Air compressors
Discussion
Not really too sure of the best place to put this, but this forum seems as good as any.
I'm looking to buy an air compressor for workshop use, spending somewhere in the region of £400 or so.
Does anyone have any recommendations?
So far, Sealey, Draper and SIP all seem to be similarly priced for the same power/receiver/cfm spec, but Clarke appear to be much cheaper. For example, a 3hp/10cfm ish compressor is about £400 from those three, but Clarke do a 3hp/14cfm/150l for £350! So what's wrong with it?
I'm looking to buy an air compressor for workshop use, spending somewhere in the region of £400 or so.
Does anyone have any recommendations?
So far, Sealey, Draper and SIP all seem to be similarly priced for the same power/receiver/cfm spec, but Clarke appear to be much cheaper. For example, a 3hp/10cfm ish compressor is about £400 from those three, but Clarke do a 3hp/14cfm/150l for £350! So what's wrong with it?
I would look at an industrial supplier for compressors.
I bought mine from Thorite in Yorkshire, offer cash and ask for a discount.
The quality of the motor is important, something like a Brooks Crompton is going to be better than a Machinery Mart Chinese special.
I went for a high capacity motor with a small tank. I think it is 3hp single phase.
Also check free running cfm.
John
I bought mine from Thorite in Yorkshire, offer cash and ask for a discount.
The quality of the motor is important, something like a Brooks Crompton is going to be better than a Machinery Mart Chinese special.
I went for a high capacity motor with a small tank. I think it is 3hp single phase.
Also check free running cfm.
John
I think you will find that Sealey, Draper and SIP use exactly the same suppliers.
You didn't state what you want to do with it,Given that you are allready looking at 3hp compressors you know not to waste time with the silly 1 - 1.5 hp efforts - they are useless for anything other than inflating tyres.
If you are running air tools such as die grinders and ratchets you need plenty of CFM - my home made 3 hp compressor can just about keep up with the demands of these tools.
I used an old G** cylinder(u work it out!), un-siezed a twin cylinder 14cfm compressor and stuck a 3hp motor on it - works like a charm.
Another consideration maybe noise, they make quite a racket in a domestic environment, that and an air ratchet on a sunday morning easily offends the neighbors.
Eliot.
You didn't state what you want to do with it,Given that you are allready looking at 3hp compressors you know not to waste time with the silly 1 - 1.5 hp efforts - they are useless for anything other than inflating tyres.
If you are running air tools such as die grinders and ratchets you need plenty of CFM - my home made 3 hp compressor can just about keep up with the demands of these tools.
I used an old G** cylinder(u work it out!), un-siezed a twin cylinder 14cfm compressor and stuck a 3hp motor on it - works like a charm.
Another consideration maybe noise, they make quite a racket in a domestic environment, that and an air ratchet on a sunday morning easily offends the neighbors.
Eliot.
Thanks for all the pointers guys.
I'm going to be using it for various workshop jobs, ratchets, impact wrenches, drills, tyre inflators, that sort of thing. Possibly solvent and waxoyl sprayers and anything else I can think of in the process of building a kit car, restoring a Mk1 golf and rebuilding a few engines.
As or noise, whilst I don't want it to be hugely loud, my workshop's on a farm so it's not too much of a problem.
As for where to buy it, I'd taken a look around Toolsnstuff, so will give Patrick a call and see if there's anything he can do to grease the wheels.
Thanks again.
I'm going to be using it for various workshop jobs, ratchets, impact wrenches, drills, tyre inflators, that sort of thing. Possibly solvent and waxoyl sprayers and anything else I can think of in the process of building a kit car, restoring a Mk1 golf and rebuilding a few engines.
As or noise, whilst I don't want it to be hugely loud, my workshop's on a farm so it's not too much of a problem.
As for where to buy it, I'd taken a look around Toolsnstuff, so will give Patrick a call and see if there's anything he can do to grease the wheels.
Thanks again.
If it's high hobby use rather than comercial, I wouldn't rule out the lower power ones
I've got a 1.5hp and it's fine for painting cars
It can't of course cope with extended air drilling, ratcheting, sanding etc but I've found electris inpact wrenches and drills are are more portable/usable
They are heavier and more expensive of course, but pays your money takes your choice
I've got a 1.5hp and it's fine for painting cars
It can't of course cope with extended air drilling, ratcheting, sanding etc but I've found electris inpact wrenches and drills are are more portable/usable
They are heavier and more expensive of course, but pays your money takes your choice
Main things to look for in a compressor are:
1/ Belt or Direct Drive - Belt drive units in general run slower and quieter and therefore last longer.
2/ Output CFM - or FAD (Free Air Delivery), this is the critical number idealy you want 8+ FAD if you are going to do any form of blasting or sanding, or any sustained usage - air wratchets and drills etc.
