nothing but if anyone could give me an idea of what might be wrong it would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Luke

[flooritforever]

Sounds like something ain't right at all. The lighter throttle pressure you apply, the sooner the box should change up. You need to get the box looked at. At best, the gearbox oil is low. If not, then either an oil channel is getting blocked or something it getting stuck as the gearbox warms up.

[DeltaFox]

Sounds like one of the brake bands is slipping when warm. You need a specialist im afraid, or replace the box.

[Incorrigible]

You have checked the fluid level haven't you ??

There should be another dipstick arrangement somewhere. If the fluid is all manky (like engine oil gets) drop it and replace with new ATF this will probably improve it no end

If it doesn't then I'm afraid the gearbox will need a proper look at

[GavinPearson]

Oil level cannot be too low otherwise you won't get engagement when cold, but it could be too high and getting severely aerated. That will make the shifts very poor.

I would change the oil for new Mercon V, get the oil level right - that means you add just enough to get the car to move, get the engine warm, drive 1/2 a mile, engage every gear for a second, then add oil until it's low on the hot scale WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING.

I would then drive for 5 miles and check it again. Top up so it is at the mid point on the hot scale, again, after engaging all gears and keeping the engine running.

I would also disconnect the battery to reset the transmission pressures, leavbe the battery off for 30 minutes. It has almost certainly compensated for shift problems and you want to get it to relearn what pressures are required to get the shifts right. Treat it gently at first then it won't do itself a nasty.

[xxlukexx]

Thanks for all your comments.

I have checked the fluid level, but I'm not 100% sure whether I'm reading it right as I don't have manual for the car and have never had an auto before! Excuse me being a bit thick...

There is a line on the dipstick and then above that (i.e. closer to the handle of the stick) is a hashed area. There's then some text pointing at the hashed area saying something about don't fill it up if it's in that area. I'm going to get a Haynes manual and check in there.

One other question - if I change the gearbox fluid is it similar to changing the engine oil? Is there a valve underneath the car to drain the old fluid out? As you can probably tell I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to actually doing things on the car.

THanks again, your help is much appreciated,

Luke

>> Edited by xxlukexx on Thursday 3rd March 17:12