Speed Six and Oil
Discussion
As I'm new to these marvellous machines, but aware that the speed six can be a little delicate, can anyone give me any info on....
a) typical oil pressures. Once warmed up I see 30psi at 2k rising to 40psi at 4k rpm, is this normal ??
b) how much oil I can expect to have to feed it and how often. The manual suggests it's normal to use some.
c) how to check the oil level. I know it's level ground, engine up to temp and just switched off but do you take the dipstick reading with it resting on the top of the filer or having screwed it down ??
d) it's just had a full service, inc valves, but there is some tappet type rattle just over 2k rpm. Dealer says it's normal but anyone else agree ??
e) has all the talk about speed six reliability just made me paranoid ?? Car's done 10k miles in two years with nothing more than normal servicing (checked with original dealer and TVR, didn't think it was possible)
Any calming words welcomed.
Phockit
a) typical oil pressures. Once warmed up I see 30psi at 2k rising to 40psi at 4k rpm, is this normal ??
b) how much oil I can expect to have to feed it and how often. The manual suggests it's normal to use some.
c) how to check the oil level. I know it's level ground, engine up to temp and just switched off but do you take the dipstick reading with it resting on the top of the filer or having screwed it down ??
d) it's just had a full service, inc valves, but there is some tappet type rattle just over 2k rpm. Dealer says it's normal but anyone else agree ??
e) has all the talk about speed six reliability just made me paranoid ?? Car's done 10k miles in two years with nothing more than normal servicing (checked with original dealer and TVR, didn't think it was possible)
Any calming words welcomed.
Phockit
I've had my SP6 a year and use it as my daily transport. I've done 10K miles in a year. Apart from a few niggles it's been excellent.
To answer your points:
a) oil pressure. This isn't unreasonable, although I think my engine has slightly higher pressure.
b) it does use oil. I check weekly or after a long run. It's vitally important to do this. Quite honestly, there doesn't seem to be any pattern to the oil usage.
c) I don't screw the dipstick down. This is likely to give you an under-reading so is the safe option.
d) I have some tappet noise as well between certain rev ranges. I wouldn't worry unduly.
e) my understanding is that the early SP6 engines had significant problems. Mine certainly seems to be sorted. I believe in regular use and great sympathy when cold.
All the best!
To answer your points:
a) oil pressure. This isn't unreasonable, although I think my engine has slightly higher pressure.
b) it does use oil. I check weekly or after a long run. It's vitally important to do this. Quite honestly, there doesn't seem to be any pattern to the oil usage.
c) I don't screw the dipstick down. This is likely to give you an under-reading so is the safe option.
d) I have some tappet noise as well between certain rev ranges. I wouldn't worry unduly.
e) my understanding is that the early SP6 engines had significant problems. Mine certainly seems to be sorted. I believe in regular use and great sympathy when cold.
All the best!
Have had a new speed 6 since Sept 01, not a fill of oil used up to 1000 mile service, and a still not a drop appears to have been used up to 2300 miles. Thought I had low oil pressure when idle, sitting at 10, but both manual and engineer said fine. Like you when driving and varying revs, pressure fluctuates between late 20s and mid 40's. No other problems to date.
I've run a Speed 6 for about 14 months now (we won't go into the problems !)... but as for the oil it doesn't really seem to use any.
I used to check every week as suggested in the manual but now I just do it once a month.
Oil pressure on an S6:
Should start off fairly high (40/50) dropping off until engine running temp is reached, after that the oil pressure should read about 10 /1000revs at lower rev ranges.
So if you're doing 3000 revs, oil should read about 30.
I used to check every week as suggested in the manual but now I just do it once a month.
Oil pressure on an S6:
Should start off fairly high (40/50) dropping off until engine running temp is reached, after that the oil pressure should read about 10 /1000revs at lower rev ranges.
So if you're doing 3000 revs, oil should read about 30.
I've run 2 now over the last 3 years.
The 1st (original Sp6 dealer demo) never actually went bang on me, but had to go back to factory because timing chain tensioner (internal in engine) needed 'doing' - but it had the damper fitted etc at the same time. Used a bit of oil now and again and oil pressure was same as you mentioned.
2nd one (2yrs old now and 8k miles) had starter motor replaced at 14mile mark, valves cleared at 6k service, and an air sensor re-connected at some point between. Doesn't seem to use any oil at all at the moment and per mail above is 50psi at start-up and once fully warm falls down to ~40 at anything over 3500rpm. However I use the gauge as an indicator rather than an accurate number and the garage have always been happy with the pressure readings they get.
The 1st (original Sp6 dealer demo) never actually went bang on me, but had to go back to factory because timing chain tensioner (internal in engine) needed 'doing' - but it had the damper fitted etc at the same time. Used a bit of oil now and again and oil pressure was same as you mentioned.
2nd one (2yrs old now and 8k miles) had starter motor replaced at 14mile mark, valves cleared at 6k service, and an air sensor re-connected at some point between. Doesn't seem to use any oil at all at the moment and per mail above is 50psi at start-up and once fully warm falls down to ~40 at anything over 3500rpm. However I use the gauge as an indicator rather than an accurate number and the garage have always been happy with the pressure readings they get.
On the subject of Tappet Noise (Phockit's point d - April 1st), I've just bought a Cerbera Speed Six (it's just under 1000 miles, which makes a lot of tappet noise (constantly). The dealer said that this was normal. Is that right?
Also, when pulling away from cold start and occasionally while driving when warm, there's a loud clunk on underside (sounds like large stone hitting underside - except there's no stone!). Has anyone experienced this or am I likely to be the first in history?
