Radweld in Rover V8
Discussion
My personal view is to never use Radweld in any engine. If you have small leaks in the rad you probably have many of them and it is better to go for a recore or a recon rad. If you block the small leaks the increased running pressure may cause a major problem in a week or two (this has happened twice to me in 25 years of driving).
At my last service they told me as I collected the car that the rad had a small leak and they'd put some radweld in - bit late for me to argue. I guess it kind of worked as the radiator took 2 months to leak again (I watched it like a hawk after they reported the leak, which I could not see). The rad is now being recored as I write (pity, perfect TVR day today too). Oh well, all will be ready for the trip to the Dordogne in July (pass the suncream).
BTW, it's 4 years since the last rad was replaced - is that a record on Chimaeras? ;-)
T/.
BTW, it's 4 years since the last rad was replaced - is that a record on Chimaeras? ;-)
T/.
Unfortunately you give your car over to "professionals" and they are "in loco parentis" I guess. I've had all manner of problems with grease monkeys doing things to my cars over the years that I would never do myself.
I'm pretty resigned these days to handing over a bunch of money for someone to f
k up my car, then spend a weekend repairing the damage. All for the sake of a factory approved stamp in the service book.
And I'm not just talking TVR here, I took pride in my 24v Senator and my Audi A8 - I work long and hard to pay for these things - by invariably they come back from a main dealer service the worse for the experience.
Sadly a common definition of professional is someone who does the worst job possible for the most money they can get. Give me a dedicated amateur every time.
I'm pretty resigned these days to handing over a bunch of money for someone to f
k up my car, then spend a weekend repairing the damage. All for the sake of a factory approved stamp in the service book. And I'm not just talking TVR here, I took pride in my 24v Senator and my Audi A8 - I work long and hard to pay for these things - by invariably they come back from a main dealer service the worse for the experience.
Sadly a common definition of professional is someone who does the worst job possible for the most money they can get. Give me a dedicated amateur every time.
noticed a small rad leak recently,decided against rad weld and removed the rad(chipped paint on nosecone 
it's a tight fit).Took the rad to a local firm who pronounced it "F****D",what could be done I asked?recore they said ,but it what be expensive they said how expensive? £60 +vat(I had told them the rad was from an old V8 Land Rover I use for dragging stuff about,mention TVR and in my experience the price doubles)bit of tutting on my part, how about £50 for cash?OK they say.I then ask if was possible to fit a 4 row core inplace of the std 3 row? no problem they say.
The result is a car running cooler then ever before(no more worry about city centres or traffic jams)the best £50 I've spent.
P.S. they showed me the damaged core and over a third was blocked with RADWELD, the cooling system is one of the most important on any car,bodge it and it will cost you more in the end.
it's a tight fit).Took the rad to a local firm who pronounced it "F****D",what could be done I asked?recore they said ,but it what be expensive they said how expensive? £60 +vat(I had told them the rad was from an old V8 Land Rover I use for dragging stuff about,mention TVR and in my experience the price doubles)bit of tutting on my part, how about £50 for cash?OK they say.I then ask if was possible to fit a 4 row core inplace of the std 3 row? no problem they say.
The result is a car running cooler then ever before(no more worry about city centres or traffic jams)the best £50 I've spent.
P.S. they showed me the damaged core and over a third was blocked with RADWELD, the cooling system is one of the most important on any car,bodge it and it will cost you more in the end.
Buzzsaw
No I've a Griff 500,so rad removal will be different,one tip you could try is to put masking tape on the edges of the nosecone to stop the paint getting chipped when you lift it out,thier might be more room on a chim,but the Griff is real tight.The firm I used is in Dewsbury West Yorkshire,I don't have thier number I just dropped in on my way home from work.I could get the phone No if you needed it ,if it's not in your area check the yellow pages for radiator repairs,I'm sure you'll find someone to do the job .
No I've a Griff 500,so rad removal will be different,one tip you could try is to put masking tape on the edges of the nosecone to stop the paint getting chipped when you lift it out,thier might be more room on a chim,but the Griff is real tight.The firm I used is in Dewsbury West Yorkshire,I don't have thier number I just dropped in on my way home from work.I could get the phone No if you needed it ,if it's not in your area check the yellow pages for radiator repairs,I'm sure you'll find someone to do the job .
'invariably they come back from a main dealer service the worse for the experience.'
Whichever make of car I run, I always open account facilities with my nearest dealer - this is not so much for the 30 day credit, but so that I have some leverage if they get anything wrong. Then they have to make it right in order to get paid.
Whichever make of car I run, I always open account facilities with my nearest dealer - this is not so much for the 30 day credit, but so that I have some leverage if they get anything wrong. Then they have to make it right in order to get paid.
'you don't find they treat an account like an open cheque?'
It doesn't work like that. 'Account' simply means I have 30 days to pay the bill, as opposed to having to pay in full before I can take the car. I ring up and get a quote for the service, then give them permission to proceed for that sum. If they find anything else that needs attention, they are told to ring me for approval before proceeding. If the bill comes in for more than I was advised, I wait until their credit control dept rings me, then tell them the problem and ask for a cedit note for the difference. Similarly, if I get the car back and the problem I agreed to pay to get fixed is not fixed, they have to sort it in order to get paid.
I'm self-employed and therefore assume the roles of driver, fleet manager, accounts payable, CEO and anything else. At the end of the day, it's my hard-worn loot I'm handing over and I always ensure scrupulous fairness. A good job on budget gets paid on time.
At least, that's for the BMW. The same approach doesn't seem to work for the Griff!
It doesn't work like that. 'Account' simply means I have 30 days to pay the bill, as opposed to having to pay in full before I can take the car. I ring up and get a quote for the service, then give them permission to proceed for that sum. If they find anything else that needs attention, they are told to ring me for approval before proceeding. If the bill comes in for more than I was advised, I wait until their credit control dept rings me, then tell them the problem and ask for a cedit note for the difference. Similarly, if I get the car back and the problem I agreed to pay to get fixed is not fixed, they have to sort it in order to get paid.
I'm self-employed and therefore assume the roles of driver, fleet manager, accounts payable, CEO and anything else. At the end of the day, it's my hard-worn loot I'm handing over and I always ensure scrupulous fairness. A good job on budget gets paid on time.
At least, that's for the BMW. The same approach doesn't seem to work for the Griff!
I've heard that Radweld simply coats everything, whilst Barrs seal - some sort of microfibre - simply goes round and round until it finds the hole and blocks it. Both methods are simply very temporary measures and I think if you ignore the early warning then you're asking for a roadside emergency eventually. My Griff is away having a recore at this moment!
But, Kevin, how can blocking the leak *increase* pressure to a dangerous extent? Surely it merely allows the system to pressurise back to its normal level? Or do you mean that the proper working pressure will find more faults in a weakened radiator? In which case I agree!
But, Kevin, how can blocking the leak *increase* pressure to a dangerous extent? Surely it merely allows the system to pressurise back to its normal level? Or do you mean that the proper working pressure will find more faults in a weakened radiator? In which case I agree!
quote:
But, Kevin, how can blocking the leak *increase* pressure to a dangerous extent? Surely it merely allows the system to pressurise back to its normal level? Or do you mean that the proper working pressure will find more faults in a weakened radiator? In which case I agree!
Yes, that is what I meant.
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