3/ Oil Free or Oil Lubricated - Oil Free compressors are "lubricated for life" - this is all down to the length of expected life an oil free is not an everyday use compressor - for everyday use you will need an oil lubricated pump.
4/ Receiver Size - Now this one is easy... ish., the more air you need the bigger receiver you need. or to use a tool that needs more air than your compressor can sustain again go for a big tank, in general use for DIY 50 to 100 litres is fine, for workshop 150 - 200
5/ HP - like in our cars more HP is better, 1.5HP is entry level, 2hp for DIY, 3hp for Small Workshop - above this you loose the ability to run from a 13A 240V socket and get into 20A sockets or 3 Phase so probably not relevant for these pages, note even some of the high end 3HP units will require 16A sockets. Horse power in your compressor pump IS directly related to the achievable FAD CFM
And dont get me started on air lines and connections
>> Edited by dontlift on Wednesday 8th September 19:40
1/ Belt or Direct Drive - Belt drive units in general run slower and quieter and therefore last longer.
2/ Output CFM - or FAD (Free Air Delivery), this is the critical number idealy you want 8+ FAD if you are going to do any form of blasting or sanding, or any sustained usage - air wratchets and drills etc.
3/ Oil Free or Oil Lubricated - Oil Free compressors are "lubricated for life" - this is all down to the length of expected life an oil free is not an everyday use compressor - for everyday use you will need an oil lubricated pump.
4/ Receiver Size - Now this one is easy... ish., the more air you need the bigger receiver you need. or to use a tool that needs more air than your compressor can sustain again go for a big tank, in general use for DIY 50 to 100 litres is fine, for workshop 150 - 200
5/ HP - like in our cars more HP is better, 1.5HP is entry level, 2hp for DIY, 3hp for Small Workshop - above this you loose the ability to run from a 13A 240V socket and get into 20A sockets or 3 Phase so probably not relevant for these pages, note even some of the high end 3HP units will require 16A sockets. Horse power in your compressor pump IS directly related to the achievable FAD CFM
And dont get me started on air lines and connections
>> Edited by dontlift on Wednesday 8th September 19:40
timf said:
www.diy-compressors.com/shop/belt-driven-compressors.htm
these are resonable and good quality
Yep, that's exactly the same compressor unit i used on my DIY jobby. You purchase it for a little over a hundred quid - fabricate the rest if you handy with da welda.
Eliot.
If you want to paint a car, you need a minimum of 9 cfm FAD at 60 psi plus what you need for the mask.
Site the compressor outside if you are painting.
I had a SIP airmate and it was superb. If I was buying one again I'd aim for 14cfm fad with a 200 litre tank.
Buying quality secondhand is also a good route to getting what is really useful if you take your hobby seriously.
Site the compressor outside if you are painting.
I had a SIP airmate and it was superb. If I was buying one again I'd aim for 14cfm fad with a 200 litre tank.
Buying quality secondhand is also a good route to getting what is really useful if you take your hobby seriously.
GavinPearson said:
If you want to paint a car, you need a minimum of 9 cfm FAD at 60 psi plus what you need for the mask.
Site the compressor outside if you are painting.
I had a SIP airmate and it was superb. If I was buying one again I'd aim for 14cfm fad with a 200 litre tank.
Buying quality secondhand is also a good route to getting what is really useful if you take your hobby seriously.
Agreed Gavin,
We have a route into SIP recon service center if anyone is looking for Quality SIP reconditioned items.
Always worth keeping an eye on our recon stock - a proportion of which we sell via eBay
www.toolsnstuff.co.uk/current_auctions.php
>> Edited by dontlift on Thursday 9th September 07:08
Fatboy said:
And dont get me started on air lines and connections
Actually, could you - I'd be very interested in an unbiased opinion of these sort of things - I may well be after one when I get back to blighty....
Simply - Buy the best you can, alot of people buy cheap air lines and quick release connectors - and dont put them together properly and then wonder why they are loosing pressure in the lines.
A good bet is go for a wall mounted ratchet type line (that way you cant pull and strain the line at the connection with the compressor), use good quality quick release connectors - and shed loads of PTFE tape on all connectors both on the hose and on the tools.
I personally use one of these.
www.toolsnstuff.co.uk/product_info.php/pName/Major-Air-Hose-Reel-15M-x-8mm/products_id/775&cPath=4_131_181
I then have a 5m coiled recoil line on the end of the reel line - just to give more freedom of movement and a lighter line on the final section, this also means if i am working in the engine bay etc, i am less likely to damage my nice expensive wall mounted line, as the 5m coiled line on the end only costs a fiver and the recoil on the wall is over 100 notes
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