Be grateful for any reassurance.
Razor
Also, when pulling away from cold start and occasionally while driving when warm, there's a loud clunk on underside (sounds like large stone hitting underside - except there's no stone!). Has anyone experienced this or am I likely to be the first in history?
Be grateful for any reassurance.
Razor
Razor,
Engine should sound really clackety when cold, but should reduce in noise when warm after engine parts have expanded. When I got my car back after first 1000 mile service, thought my engine sounded noisy. Took it back and the mechanic told me the exhaust was knocking on the underside. Apparently quite common. Hope this helps.
Engine should sound really clackety when cold, but should reduce in noise when warm after engine parts have expanded. When I got my car back after first 1000 mile service, thought my engine sounded noisy. Took it back and the mechanic told me the exhaust was knocking on the underside. Apparently quite common. Hope this helps.
Is that a green speed six, by any chance, from a dealer in the maidstone area ??
They defintely sound different when cold (like an old chevy truck ??) but once up to temp settle down. The tappet noise on my car is not intrusive (I'm just paranoid at present) and only at certain rpm.
Is the clunk as the drive train takes up the slack (i.e. pulling away, getting back on the power) or as you go over bumps and stuff (see my post on klunky suspension) ??
They defintely sound different when cold (like an old chevy truck ??) but once up to temp settle down. The tappet noise on my car is not intrusive (I'm just paranoid at present) and only at certain rpm.
Is the clunk as the drive train takes up the slack (i.e. pulling away, getting back on the power) or as you go over bumps and stuff (see my post on klunky suspension) ??
Cammy / Phockit,
Thanks for replies.
My cerb is silver.
I must admit to being a bit paranoid about noises etc. I haven't had a car that makes tappet noise since I was about 17. I'll get the exhaust checked when it goes in for its 1000 mile service. The clunk seems to happen both when pulling away and simply when cruising at about 40 mph.
Funny - the things that would have made me go ballistic with other cars that I've owned only make me 'concerned' at the well-being of my Cerbera - just shows you how amazing the car is (even with imperfections).
Thanks again,
Razor
P.S. do you think that it is wise to run the car on ordinary unleaded or should it be run on super for ordinary use etc? The dealer said it only needs super for track days etc.
Thanks for replies.
My cerb is silver.
I must admit to being a bit paranoid about noises etc. I haven't had a car that makes tappet noise since I was about 17. I'll get the exhaust checked when it goes in for its 1000 mile service. The clunk seems to happen both when pulling away and simply when cruising at about 40 mph.
Funny - the things that would have made me go ballistic with other cars that I've owned only make me 'concerned' at the well-being of my Cerbera - just shows you how amazing the car is (even with imperfections).
Thanks again,
Razor
P.S. do you think that it is wise to run the car on ordinary unleaded or should it be run on super for ordinary use etc? The dealer said it only needs super for track days etc.
Handbook and dealer both say normal unleaded on the road and super on the track. The label by the filler says super only, but I just put that in with the other contradictions that litter the manual.
Am just about to try Shell's Opitmax to see if I can notice any difference, will let you know how I get on. Have been using normal ul since I got the car (1000 miles so far).
Am just about to try Shell's Opitmax to see if I can notice any difference, will let you know how I get on. Have been using normal ul since I got the car (1000 miles so far).
I have used super unleaded since i got the car, which was given the thumbs up by the mechanic. No problems. I think all modern-ish performance cars should use SUL. Even my wifes Audi TT manual says to use SUL.
As for optimax, don't know. IMO would not like to change since I am using SUL. (Paronoid in 'upsetting' a well running car).
Cammy
>> Edited by cammy on Tuesday 9th April 18:34
As for optimax, don't know. IMO would not like to change since I am using SUL. (Paronoid in 'upsetting' a well running car).
Cammy
>> Edited by cammy on Tuesday 9th April 18:34
You've paid out upwards of £40k for a fabulous car and you're going to skimp on Super vs regular ? just think of it as a pint less a week to drink.
I believe you will notice the performance difference more on the road than the track, as you'll be using normal driving rev-ranges. I've always used Super until Optimax came along (although my nearest garage is Shell anyway) - I now actively look out for Shell garages and use in both the Cerbera and M5.
I believe you will notice the performance difference more on the road than the track, as you'll be using normal driving rev-ranges. I've always used Super until Optimax came along (although my nearest garage is Shell anyway) - I now actively look out for Shell garages and use in both the Cerbera and M5.
I don't see using normal ul is skimping, if using sul doesn't make any difference isn't that just throwing an extra pint a week down the drain.
Isn't the difference between normal and super just octane levels and you'll only get a benefit from using the higer if the ECU can do anything different with it ?? (Can the Cerb ECU adjust to different octances, I thought not but some of the tuscans do have selectable maps)
Optimax is even higher octane but that's not the reason I was going to try it - it's alledged to be cleaner/prevent carbon build ups, etc
Phockit (not wanting to start an octane war)
P.S. I'm a lot happier with my oil pressure et al now, thanks.
Isn't the difference between normal and super just octane levels and you'll only get a benefit from using the higer if the ECU can do anything different with it ?? (Can the Cerb ECU adjust to different octances, I thought not but some of the tuscans do have selectable maps)
Optimax is even higher octane but that's not the reason I was going to try it - it's alledged to be cleaner/prevent carbon build ups, etc
Phockit (not wanting to start an octane war)
P.S. I'm a lot happier with my oil pressure et al now, thanks.
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