Alfa Crank Shaft Oil Seal
Discussion
Anyone know whether it is possible to replace the rear crankshaft oil seal on a 24V Alfa 3.0 (in a 164 cloverleaf) without pulling the engine. The manual isn't too clear and describes it as part of the engine rebuild process. I would like to get away with just pulling the gearbox out if possible.
Damn thing disgraced itself by dumping a load of oil on Brooklands historic banking at the weekend!.
Many thanks in advance.
Damn thing disgraced itself by dumping a load of oil on Brooklands historic banking at the weekend!.
Many thanks in advance.
I just saw this one, so here goes. I believe that it is possible to remove the gearbox to change the clutch without too much trouble. If the flywheel is then removed, it is fairly easy to change the rear crank seal. Just be gentle and don't gouge the metal around the seal. When reasembling, be careful not to trap part of the wiring loom which runs on the top of the bellhousing- I've seen that done a couple of times.
Will do, though you may get there first as I have to finish destroying the block on the 523 in my attempt to fit helicoils first, then a CV on a 323 Mazda, then maybe look at my own cars. Got the seal now from EBSpares. £9:00 inc Vat.
Edited to say: I have done a Twin Spark clutch by just moving the 'box away from the engine rather than removing it completely. This avoids a lot of the shifting stuff above type issues but obviously gives you less space in which to get the clutch properly centred and if you need to remove the flywheel you don't stand much of a chance IIRC. I landed on the method having found it described in an article on the internet referring to a 3.0l (unfortunately didn't keep the URL). IIRC the method was along the lines of: remove hub carrier from LHS upright and steering arm. Remove splash guards, Split RH driveshaft at silentblock. Remove the gear linkage and tie rod. Support engine, Unbolt Starter motor, couple of shields and bell housing. Unbolt bottom of gearbox mounting on LHS subframe. and slide gearbox gracefully to LHS producing gap of about three inches to gain access to clutch. I am sure there are a few dozen other odds and snods that needed shifting but those were the basics. Sounds simple but it had me cursing and swearing for a day or so, (though that was mainly due to breaking two of the bell housing to engine block bolts on reassembly) some of the access is truly horrible.
>> Edited by rustybin on Tuesday 19th October 16:24
Edited to say: I have done a Twin Spark clutch by just moving the 'box away from the engine rather than removing it completely. This avoids a lot of the shifting stuff above type issues but obviously gives you less space in which to get the clutch properly centred and if you need to remove the flywheel you don't stand much of a chance IIRC. I landed on the method having found it described in an article on the internet referring to a 3.0l (unfortunately didn't keep the URL). IIRC the method was along the lines of: remove hub carrier from LHS upright and steering arm. Remove splash guards, Split RH driveshaft at silentblock. Remove the gear linkage and tie rod. Support engine, Unbolt Starter motor, couple of shields and bell housing. Unbolt bottom of gearbox mounting on LHS subframe. and slide gearbox gracefully to LHS producing gap of about three inches to gain access to clutch. I am sure there are a few dozen other odds and snods that needed shifting but those were the basics. Sounds simple but it had me cursing and swearing for a day or so, (though that was mainly due to breaking two of the bell housing to engine block bolts on reassembly) some of the access is truly horrible.
>> Edited by rustybin on Tuesday 19th October 16:24
I overfilled the overdrive gearbox on my Volvo Amazon once... as soon as it got up to around 70mph, wads of oil sprayed out of the breather and all over the exhaust. Never seen such a massive cloud of smoke - good job there wasn't anyone behind me suddenly finding themselves doing 70 in zero vis.
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