Cam-Belt changing folklore
Discussion
I recall reading somewhere that one way of changing cambelts with reduced drama would be to cut the belt laterally down the middle, remove one half and push a new belt half way on aligned with the old. You then cut off the remaining half of the old belt and push the new belt fully on, thus avoiding the need to lock cams etc.
It all sounds a bit Heath Robinson to me but I'm finding it hard to think of a 'technical reason' why its such a bad idea.
I am sure you will all embarass me now by thinking of dozens.
(retreats having lit blue touch paper)
It all sounds a bit Heath Robinson to me but I'm finding it hard to think of a 'technical reason' why its such a bad idea.
I am sure you will all embarass me now by thinking of dozens.
(retreats having lit blue touch paper)
I can only really see three advantages.
1) If you cant find another way to lock the cams
2) An absence of technical info on marks etc to allow accurate setting.
3) having the new belt adjacent to the old means you can be certain you're not one tooth out or such like.
Having only changed timing chains in the past I haven't really had to get involved with belts. The only one I have come across having been used for a scavenge pump on a dry sump application and I would have thought cutting lengthways down that (which was pretty small by comparisson), reasonably accuratley would have been a b$%&ard of a job. Particularly as without the cams locked the last thing you want is to inadvertently go through the whole belt by mistake.
1) If you cant find another way to lock the cams
2) An absence of technical info on marks etc to allow accurate setting.
3) having the new belt adjacent to the old means you can be certain you're not one tooth out or such like.
Having only changed timing chains in the past I haven't really had to get involved with belts. The only one I have come across having been used for a scavenge pump on a dry sump application and I would have thought cutting lengthways down that (which was pretty small by comparisson), reasonably accuratley would have been a b$%&ard of a job. Particularly as without the cams locked the last thing you want is to inadvertently go through the whole belt by mistake.
Never thought of that - it's not a bad idea. At first I was thinking that you'd risk scratching the pulleys with the blade, but you could actually turn the engine over with a spanner on the crank progressively exposing the belt at a place where it would easy to cut it.
Having said that, I've done plenty of cam belt replacements and not used a cam locking device yet. Just set engine at TDC, make sure the positions of all pulleys are clearly and unambiguously marked, take off belt, put on new one, set tension and voila.
Having said that, I've done plenty of cam belt replacements and not used a cam locking device yet. Just set engine at TDC, make sure the positions of all pulleys are clearly and unambiguously marked, take off belt, put on new one, set tension and voila.
The idea is there but would be virtualy impossible, unless you have arms like Garth and can pull the belt into position without backing off the tensioner. Most proper motor factors will hire you a cam locking tool (usualy the cost will be minimal, but a deposit for value of tool will be needed just in case you don't return it).
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