head gasket on a mk1 golf
Discussion
I think the steam emmitting from the head gasket has given me a good indication of why my Golf has been playing up on the temperature front.
I've ordered a head gasket set, 10 new head bolts and a rocker gasket from GSF, any advice before I start taking it to bits? I've not changed a head gasket before.
I'm not going to bother with skimming, as to be perfectly honest, I can't be arsed I'll check the head to be sure it's not badly warped though.
Am I going to be left over with lots of fiddly bits, i've heard that the inlet manifold bolts can be a bitch?
any advice welcome.
I've ordered a head gasket set, 10 new head bolts and a rocker gasket from GSF, any advice before I start taking it to bits? I've not changed a head gasket before.
I'm not going to bother with skimming, as to be perfectly honest, I can't be arsed I'll check the head to be sure it's not badly warped though.
Am I going to be left over with lots of fiddly bits, i've heard that the inlet manifold bolts can be a bitch?
any advice welcome.
Not sure the Mk. 1, but the early Mk. 2s used springy steel 'C's for the connection of the exhaust manifold to the exhaust system. These are virtually impossible to get off without the special tool - worth checking if yours is a bolted connection or not, as getting the exhaust manifold off in situ can be a real pain.
Don't forget to change oil and filter after the head job.
Might want to consider measuring up the valve clearances before taking the head off. I think it's like a Mk. 2 with solid lifters, so if you're taking the head off anyway then it is a good opportunity to redo the clearances. Depends how many miles the engine's done.
Unless you know that it's working OK, I'd replace the thermostat aswell - amazing that failure of a £5 component can knacker a head gasket so easily..
Make sure that you get ALL the oil/water out of the head bolt sockets in the block before final clean up and reassembly - easy to 'hydraulic' a bolt when replacing the head otherwise.
I've often done head jobs without skimming - I just 'stone' the surfaces nice and clean using a flat engineer's stone with water.
That's all that springs to mind - best of luck...
Don't forget to change oil and filter after the head job.
Might want to consider measuring up the valve clearances before taking the head off. I think it's like a Mk. 2 with solid lifters, so if you're taking the head off anyway then it is a good opportunity to redo the clearances. Depends how many miles the engine's done.
Unless you know that it's working OK, I'd replace the thermostat aswell - amazing that failure of a £5 component can knacker a head gasket so easily..
Make sure that you get ALL the oil/water out of the head bolt sockets in the block before final clean up and reassembly - easy to 'hydraulic' a bolt when replacing the head otherwise.
I've often done head jobs without skimming - I just 'stone' the surfaces nice and clean using a flat engineer's stone with water.
That's all that springs to mind - best of luck...
trooper1212 said:Yah lazy bas! You can even get it done in Leighton (you could walk to the place!). I'd recommend skimming because for £20 and a day or two delay is much easier than stripping the car down again afterwards because the head was slightly warped.
Incorrigible said:
Considering a head skim is only going to cost you £20 I can't personaly see any reason not to do it
How about the hassle of taking it somewhere to get it done.
If you need any help, you can always call (not that I know anything about VWs, but that didn't stop you staring at my Jag!!!)
Sheepy
Take the (cork?) rocker cover gasket back to GSF...
And go get a kit from VAG that includes a proper rubber seal type gasket (reuseable I assume), and new studs to fit with it, for a surprisingly reasonable £5-ish.
No more leaks
Also I would get the head skimmed as well, for the sake of an afternoons delay and £20.
Hopefully on a Mk1 you will have the 'dual outlet' exhaust manifold, with 6 stud fitting to the downpipe. If you have got the nasty C-clips, apparently they can be put back on by the cunning use of an appropriately sized exhaust U-clamp - put it inside the clip and use the 'clamp' to spread the clip apart.
Personally I just junked that deeply crap manifold and fitted a dual outlet one, purchased from Ebay for £10.
Cheers, Phil
And go get a kit from VAG that includes a proper rubber seal type gasket (reuseable I assume), and new studs to fit with it, for a surprisingly reasonable £5-ish.
No more leaks
Also I would get the head skimmed as well, for the sake of an afternoons delay and £20.
Hopefully on a Mk1 you will have the 'dual outlet' exhaust manifold, with 6 stud fitting to the downpipe. If you have got the nasty C-clips, apparently they can be put back on by the cunning use of an appropriately sized exhaust U-clamp - put it inside the clip and use the 'clamp' to spread the clip apart.
Personally I just junked that deeply crap manifold and fitted a dual outlet one, purchased from Ebay for £10.
