Running in a race car engine
Discussion
This is a standard engine but in a race car 
Some people are advocating the manufaturers reccomended runninf in period, ie 500 miles oli change then off you go
Other people saying a few hundred mile will be fine
But I'm thinking flat out straight out of the crate is the way forward
Any suggestions (Caterham BTW, so nothing wildly tuned)
Some people are advocating the manufaturers reccomended runninf in period, ie 500 miles oli change then off you go
Other people saying a few hundred mile will be fine
But I'm thinking flat out straight out of the crate is the way forward
Any suggestions (Caterham BTW, so nothing wildly tuned)
joospeed said:Did you say that because you knew I'd do it like that anyway
flat out from the word go is my advice .. it'll take ages to do 500 miles in a race car at running in speeds .. and it's not like you need it to last 100k miles anyway .. blast fast and enjoy
It's probably a bit premature as I haven't got the rest of the car, let alone the engine, yet
Racing engines are normally built "looser", i.e. with larger bearing clearances, so don't need running in in the same way as a road engine. This is because they are obviously not destined to do too many miles before being stripped and rebuilt and the builder wants them to deliver full power virtually from the outset.
If your engine is a normal road engine with tight bearing clearances then in my opinion it should be run in a bit before application of max welly. However, this is just an opinion and you should probably ask the opinion of a pro....
If your engine is a normal road engine with tight bearing clearances then in my opinion it should be run in a bit before application of max welly. However, this is just an opinion and you should probably ask the opinion of a pro....
pdV6 said:
<a href="http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm">www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm</a>
Makes for interesting reading
Yep, read that before
and it has me convinced (if only because I'm so impatient) What do the collective reckon ??
>> And Stig, this method highlights the importance of getting up to normal operating temp before giving it lohnny large potatoes
>> Edited by Incorrigible on Monday 6th September 15:56
Incorrigible said:
Good - actually, make that 'essential' practice on any vehicle IMHO.
Apart from hire cars Shirley
Yes but hire cars are designed to:
1)go 500 miles with the oil light on
2)carry 6 to 8 full size paving slabs in the boot
3)floors which also double as ash trays
and
4)be red lined in every gear from a cold start
the shell bearing may need to go through a few heat cycles before being put under full load, and the rings need to form an effective seal in the bores. The top end s/be OK. Make sure you use a sh1te oil, (i.e. a mineral oil) as this will help the surfaces bed together (though hopefully not stick together with heat!). I'd do 100 miles gently, drop the oil (& filter) for fully synthetic, then start to give it the berries. I run all my bikes in on the track. No point messing around. I've never had one use a drop of oil. Keep the oil fresh and you'll have no probs.
I can get you 5/40 semi synthetic (API SL) for £5 for 5 litres, or cheaper if you get a 25 litre 'drum'. It's non branded, but you can afford to do a race or two, then drop the oil. Forget the expensive stuff, as far as I'm concerned, as long as it's got a good spec, (i.e. meets the required API spec) then it can go in. I change mine every 1k though. Comes out looking like golden syrup (clean), and keeps the engine fresh...
Ask Marquis_rex to comment, he's an automotive engineer and will give you a scientific answer.
>> Edited by fergus on Monday 6th September 21:50
I can get you 5/40 semi synthetic (API SL) for £5 for 5 litres, or cheaper if you get a 25 litre 'drum'. It's non branded, but you can afford to do a race or two, then drop the oil. Forget the expensive stuff, as far as I'm concerned, as long as it's got a good spec, (i.e. meets the required API spec) then it can go in. I change mine every 1k though. Comes out looking like golden syrup (clean), and keeps the engine fresh...
Ask Marquis_rex to comment, he's an automotive engineer and will give you a scientific answer.
>> Edited by fergus on Monday 6th September 21:50
On initial fire up I give the pedal a big stab so the rings bed into the bores before there's to much oil on them. After that I keep the revs at 3k to bed the camshaft lobes in. After that I drive a various throttle loads to work the rings and/or suck oil onto the cylinders.
Japanese bikes hit full throttle on startup. If nothing breaks then it must be ok to sell.
Japanese bikes hit full throttle on startup. If nothing breaks then it must be ok to sell.
Boosted Ls1 said:
On initial fire up I give the pedal a big stab so the rings bed into the bores before there's to much oil on them. After that I keep the revs at 3k to bed the camshaft lobes in. After that I drive a various throttle loads to work the rings and/or suck oil onto the cylinders.
Japanese bikes hit full throttle on startup. If nothing breaks then it must be ok to sell.
Must say all my motorcycles were never run in and just thrashed these were evidently quiker than one that were run in,and car engines on start up run at 2000 rpm for 5 mins out on the road 30 miles 3000 rpm and so till full revs at 150 miles done as i have found out in my own experience oil consumption is a factor from full thrash from the crate.
stesrg said:
On initial fire up I give the pedal a big stab so the rings bed into the bores before there's to much oil on them. After that I keep the revs at 3k to bed the camshaft lobes in. After that I drive a various throttle loads to work the rings and/or suck oil onto the cylinders.
Japanese bikes hit full throttle on startup. If nothing breaks then it must be ok to sell.
Must say all my motorcycles were never run in and just thrashed these were evidently quiker than one that were run in,and car engines on start up run at 2000 rpm for 5 mins out on the road 30 miles 3000 rpm and so till full revs at 150 miles done as i have found out in my own experience oil consumption is a factor from full thrash from the crate.
The hard break in with bikes has been proved to make more power. Manufacturers want you to go slow so you don't have an accident and so they can make money from servicing etc.
Incorrigible said:
So where should the running in be done 
I was thinking Brands
He he, big initial revs in the workshop or on the driveway. Make sure you can breath, obviously! 20 mins or so to bed the cam in and check for leaks and coolant issues. Then terrorise the local community for a couple of hundred miles. Jobs a good-un!
Got advice from race engine builder for my (road) car to bed cam in at 2500rpm for 20 mins. Then do first 150miles in one hit and reach upper rev limits regularly when car engine is at operating temperatures in first few gears. As said letting engines idle and labour is the bad things.
Crucial thing IMO is correct oil choice and allowing engine to warm up correct before thrashing and cooling down sufficiently whilst on move (i.e. not idling) before switching off...
Put thin oil in for bedding in,change at very quick interval (say around 150miles for race engine or 500 for road) and use mineral oil for first few thousand, before changing to synthetic afterwards with regular changes.
>> Edited by Buffalo on Tuesday 7th September 20:56
Crucial thing IMO is correct oil choice and allowing engine to warm up correct before thrashing and cooling down sufficiently whilst on move (i.e. not idling) before switching off...
Put thin oil in for bedding in,change at very quick interval (say around 150miles for race engine or 500 for road) and use mineral oil for first few thousand, before changing to synthetic afterwards with regular changes.
>> Edited by Buffalo on Tuesday 7th September 20:56
A friend of mine did dyno cert work for a living and reckoned a 40 hour break in cycling between max power and max torque was best for power. You warm it up gently first, then go for it.
I'd do the break in on a dyno, don't take the race engine to the track. You'll wear out tyres etc, do the car no good, cost track time, when all you're looking to do is bed the rings and bearings in.
A half day's testing will do nothing for you, if that's the case just turn up and race.
I'd do the break in on a dyno, don't take the race engine to the track. You'll wear out tyres etc, do the car no good, cost track time, when all you're looking to do is bed the rings and bearings in.
A half day's testing will do nothing for you, if that's the case just turn up and race.
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