Running in required?
Discussion
hello peeps
I've just had my 911 engine rebuilt after mis shifting and buzzing it (9600rpm - nice) - like a tw@t.
I've had 12 new valves, flat valve seat, Ti retainers, race spec springs, 12 new rocker arms, ARP big end bolts, new big end shells, ARP head studs, the crank x-rayed and checked for run out....
The question is, as I've not got new pistons/rings, etc, or had new main shells, do I really need to run the fecker in?
I've heard mixed opinions from various engine builders. Personally I can't see what there is to bed in, even after a few heat cycles. All torque settings should be OK.
Opinions please?
ta
I've just had my 911 engine rebuilt after mis shifting and buzzing it (9600rpm - nice) - like a tw@t.
I've had 12 new valves, flat valve seat, Ti retainers, race spec springs, 12 new rocker arms, ARP big end bolts, new big end shells, ARP head studs, the crank x-rayed and checked for run out....
The question is, as I've not got new pistons/rings, etc, or had new main shells, do I really need to run the fecker in?
I've heard mixed opinions from various engine builders. Personally I can't see what there is to bed in, even after a few heat cycles. All torque settings should be OK.
Opinions please?
ta
I'd second the above comments. Be careful for a short while in case of leaks or mechanical errors etc. If it's fine after a couple of hundred miles build up the loads. Some people (not you) just have no mechanical sympathy. You need to get a feel for what's happening, does it feel free or tight. It's like maing love to a beautiful woman.. oops
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