Cheers, Phil
sheepy said:
trooper1212 said:
Incorrigible said:
Considering a head skim is only going to cost you I can't personaly see any reason not to do it
How about the hassle of taking it somewhere to get it done.
Yah lazy bas! You can even get it done in Leighton (you could walk to the place!)
Who's that then? Good old Mann Motors?
It seems a pretty straightforward job as far as I can tell, my only worry is whether the gasket kit will actually be any use, as it is no longer a typical golf, big valves and an alloy head etc...
Only way to find out for sure is to take it apart and see, as the guy who build the motor is a bit elusive.
filmidget said:
Take the (cork?) rocker cover gasket back to GSF...
And go get a kit from VAG that includes a proper rubber seal type gasket (reuseable I assume), and new studs to fit with it, for a surprisingly reasonable sh.
No more leaks
Also I would get the head skimmed as well, for the sake of an afternoons delay and
Hopefully on a Mk1 you will have the 'dual outlet' exhaust manifold, with 6 stud fitting to the downpipe. If you have got the nasty C-clips, apparently they can be put back on by the cunning use of an appropriately sized exhaust U-clamp - put it inside the clip and use the 'clamp' to spread the clip apart.
Personally I just junked that deeply crap manifold and fitted a dual outlet one, purchased from Ebay for
Cheers, Phil
Thanks for the tip on the rocker gasket.
The whole exhaust system has been replaced with a high flow system at some point, so hopefully I won't have too many hassles along that front.
trooper1212 said:
...my only worry is whether the gasket kit will actually be any use, as it is no longer a typical golf, big valves and an alloy head etc...
Errrrrr...
They all have alloy heads don't they?
And even bigger valves are unlikely to be any bigger than the cylinder bore, so a standard head gasket shouldn't be a problem
If the block has been bored to 82.5/83mm for a 1900 conversion, then I think you need a 2.0litre engine gasket... not sure which though.
Cheers, Phil
Hmmm lovely... nearly went 1900 when I rebuilt my motor... You know they are Audi 5-cylinder pistons?
I think you need a 2.0 gasket for a Golf Mk3 - I seem to remember something about being able to get a good metal one, but I forget.
Might be worth a search on the ClubGTI(.com) forum.
Failing that could try calling C&R in Nottingham - they were very open about which pistons a 1900 conversion uses (unlike other tuners) so might be able to tell you which one, or at least sell you one.
Cheers, Phil
I think you need a 2.0 gasket for a Golf Mk3 - I seem to remember something about being able to get a good metal one, but I forget.
Might be worth a search on the ClubGTI(.com) forum.
Failing that could try calling C&R in Nottingham - they were very open about which pistons a 1900 conversion uses (unlike other tuners) so might be able to tell you which one, or at least sell you one.
Cheers, Phil
trooper1212 said:Personally I use K&J Engine Services in Betchley (good lads, done several jobs for me on both cars), but I have been lead to believe that there's a firm somewhere down near the council depot in King St which can do a good skim, but I've no idea of the name.
Who's that then? Good old Mann Motors?
Just been looking on clubgti, it seems that the standard gasket is good for up to 83mm, so I'll just see if it fits I guess!
I'm not in any rush and gaskets are hardly expensive so I'll order a mk3 gasket if it doesn't seem snug.
I guess I could always get some gasket paper and make my own! It's not like it gets any major usage and I seriously doubt this will be the only time it gets taken apart due to it being a track car
I don't know how much you know about mk1 engine conversions, but i've got a grant motorsports stage 4 conversion which is doing about 160bhp, not a bad little runner if I can keep the temperature down.
sheepy said:Ta, k&j sound a good bet then.
trooper1212 said:Personally I use K&J Engine Services in Betchley (good lads, done several jobs for me on both cars), but I have been lead to believe that there's a firm somewhere down near the council depot in King St which can do a good skim, but I've no idea of the name.
Who's that then? Good old Mann Motors?
Whyd ya need to remove the manifolds then? Just disconnect the exhaust at the downpipe, and take the head off complete with both intake and exhaust attached......easy enough to do...just "phone a friend" (if ya have any available ) to help you lift it off the block. Sorted.
Why disturb things that dont need to be disturbed?Why make even more work?
Take it easy with a cadburys cara..... erm actually take it easy and get yer mates to do it while you relax in the sun with a beer...
Why disturb things that dont need to be disturbed?Why make even more work?
Take it easy with a cadburys cara..... erm actually take it easy and get yer mates to do it while you relax in the sun with a beer...
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